I have mostly decided to go with eagle rods for my build. Is it true they don't have the oil squiters on the side of the rod? Is this a big deal?
Thanks in advance
Thanks in advance
eagle rod oil squirters?
- Thread starter tig321
- Start date
Stock does after market don't.
I've seen Pauters with a notch in the rod flank to Oil the bore but I figured I have block squirters so don't need another leak.
I've seen Pauters with a notch in the rod flank to Oil the bore but I figured I have block squirters so don't need another leak.
Adjuster
Supramania Contributor
Every stock rod that I've seen fail, has been at the squirter hole, then the rod let's go, and becomes scrap metal along with the rest of your motor.
My pauters only have a small hole in the very top of the pin bore. No squirter hole in the shoulder as IJ noted. (Or a cleft in the shoulder to do the same.)
With the stock oil squirters in the block, I don't really think you need additional oil on the bore, especially with coatings helping out.
My pauters only have a small hole in the very top of the pin bore. No squirter hole in the shoulder as IJ noted. (Or a cleft in the shoulder to do the same.)
With the stock oil squirters in the block, I don't really think you need additional oil on the bore, especially with coatings helping out.
Adjuster
Supramania Contributor
So, on that rod, it appears the bolt let go first right? Interesting.
On two other rods I've seen, both failed right through the oil squirter hole, you could see the drilled hole in one or both sides of the metal left over.
One failed there, then bent and twisted up the rod beam, the other just failed there and then poked a hole through the pan and took out the oil pump drive shaft while wedging it'self there.
Looks like the rod bolts are not very strong either. (Good thing there is ARP eh?)
On two other rods I've seen, both failed right through the oil squirter hole, you could see the drilled hole in one or both sides of the metal left over.
One failed there, then bent and twisted up the rod beam, the other just failed there and then poked a hole through the pan and took out the oil pump drive shaft while wedging it'self there.
Looks like the rod bolts are not very strong either. (Good thing there is ARP eh?)
Tig: The 2 squirters perform very different functions.
My pistons are coated and my idle Oil pressure is 50 psi so I'm happy to run with just the block squirters.
My pistons are coated and my idle Oil pressure is 50 psi so I'm happy to run with just the block squirters.
Yes it is. I can't take credit for it though. I had an ad in the paper for a supra parts car. I was going to do a 7mgt 4runner swap. I bought the engine, other stuff from a guy who was going to swap in a 1j. He said the engine had a "loud knocking sound" lol. I drove 3 hours to pick it all up so I figured might as well take it all.supra90turbo said:
It looks that way, I think the engine was running hard (duh) low on oil and dang hot. The rods were very black.Adjuster said:
IJ. said:
IJ. said:
So the hole in the rod sprays oil on the thrust side of the bore and
the squirters in the block just cool the piston?
I believe both you and adjuster are running coated ross pistons. I am going with ross also. I geuss you'd both recomend it.
On the oil issue, I bought a new filter relocation kit, thermo and cooler. Will this along with a new shimmed oil pump give me sufficient pressure? I'm a little concerned since the ross pistons have such short skirts.
Tig: Correct!
The Rod holes squirt the Bore Thrust surface and the Block squirters spray underneath of the Piston Crown.
If you do those Oil system mods you "should" be able to make enough pressure at idle/low RPM to keep the block squirters open and provide lube for the skirts!
The Rod holes squirt the Bore Thrust surface and the Block squirters spray underneath of the Piston Crown.
If you do those Oil system mods you "should" be able to make enough pressure at idle/low RPM to keep the block squirters open and provide lube for the skirts!