few questions on my 7m assembly..

mazzer

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i just read this whole thread http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=5631 ,and had a few questions ..

so, i'm tearing down my block to deck it for the MHG.. bottom end has never been touched, and has good oil pressure. 104k on the ticker.. would it be stupid to use the OEM main/rod bearings ,and rings? i was told if the cyl walls still had crosshatchings on them ,and no blow-by ,to leave the rings and hone alone.. i'm not trying to cheap out, just like the idea of keeping some of the parts toyota wanted in there,in there. idk..

i may come up with other questions after i eat..



thanks in advance guys!
 

mazzer

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IJ. said:
Mazz: It all needs to be inspected and measured.

While to the naked eye it may look ok often it's not.


sounds good.

another thing.. this is the second time the head has been resurfaced.(it was baked w/ a fininsh cut the first time) since i'm removing material from the block and a second time for the head, i assume the machine shop can measure the two so i know exactly what size HG to get? ( i dont want to change the distance from the crank to cams)
 

IJ.

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You'll need to measure the head when it's done to figure out how much has been removed then add that to 1.37mm for the final gasket size.

I posted the stock Head size awhile back but can't remember it off the top of my head sorry!
 

mazzer

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jdub said:
The stock head thickness is 116mm from deck to valve cover sealing surface ;)

that's from the deck of the block to the top of the head? is the 1.37mm be what the head gasket is compressed ?

sorry guys this is my first engine build, bear with me .. :D
 

jdub

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The head deck to the valve cover surface...1.37mm is the thickness compressed.

Here's what you do:
- Measure the head thickness after it's machined again
- Substract that thickness from 116mm
- Add the result to 1.37mm
- Add the amount of material removed from the block deck
- You now have the required thickness for your MHG to retain stock compression.
 

mazzer

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st.louis,mo
alright. block and head are back from machine shop. my MHG should show up sometime today and had a question.. its a Titan gasket (cometic from what i understand) and was wondering if everyone coats them with sealer or is it something that's preference only?
 

mazzer

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IJ. said:
Mazz: No goo for a NEW MHG ;)


no goo in the new. got it.. :D i was hoping you would chime in

i figured it wouldn't be a good idea, with 3 fresh surfaces, but read about it often.. didn't put together that they were on their second chance.


rivets,eh? interesting.. apparently FEDEX dropped the ball on my overnight shipping, by not shipping the head gasket out until today,so i won't see it till tomorrow (crosses fingers) are these something that will have to be filed down or modified in any way?


thanks guys..
 

mazzer

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IJ. said:
Mazz: You use a small smear of Silicone where the Timing case meets the Block and that's it :)
(After trimming the gasket that sticks up with a sharp scraper)


gotcha. what are your feelings on retorque with the mhg?
 

IJ.

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3>4 heat cycles with NO BOOST, by heat cycles I mean get it up to full running temp (go for a drive) and let it cool to stone cold = 1 heat cycle.

Then do the retorque by "back cracking" 1 nut then pull it back to torque.
(you'll know what I mean by "back crack" when you pull the wrench the nut will CRACK as the tension comes off you don't need to go any further than this)

Repeat for all the studs in sequence.
 

mazzer

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IJ. said:
3>4 heat cycles with NO BOOST, by heat cycles I mean get it up to full running temp (go for a drive) and let it cool to stone cold = 1 heat cycle.

Then do the retorque by "back cracking" 1 nut then pull it back to torque.
(you'll know what I mean by "back crack" when you pull the wrench the nut will CRACK as the tension comes off you don't need to go any further than this)

Repeat for all the studs in sequence.


you're the man.. thanks