Electric Fan

[SySt]

I am looking for an electric fan setup for my LS6/T56 setup. I have a huge radiator. I don't remember the dimensions but it barely fits between both frame rails. It also barely fits from the top of the original radiator to the bottom of the front subframe and is 3" thick. I don't need any kind of fan when i'm above lets say 20mph. However I am sure a fan would be great at stop lights. I am looking for 1000CFM+ ratings. I have found many fans on ebay above my spec for about $35.00 shipped. I am just a little skeptical about buying them off EBay as it seems I can get the same fans from Summit Racing for double the price. Does anyone have experience buying EBay fans?

Now remember I do have an accurate temp guage and this is NOT my daily driver so I am willing to take chances. And yes, I am cheap. I have a fast bike already and I am a poor college student.

 

[Poodles]

Most aftermarket fans in my experience have been to be blunt...rubbish.

Go to a junkyard and start looking for fans you can use as most OEM fans where meant to last 100K miles at least...

 

[SySt]

I understand what you are saying and I will take it to heart. However I do still want to hear others' experience.

 

[Poodles]

They'd also be cheaper

 

[SySt]

LOL, i'd agree with you if I didn't have my ME classes to think about. Between school, work, sex, and general life I have no time to spare.

 

[benchwarmer]

Maxima e-fans flow 1200-1500 CFM with a maximum Amp draw of 22.5A. Taurus fans move 2500-3800 CFM but pull 46.5A on high setting. You'd probably need a bigger alternator.

 

[grimreaper]

mark 8 fan too, bit bigger then the taurus fan but a bigger alternator would be inorder.

it pulls huge amounts of air and monster amps so your wiring better be A++++

 

[Rennat]

having an e-fan suck out 22amps at full speed... uhh... thats not what i would call ideal.

your just looking for a nice 12'' fan... i used a single 10'' e-fan for cooling during the 100+ days on a non-turbo supra.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Part...713|39:1|65:12|240:1318&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245

 

[zambini]

e-fans only pull amps at speed if they arent wired to an electric thremostat (like 25 bucks from summit.) it makes the wiring process much lengthier, but its worth it not to put the constant bog on the engine.. plus, he might not have clearance for a clutch fan up front running a radiator like that. also, a friend of mine has an ls1 formula firebird and it has i think daul electric fans. looking at them, theyre really low profile (1.5", maybe 2" wide total) so you may want to look into f-body cars at junkyards, especially late model ones with ls series engines.

like others have said, those SHO taurus 16" fans are pretty ubiquitously used in the hot rodding world for e-fan jobs. i know the taurus fan is like 5" wide with the stock shroud, even tho you can cut them down, and the shroud is pretty beefy.

i cant believe youre doing an LS6 swap!! to hell with an ls1! lol that sounds ridiculous man. good luck! looking at the photos in your thread, you are working in a TIGHT space up front.. id really like to see more pictures.


aaron

 

[QWIKSTRIKE]

Maxima e-fans flow 1200-1500 CFM with a maximum Amp draw of 22.5A. Taurus fans move 2500-3800 CFM but pull 46.5A on high setting. You'd probably need a bigger alternator.

Alledgedly Taurus fans flow 44-4500cfms, I have one that pulls like a frieght train. 40.00. Ford contour fans work well also. I have used them with much succcess

 

[benchwarmer]

That's an ungodly amount of air. Screw the engine, just pull the car with the fan. Bear in mind, though, that CFM rating are with no load. Most manufacturers say that CFMs will drop between 15% and 20% when pulling air through the radiator.

 

[zambini]

guhhreat suggsehzz!!!

my clutch fan is worn out, so ill be junk yarding ford fans here shortly..

 

[QWIKSTRIKE]

mark 8 fan too, bit bigger then the taurus fan but a bigger alternator would be inorder.

it pulls huge amounts of air and monster amps so your wiring better be A++++

You better have 10 gauge wiring for these fans. Smaller gauge wiring gets too hot. You must also buy relays. I bought 2 80 amp 12volt relays for 13.92 shipped. The rest is in the wiring, and you may need to get a higher output altertnator for idle. My Wolf V500 has battery voltage compensation so I am able to balance the draw of power by having my tune The GREAT CHEVYEATER take care of the voltage spikes.

 

[figgie]

e-fans only pull amps at speed if they arent wired to an electric thremostat (like 25 bucks from summit.)

Say what?

Basic electronics man. A DC motor pulls the most amps when it is at rest as the torque at 0 rpm is the greatest when current is applied to the motor. The start up amperage is staggering (usually in the order of 4x the running current). Once the DC motor is running it sustain amperage is based on a couple of dimensions that include, how many number of turns on the rotors, the gauge of the wire which includes if it is one wire or multiple wires and how strong the magnets are. Luckily this is not the technical forum so no need to lambast you but keep that in mind for next time.

Syst

electric fans. There is enough room between the frame rails to stuff a big ole Flex-a-lite 292

http://www.flex-a-lite.com/auto/html/27inch-electric.html

The slim-line crap that is used in our cars as a "upgrade" is niether an upgrade nor would i depend on it. Even up here in MN AND with that much displacement.

 

[92nsx]

Find a elec. fan from a CTS-V (LS6 is OE on them) off ebay of craigs list or something.

 

[QWIKSTRIKE]

Say what?

Basic electronics man. A DC motor pulls the most amps when it is at rest as the torque at 0 rpm is the greatest when current is applied to the motor. The start up amperage is staggering (usually in the order of 4x the running current). Once the DC motor is running it sustain amperage is based on a couple of dimensions that include, how many number of turns on the rotors, the gauge of the wire which includes if it is one wire or multiple wires and how strong the magnets are. Luckily this is not the technical forum so no need to lambast you but keep that in mind for next time.

Syst

electric fans. There is enough room between the frame rails to stuff a big ole Flex-a-lite 292

http://www.flex-a-lite.com/auto/html/27inch-electric.html

The slim-line crap that is used in our cars as a "upgrade" is niether an upgrade nor would i depend on it. Even up here in MN AND with that much displacement.

Agreed Figgie....

 

[zambini]

figgie,

apologies for misinformation. all i meant was that wiring in an electric thermostat will keep the electric fans from being on constantly, so that they arent bogging the engine/alternator down the entire time youre driving.

excuse my ignorance, but are you saying that in order to overcome some kind of coefficient of static friction, it pulls more amps to START turning the motor, or are you saying that at REST, the motor is pulling more amps than when it is running?

all i was talking about was whether it was on or off. thats 'basic electronics' to me lol


:::EDIT:::

i just realized the original post i was replying to was speaking about the FAN being "at speed", not the CAR, as i took it.

but for real if you feel like typing it out, im always down to learn something if my post still doesnt make sense. and none of this is to be taken as sarcasm.. im genuinely concerned about being misinformative.

 

[Poodles]

As I wrote in another thread...

Going to have to state this all over again...

As you can't have perfect efficency in converting energy, in a system with electric fans it's converting mechanical to electrical, and then back to mechanical. There is power loss there.

"The rule of thumb is that the horsepower drain on the engine is twice the number of kilowatts produced. For example, if a 100-amp alternator is charging a 12-volt system at full capacity, it’s producing 1,200 watts, or 1.2 kilowatts. Therefore, it steals 2.4 horsepower from the engine."

One of these days I'm going to do a dyno run without my stock fan on just to prove this issue. It's not going to bea taking enough power to make a difference. It's like people talking about running electric waterpumps and electric everything else. Most of the time when an OEM maker uses an electric accesory it's because of packaging issues (FWD cars can't run a normal fan, ect). When a race car uses electic accesories, it's because they run them off a battery and completely unload the operation from the engine.

It's like people talking about using electric superchargers. Have you SEEN the size of the electric motors they use to test them? Seriously, you're not going to beat the laws of physics...

 

[figgie]

...excuse my ignorance, but are you saying that in order to overcome some kind of coefficient of static friction, it (being the DC Motor) pulls more amps to START turning the motor,

This is correct

A DC motor current will always be highest when the motor is at zero. At the very instant current is applied, it will be at its highest current. Let say that you jammed the motor so even with the power applied to it, it will not turn. Well, the current will still be extremly high until the motor turns OR it dies. Usually when it jams up, it dies

Once the motor starts to turn, as the RPM increase, the current will lower until it reaches it's max RPM.

 

[viper92086]

my vote are the dual fan setup from a 03 stratus. i compared them to a taurus fan on high and they are about the same except the stratus fans have a larger coverage/shroud