Easy Oil Pan removal?

Cedrock15

Cedrock15

The Sarcasm Specialist
Sep 29, 2005
126
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39
Bucks County, PA
Hey guys ive been rained out the past 2 weekends and need to do alot this saturday (compression test, egr plate tighten, minor starter work with it left in car, and oil change). One major thing I need to do is change the oil pan gasket, which looks like a PITA to do. http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/library/TSRM/lu/LU_07.html I know everyone has a shorter/more effective way to doing car jobs, and wanted to know what process you all use to get the oil pan out without taking out plenty of parts, also want to know if gasket maker is recommended? Thanks!
 
T

Turbo Targa

New Member
Sep 1, 2005
115
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Next time I have to do a head gasket on one of these I am just going to pull the motor. It would have been so much easier to just do it that way then the whole project in the car. I have spent the last two after noons just trying to plug stuff up with my big old hands, and dropping stuff under the car that I have to go get.

I am now in the "pull her out every time" club :)
 
siman

siman

Lifetime Ban
Mar 31, 2005
1,371
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Murfreesboro, TN
www.cardomain.com
I have been in your exact situation.

PULL THE MOTOR AND TRANNY TOGETHER...takes less than 4 hours ( with 2 or more people).

lowering the subframe is beyond retarded in the back yard....thats like 500lbs of metal to balance while your are under the car..not my cup of tea..LOL

my oil pan was leaking because of a cheap gasket I got from ebay....so I just pulled the motor and tranny again and fixed some things in the process!

good luck,

Jonathan
 
S

Satan

Supramania Contributor
Mar 31, 2005
1,594
0
36
Tampa
What gasket maker stuff is recommended (GrimJack)?

I hear alot about it, but not any name brand or if it's the Toyota FIPG stuff (which I never heard of leaking)...

I got one of those cork gaskets with my rebuild kit, but wouldn't recommend using it on our Sups. They are easy enuff to change on a smallblock Chevy, but definitely not on a 7M.

Pull the engine and seal the pan like these guys tell you... can't go wrong.

Fixing the oilpan leak is one of those "while you are there" things.... rear main seal, etc. Anything that you can do easier/better while it's all out. Don't be in a rush.
 
tte

tte

Breaking In - in progress
Mar 30, 2005
940
0
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Northern California
I use the same as Grimjack...that high temperature copper coating...when I was rebuilding my engine I asked Toyota for their oil pan sealant they told me it cost like 30 something dollar for a small tube...
I wonder what is in it that makes it expensive?

Cheers,
Roy
 
sethron71

sethron71

Authorized Vendor
Jul 19, 2005
871
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Las Vegas, NV
www.SethIngham.com
DO not pull the whole motor and tranny to do this. It takes like 8 or 10 bolts to drop the subframe and raise the motor. All you need are two jacks and some jack stands. First you support the motor, easily done under crank pully in front. Undo the motor mount bolts and roll stop. The put another jack under the subframe in the center and two jack stands spread out enough for you to get between them when working. Make sure you take as much brake line slack as possible and undo the tops of the spring perches(the 3 bolts under the hood on each wheel well) Then undo the six bolts that hold the subframe up and and lower it down to your jackstands. Then jack the front up as high as it will allow you to go without having to undo any wiring and hoses 4-6". THen undo the 26 nuts and bolts and pop-er loose. It will still be a very tight squeeze but it will fit as long as you have taken as much slack on both ends as you are allowed. If you oil pan is bent out of shape at all I would highly recommend using the cork gasket with the FIPG. If you just use the FIPG you must have nearly flat surfaces or it will not completely fill the gaps. Other then that it is fairly simple. Probably the key part it taking your time to clean it until you would eat off of it. Make sure your last rinse it with something like brake cleaner which will dry the surface as it cleans and evaporates. The make sure you give your FIPG time to set to the right tackyness before installing and then do not put oil in for like 12hrs to make sure it sets. Hope this is all helpful I am sure there is something I am missing along the way but nothing major.

Seth
 
IHI-RHC7

IHI-RHC7

"The Boss"
Apr 1, 2005
1,310
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Oregon
Agreed. I used to be part of the "pull it every time" club, but I grew up. Oil pan gasket can be changed in 4 hours TOTAL. My girfriend lowered the subframe and had the pan off in 1.5 hours. and she's hot. Any greasy guy should be up for the challenge of beating Heidis first time of dropping the pan.
THe problem with pulling the motor is that when it's out, you want to check everything. Then you start changing little things that will be fine until the motor blows and you rebuild it anyway. Everytime I pulled the motor, I had to do a mini rebuild, and that's expensive. Just do as seth said, save time and money. and stop the leak the easy way.
When the motor and trany are sitting on the ground next to the car, it's a bit overwhelming. Not to mention then you'll want to pull the tranny, put the engine on a stand so you can tip it up-side-down. then you have a garage full of parts, and a month later you hope it all went back together right.
OR------------ drop subframe, pull pan, clean pan, goop pan, install pan, raise subframe, tighten all bolts.

Really, it's not that bad to drop the subframe.
 
supraman7mgte

supraman7mgte

Shut up,bitch!!
Apr 1, 2005
1,753
0
0
Sunny California
EASY OIL PAN REMOVAL?!?!?!? HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA no such thing!!!!!!
i've had a dam leaky,drippy oil pan ever since i got my Sup',just something i gotta live with until rebuild time
 
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wh0wants2know

New Member
Apr 4, 2005
55
0
0
seattle
just pull the engine and change the clutch, rear main seal, oil pan seal, oil pump, and timing belt all at the same time. It's a weekend worth of work for two people.
 
mrnickleye

mrnickleye

Love My Daily Driver !
Jun 8, 2005
825
0
0
Mojave Desert, Ca
wh0wants2know said:
just pull the engine and change the clutch, rear main seal, oil pan seal, oil pump, and timing belt all at the same time. It's a weekend worth of work for two people.
Click to expand...

Just crack open the ole wallet....or get the credit card out. And you better plan on seeing some more things to fix while its out. And...oh yea......don't plan on running down to the parts house or dealer and getting everything that day. :biglaugh:
 
A

Afunk

New Member
Jul 12, 2005
53
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0
Dude, I've done both, pulled motor alone, pulled tranny/motor, and dropped crossmemeber. The first time you try and drop the crossmemeber, it will take longer than pulling your engine. The second time and so on will be much easier. The subframe does NOT weigh 500 lbs...I could push it up by myself and I'm 17. I did not have the struts on though. You'll need a cherry picker to support the engine while you drop the bottom out. Try it this way, it's frusterating like hell the first time, but once you've done it, you can say you've done it, and after another itme or two, it'll be much faster than pulling the engine.
 
mkiiSupraMan18

mkiiSupraMan18

Needs a new username...
Apr 1, 2005
2,161
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United States
weak....... me and Rumptis can take two motors out, put one back in in less than 5 hours (I'm pretty sure thats what it was) Pull motor/trans together, take the harness out of the dash, (MUCH easier than pulling the intake the old fashioned way), disconnect all the hoses/wires and such, take out the rad, jack the back of the car up and start pumping the cherry picker. We pulled a 6m in less than 45 mins, start to finish, I think the hardest part was maybe the motor mounts, and even those are easy, well, maybe the trans mount was the hardest, I dunno. Anyway, I'll pull out everytime... 26 nuts, that even sounds like a PITA.*edit- lol, oh, the oil pan bolts..... lol just looked at the TSRM* Honestly though, how hard is it to seperate and reconnect the trans on the ground? we're talking 20 mins, MAX of work, and change the rear seal, it's only like $10-15 You'll be glad you did. oil pump.... thats crapp, have yet to have one go out on me and my 5/6ms were probably pushing 150+K. hardest thing on the 7m's I would say would be the fuel line...

and those who take the intake off to get the harness out, seriously try taking it out of the firewall instead. I did it once, and I will do it from now on. it seriously cuts the time in half, if not more. all you'll need is a long pair of needle nosed pliers, maybe a coat hanger would work, I dunno, to pull it through the firewall, and you're done.

As far as sealer, I used "the right stuff" no word yet on how that's gonna work for me, still need a couple of wires connected and I'll be ready to go. :icon_bigg Hope I helped out a little, I know I like to talk. :icon_conf
 
C

cjsupra90

previously chris90na-t
Jun 11, 2005
1,029
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Lakeland, FL
first off do not and I repeat, do not support the motor by the crank pully, that is a easy way to ask for trouble. as for droping the sub-frame yeah, it not all that hard. I have done it both ways, but I still prefer to pull the motor and trans. theres only one time that i like to lay on my back and thats not when working on a car. fishing the oil pan out and cleaning old sealer off while having to deal with the sub-frame being still in the way is not exactly fun...

no matter which way you do it, it not fun. just do it and get it overwith and then you dont have to worry about it anymore.
 
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