Emissions Test.. How to pass?

[canadianbacon]

My car won't pass Aircare. It fails on everything. I need to dial it cause it seems to be running rich, after I read the plugs. My cat is a high flow Magnaflow and I have a Pacesetter header with an O2 sensor which is new. The sad thing is this engine has 2500KM on it! The only thing that it could be would be the cat, because I bought it used. Don't get me wrong the car goes! I use Chevron 92 octane. Is there something I could just stick in the tank, or just retard the timing. I can't by insurance if it does not pass. Sugesstions? LMK :nono:

 

[jetjock]

What are the numbers? What mods on the car? I also need help from someone like Grim as I don't know what kind of test you guys use up there.

 

[BosoMKII]

Retarding the timing won't help. 90% of the time there are no tricks to passing smog. Your engine just needs to be running right. Start with the basic maintenance stuff, like spark plugs. Are they new? Is your timing to factory spec?

 

[johnathan1]

my car just passed smog...legally! YAY!!!...anyway, it wouldn't pass before, because one of the wires (the main one) to the o2 was short because of a bad connection, and would work intermittently... so check your wiring, change your oil, do a tune-up...etc.

 

[Big Wang Bandit]

I almost failed smog becasuse one of my spark plug wires wasn't connected all the way. Heh. My car was also labled a gross polluter in 2004(previous owners). I have an exhaust leak too(makes it sound rice :wtc: ) Just check things that would seem obvious is what I am getting at I guess.

 

[canadianbacon]

The engine is completely brand new rebuilt. Yes, brand new NGK plugs and wires. The only other thing I can think of is there are after market cams. I think they are Shrick Cams. They are definitly more responsive than stock. Also from day one, the engine light has come on after about 2 minutes. What could this be?? You would figure a new engine= automatic pass...I have built two other engines both completely stock, and they both passed. Is it that stupid header??? LMK thanks for the feedback.

 

[jetjock]

Again, unless you post the emissions numbers there is very little anyone can do to tell you what the problem might be. And no, a new engine doesn't mean it should pass. In my experience it's the contrary.

And if the MIL is coming on we need to know what codes are being set. You're asking for help but posting none of the information needed to help you.

 

[BosoMKII]

So you have a header an no cat right there right? Is that a cat or just a resonator? I have mine off I can look at it tomorrow. If you still have the stock exhaust parts it won't hurt to put them back. Where is your primary o2 sensor? Like Johnathan1 mentioned, that could be a factor. Your cams aren't helping, but I doubt they are the problem. A new engine or a 200K engine doesn't matter, its the running condition that does. Tune up time. Make sure all your smog gear is working. Check the codes your ECU is throwing. This is all general maintenance stuff and applies to any car.
I have seen bottles of "guaranteed to pass smog" gas tank additives at the auto parts store. I don't suppose it would hurt to try.
What have you done so far?

 

[johnathan1]

hmm, this thread sems very familiar... remember "turbo stopped working"??lol

 

[jetjock]

Yeah, "help, car broke" posts are frustrating because of the need to play 20 questions. The guy doesn't give emissions number or diagnostic codes so I guess we're supposed to deduce them for ourselves.

Those "guaranteed to pass smog" additives almost always contain polyamines. Polyamines are the best injector and combustion deposit cleaners out there (it's what Chevron Techron is, they invented the stuff) but they won't repair busted emissions systems or an engine that isn't running right. They work pretty well for routine maintenace though. Only a handful of over the counter cleaners use polyamines btw, the rest are pretty much snake oil.

 

[johnathan1]

canadianbacon: You MUST answer the following questions, in order for us to help you in any way shape or form...

1. Is your timing set to 10 BTDC?
2. What mods does the car have?
3. What are your failed smog numbers? (Amounts of each pollutant)
4. What codes is the car throwing?
5. Does the car seem to run right?

Also, don't take your car in to be tested if the MIL is on...that's an automatic fail, well, at least it is here...

Give your car a thourough look-down for anything that looks out of the ordinary, get the answers to those questions, report back, and we will likely be able to help you!!

 

[canadianbacon]

Here are the results: Hydrocarbons 252 ppm, pass is 188ppm, Carbon Monoxide 7.48%, pass is 1.22%. Oxides of Nitrogen 193ppm, pass is 1817ppm. This was the only thing it passed on the Driving Test. Here is the Idle Test: Hadrocarbons 402ppm, a pass is 380ppm, and finally Carbon Monoxide, 7.86% and a pass would be 4.32%. Now the Mods:2.5 inch exhaust Pacesetter Header with new O2 sensor, Magnaflow Cat,(I think it is toast cause I got it used and it is making a rattle noise.),MHG with Shrick cams, K&N drop in I cut the stock box to allow more air, and a stainless intake.I have iridium NGK plugs with Blue NGK wires. Since day one the engine light has stayed ON:nono:. They car really F--ckin goes!! So when you say check codes what and how to do? Like I said early in the thread I have rebuilt 2 other NA's and have no problems. They both run tight.All I know is it is something stupid and I have to insure my car in 12 days. Give me some tips boys!!! Thanks again for the feedback. I really don't want to pack it in with this car yet. I have just bought a turbo from Cali and plan on building my first turbo, but I really love this car.LMK ASAP. Ps what is MIL?:aigo: I'm thinkin Motor Interior Light??LOL!!!

 

[BosoMKII]

Ps what is MIL?:aigo: I'm thinkin Motor Interior Light??LOL!!!

Yep. 'Cauz pistions need to see where they are going! :biglaugh: j/k man. MIL = malfunction indicator lamp

Here is how to check = http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/library/TSRM/fi/FI_023.html

Your results say you are running rich. I wonder if it has to do with your o2 sensor placement?
Or, knock sensor retarding timing?

Those are my top guesses at this stage.

 

[canadianbacon]

Thanks for the diagram. Very helpful!! Also, I was thinking of the O2 sensor placement. It is near the end of the header before the cat.

 

[jetjock]

No wonder the car goes good. I bet the fuel economy sucks though. The MIL is what boso said. It's what lay people refer to as the check engine light. He's also right about the engine running rich, just look at the CO. It would've been helpful to know the O2 and CO2 levels but it's clear the mixture is rich. The NOx levels are down because CO is so high. As an aside I can't believe Canada allows such high passing levels. Lucky you. What they consider passing would fail in much of the US and be laughable in California.

You have big problems. There is no way your lambda loop is in control. If it were everything would be way below even the passing levels. That said, whatever is wrong is far outside the ability of the O2 sensor to correct it even if it is OK, which is likely is.

I'll bet you have multiple dianostic codes but the problem can't be the O2 sensor because the engine should cleaner than what you're showing even with the sensor disconnected. You may get some O2 sensor related codes when you check but the problem is obviously not in the O2 sensor.

Check the fuel pressure, AFM, intake, and timing to start with and report back with the codes. If that ca wasn't toast before it very likely is now. If you've been running the like this for a long time the cat is probably destroyed. I also wouldn't be surprised that once you fix the rich mixture the NOx will rise up and bite you. It's a common problem in these situations.

Based on what you're writing it appears you have neither the skills nor equipment to troubleshoot this on your own. If you're pressed for time you'd better get it to a mechanic or emissions shop pronto. And be don't be surprised if you need a new cat after the other issues are resolved.

What do you mean the MIL has been on since day one? Are you saying you've been driving the car like that since you bought it? You can't be serious.

 

[johnathan1]

wow...this is going to be a bit tougher than I thought...

ok, those levels are incredibly high! In california, the limit for HC is 106ppm, CO is 0.70%, and NOx is 762...my car got 30ppm HC, 0.01% CO, and 132ppm NOx!! Damn, there must be something seriously wrong with yourcar to get numbers that high...

Things you need to do:

1. Check codes
2. Replace Cat.
3. Check timing

Or if your are on a very limited time schedule, just do what JJ said, and take it to a shop. Either way you should still do these basic things...it could turn out to be something very simple...you never know.

 

[jetjock]

Johnathan, your car is clean alright. Those numbers show an engine in tight closed loop control. Either that or you have great catalytic efficiency. It's likely you have both.

I'm assuming the limits you posted were taken from your last test report. Did you know in Cali those limits are based on, and change with, weight? When the ESI system weighs the back end to calculate the load to be applied it also uses that info to adjust the limits.

Making the car as light as possible before the test will squeek you by if you're running near a limit. Yank the spare tire for example. Your car doesn't need this sort of fudging but it's nice to know.

 

[canadianbacon]

Thanks guys... Now I feel really F--cked! How the heck do you check codes?? And yes... I have driven with this light on since day one. The car originally came with no harness, ECU, and engine. I pieced all this stuff together. The other two engines I built were complete and everything worked out perfect. Do I need to take it to a diagnostic machine. I do not have one cause I am a hillbilly mechanic in my back yard!! LOL Thanks again for the quick replies:icon_conf It feels really bad that I can not figure this stuff out. I definitely would not by a car that is not complete again.

 

[johnathan1]

JJ: I did not know that about the weight...

Canadianbacon: You do not need a diagnostic machine to check your codes...just a paper clip (no, i'm not joking), did you look at the link that BosoMKII left you??????? You need to do this...it will tell you why your MIL (check engine light) is on...and ultimately, why your car won't pass smog...

 

[canadianbacon]

:aigo:

JJ: I did not know that about the weight...

Canadianbacon: You do not need a diagnostic machine to check your codes...just a paper clip (no, i'm not joking), did you look at the link that BosoMKII left you??????? You need to do this...it will tell you why your MIL (check engine light) is on...and ultimately, why your car won't pass smog...

OK! Done...Engine light blinked 4 X then 2 X... then a pause.... 5X then 2X Is there a section to find the codes?:aigo: :aigo: :aigo: