Few problems

[SkyHawk Ecks]

Just dropped in a new motor.

Anyway we took off the charcoal canister and removed the stock BOV since I put an HKS SSQV on. First off, I know the clutch needs to be bled as it's very stiff, but we're still able to start the car... ONLY when it's being jumped. We left the car jumping the Supra running for a good 20 minutes. As soon as we took the cables off and tried to start the car again, it just clicked and all the lights in side the dash and whatnot died.

When the car is actually on, it'll first idle at 1700, then start shaking real bad while jumping between 500-800. The boost gauge we put on reads around 20 vaccuum when at 1700, then gets lower as the RPMs get lower. Ending at 10 when it's bouncing inbetween 500-800.

I understand the two ports from the bypass need to be capped off. What else would cause this? And why does it need to be jumped to even start?!

Also, where are all the grounds exactly? I know I have like four hooked up... the one from the back of the head to the firewall, the two underneath on the tranny, and the one under/near the intake manifold. I've also got a fifth wire thing that looks like a ground, because of the big circle (for lack of a better word), on the end. It also has a smaller circle at the other end, and the wire is yellow. Ideas?

 

[shaeff]

your battery is toasted. i just had the same problem. hell, my car wouldnt even idle for longer than 30 seconds. i put a new battery in there, and made sure my charging system was up to par, and bam, now it idles, and starts within 3 cranks of the motor.

get a new battery then start to diagnose other problems. check your codes, too. the link is in my sig

-shaeff

 

[SkyHawk Ecks]

Yeah I got a new battery, also starts within a few cranks.

The night before I didn't let it idle long (wouldn't anyway) because we were missing the radiator cap, misplaced that damn thing! So I bought a new one and let it idle a bit. I found a connector near and below the ECU that was unplugged (white 2 prong) so I connected that. It idled for way longer before dying. Anyway I do believe it is the timing and that needs to be corrected. I also have a coolant hose that we forgot to connect, the one that goes from below the bottom of the intake manifold to under the throttle body. I heard hissing from there as well, might be able to find the source of the vac leak if the coolant hose being unplugged isn't it.

Still gotta bleed the clutch, but one thing at a time eh?

 

[mkiiSupraMan18]

I would think a stiff clutch would be good.......... it's bad when they go to the floor without resistance..... or am I reading this wrong?

 

[shaeff]

I would think a stiff clutch would be good.......... it's bad when they go to the floor without resistance..... or am I reading this wrong?

i concur. a "soft" clutch usually means you have air in the line...

-shaeff

 

[SkyHawk Ecks]

Well I'm an idiot, I was actually depressing the brake line, haha. But the clutch pedal is absolutely "loose" for lack of a better term, so I need to bleed that. Anyway...

Okay the timing may be correct, it's just a vaccuum leak around the intake manifold that's not letting the car idle. It might be the entire intake manifold itself but it doesn't sound like it. The hissing is near the EGR stuff but I don't feel anything when I feel around that area. I was told to try and spray some starter fluid on the seams of the intake manifold to see if the engine picks up, and if it does, the intake manifold needs to get another gasket. It was a brand new Toyota one too...

But I have a few more problems now. When revving the engine up a bit a lot of blue smoke comes out, and I have to get like 3 exhaust side holes retapped, they're stripped as hell and the exhaust stuf just rotates.

When the old engine was in the car, it was spewing out blue smoke like no other (two sides of Cyl # 3 were scraped) so I'm hoping the blue smoke is just the remainder of all the stuff in the exhaust caught in the cat converter. For now I need to find the cause of the vaccuum leak.

 

[SkyHawk Ecks]

Alright, the leak has nothing to do with the intake manifold or the throttle body. The hissing is coming from near the back like around the EGR stuff. What a bitch... Still not sure where though..

 

[suprastanger507mgte]

Alright, the leak has nothing to do with the intake manifold or the throttle body. The hissing is coming from near the back like around the EGR stuff. What a bitch... Still not sure where though..

Maybe your egr plate is not tightened properly??

Also check the injector seals. Sometimes they can leak like that too .

As for the blue smoke, is this engine a fresh rebuild??

 

[SkyHawk Ecks]

Maybe your egr plate is not tightened properly??

Also check the injector seals. Sometimes they can leak like that too .

As for the blue smoke, is this engine a fresh rebuild??

We didn't touch the EGR plate on this engine. But now that I think about it the bolts might be loose. The injector seals are new, Juhanis put them on for me. Anyway the blue smoke is just all the left over oil from the last engine, when it was just spewing oil like crazy because of that damn #3. I know that one of the EGR lines or plates or whatever may not be on correctly, Juhanis told me that the one on the intake manifold doesn't have the right gasket on it, since he put it on. I may just block that off.

Though I'm just thinking of completely blocking off the EGR altogether...