doing a head gasket on a budget and a time frame

boost fiend

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Jul 24, 2005
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like the title sez, im on a time frame and a really tight budet.

ive replaced many a hg in all sorts of diffrent cars/engines.

i really dont have the extra time to send the head to a machine shop to have it checked or milled. nor do i have the funds to do it at the moment.

i have to do this kinda fast and cheap cuz its my only car. most of my engine bay is cleaned up so that helps. im just looking for a lil extra insight and words of wisdom to help me speed this up and make sure im still good to go. the hg was replaced before i got the car (i got it 2 years ago and it was replaced just under 3 years ago in the same manner.)



rep goes to all that help with really useful info that i already dont know.
 

Reign_Maker

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Aug 31, 2005
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Of course my first advice would be to do it ONCE and do it RIGHT... However, I dont think you'll follow that advice, or I dont think you CAN follow it now, sooooo... Get a Cometic mhg and some arp head bolts... Talk to Sean @ Titan, (2JZmk3 on here) he can set you up with both for a great price... Cometic has the most lenient when it comes to tolerances...

Good luck...
 

jdub

Official SM Expert: Motor Oil, Lubricants & Fil
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- Stock Toyota HG...guys get good results w/ copper spray on these
- ARP bolts torqued to 75 ft/lbs w/ moly per TRSM pattern
- Cam seals, exhaust manifold gasket, intake manifold gasket, valve cover gaskets, CPS O-ring, little 90 deg coolant hose on back of head, new thermostat & gasket
- Couple gallons of coolant
- Clean cylinders, piston tops, and head chambers w/ MoPar cleaner
- Check valve clearances...re-shim as necessary
- Spark plugs?
- Re-torque head bolts after 5 heat cycles
- Change oil...since you has a BHG, change again when you re-torque

Edit: Think about changing your timing belt while you have all this off...the alt, AC, and PS belts too ;)
 

americanjebus

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Mar 30, 2005
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if your going cheep and fast then the cometic isnt going to be the best route, you said your not going to have the time to mill and machine the head.... bad idea but an oem composite gasket should let you survive until you have the resources to do this right. Assuming you havent overheated allot and you release the pressure on the head evenly you shouldnt have any warpage, if your goign to do this in like one night i suggest you have a friend help out to go at your block and head with a new putty scraper like a mad man until you get the closest thing to a mirror finish.

i've pulled off hg changes in one night without taking the head to the machine shop, i know its bad but they have yet to break. Just dont try to rush and break a bolt off in the head like i did. You should be able to reuse most of your hoses but you will need a gasket kit. a felpro kit , some oil, some coolant, and hopefully some new bolts if you can afford it cus it sounds like your budget is stretched.

Gl, hope you dont leave your car worse than it was. if you can, try to find a ride for the time being so you can do this right.
 

SySt

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Mar 30, 2005
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You've already done many a head jobs? Then just do this head job. It is not any different. If you need specs someone here can link you to the right site. If you're looking for quick and cheap in the absolute. Stock head gasket, reuse bolts, RTV all the intake gaskets unless they are in a good enough condition to reuse.
 

boost fiend

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Jul 24, 2005
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on order is a fel pro head gasket kit from advanced auto and new toyota head bolts that will see 75 pounds of torque.

ive been searching around here for a few and came up with some good lines to work with.

all oil and coolant will be changed at the same time as the hg. im looking more for that i might have to pull and what needs to be moved. this is my first 7m and also my first dohc engine. not that i havent worked on dohc engines before, but this one is mine and im a lil anal about it.

rep has been sent to all for your help.

p.s. i dont reuse any head bolts. not worth beeing that cheap and blowing a engine.
 

jdub

Official SM Expert: Motor Oil, Lubricants & Fil
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Feb 10, 2006
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TRSM outlines it pretty well...allow plenty of time. Take the hood off and be careful pulling the head (you'll need a helper)...it's heavy and you don't want to hurt your back. Clean all the old HG off really well.
 

MDCmotorsports

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Reign_Maker said:
Of course my first advice would be to do it ONCE and do it RIGHT... However, I dont think you'll follow that advice, or I dont think you CAN follow it now, sooooo... Get a Cometic mhg and some arp head bolts... Talk to Sean @ Titan, (2JZmk3 on here) he can set you up with both for a great price... Cometic has the most lenient when it comes to tolerances...

Good luck...

Jake... NO.

Cometics as with most MHG's, are damn picky.

If you're simply wanting to put your car back on the road, heres what you need:

-Stock head gasket
-ARP bolt lube or any MPZ, high temp high load dark grease.
-Sanding block
-Straight edge
-About 10 pairs of foam ear plugs with the cords attached
-Paper towels
-200 grit, 500 grit, and 1000 grit sand paper
-Metric tap for head bolt holes (dont' remember what size it is)
-FIPG or RTV black
-Halomar blue. Look it up :)
-Enough oil to do an oil change
-4+ cans of brake cleaner. DO NOT CHEAP OUT ON THIS. Do not get the brake cleaner that has petrol in it (will smell like diesel fuel). CRC makes great electrical contact / brake cleaner.
- Three to four straight razor blades
- Shop vac


*************************************************

Ok, its a rush job. This isn't going to make it 6 years down the road. Its not going to make 1341094189471 horse power. Its not going to be SAE "correct".

It will get you on the road.

Drain the coolant. (duh)

Take the head off the car, and make sure you remove the exhaust manifold and upper plennum. Leave the cam gears and cams in if possible.

Measure the deck and head for warping. If either are out of toyota specs, you're pretty much fubar.

With the head off the car, litterally hose the entire bottom side of the head down, while using a razor blade to scrape all excess head gasket material away.

Take the ear plugs, and cut the cord that attaches them together.

MAKE SURE TO COUNT HOW MANY YOU ARE INSTALLING. DO NOT SKIMP ON THIS STEP.

Take an ear plug and insert one into each hole in the head (bolt holes etc) The cord lets you remove them. If they get stuck, spray some Wd40 or light oil down the hole and they will pop out.

After clearing away all large debris via razor, start with the heavy grit sand paper. Go from left to right all the way down the head, then up and down the head. You should get two grains going against each other. Then repeat the same process with the other sand papers. You may / may not get all the pits out of the head you are working on. Just remember that every thing must be even.

Keep moving!

Don't sand in one spot.

When you are done with the head, hose down the sanded area with a can of brake clean.

Remove the ear plugs. AGAIN, COUNT HOW MANY YOU PULL OUT. IT SHOULD MATCH HOW MANY YOU PUT IN.

For the block...

Be careful when installing the ear plugs into the head bolt holes due to them being threaded. Do not force the plug down into the threaded hole. If you do, you get to spend the next hour with a sewing needle fishing the plug out.

Start by installing the ear plugs into all availalbe holes. Install paper towels into each cyl bore.

Move onto cleaning the deck free of all remaining HG pcs with the razor.

After the razor, again start with the heavy sand paper, then move lighter and lighter.

Remove the ear plugs.

Now take the tap and lube it. Grease or light oil works well. Run the tap through all the head bolt holes. Clean and re-lube the tap through each hole.

After you are done, take the shop vac, and make sure the end of the hose is clean. Vacuum every bolt hole you just cleaned with the tap.

Take out the paper towels and vacuum each cyl. You may or may not get debris into the vacuum.

Take out the head gasket, and spray with Halomar blue.

Let stand untill tacky.

Take a clean lint free paper towel or rag and hose down with brake cleaner. Clean the block deck.

This is where it gets tricky.

Install the head gasket.

Install the FIPG / rtv black along the area towards the front of the block as specified in the TSRM.

Have a friend with flashlight help you install the head. You MUST GET IT ON PERFECTLY STRAIGHT! If you don't, you will dent or crease the head gasket.

After you install your head, take each headbolt and clean on a wire wheel. Again, hose off with brake cleaner untill clean. Use either ARP head bolt lube, or some heavy MPZ, hi temp, or other dark heavy load hi temp grease.

Make sure each head bolt hole in the head has a washer.

Install each head bolt, with plenty of lube under the head of the bolt between the washer, and on the threads.

Follow toyota torque pattern.

Once torqued, drain your engine oil.

While draining, hose out each cam cover with a can of brake cleaner.

While drying, install a new oil filter.

Pour one quart on the exhaust cam.

Pour one quart on the intake cam.

Check final head bolt torque.

Install now clean cam covers.

Reinstall the rest of the engine parts.
 

SySt

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Mar 30, 2005
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I am with this MDC guy. Sanding the block surface is good for a MHG. However I do disagree, 1500 grit sand paper will hardly do a damn thing to cast iron, sand in one area with it all you want. I am totally with the whoel wet-sanding with brake-clean thought.
 

boost fiend

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Jul 24, 2005
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Rockford, Il
MDC: i owe you a beer now! thats the kinda info i was looking for.

great as usual. anyone remeber the size of the head bolt? iirc, its a allen head bolt but i cant remebet what size.

and what is halomar blue? is it like brake quiet or copper seal?

i understand this is just to keep me going for now and i wont make 4000 rwhp.
thats what next winter is for.


well, i think im gonna start it next sun night or really early mon morning.
hope i dont find any gremlens in my engine.
 

americanjebus

Mr. Evergreen
Mar 30, 2005
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forgot to mention that a bottle of molly lube will help as you put stuff together to prevent the harsh dry cold start,

also keep a close eye on your vavle shims, DONT MIX THEM.
 

MDCmotorsports

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americanjebus said:
forgot to mention that a bottle of molly lube will help as you put stuff together to prevent the harsh dry cold start,

also keep a close eye on your vavle shims, DONT MIX THEM.

True words, but he's on a budget. He won't need to take the cams out at all the way I told him to do it.

The allen head, on the bolts is 10mm IIRC.

Halomar blue IS THE ONLY THING YOU SHOULD EVER USE BESIDES NOTHING AT ALL ON SEALING A HEAD GASKET.

Any performance shop near you will sell it.
 

TobyCat

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Jul 14, 2006
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wow, nice write-up MDC. Is the only difference between this and the do-it-right mothod is bringing the head into the machine shop? Well, that and MHG/ARP and to not spray any sort of sealant on a new MHG?
 

MDCmotorsports

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TobyCat said:
wow, nice write-up MDC. Is the only difference between this and the do-it-right mothod is bringing the head into the machine shop? Well, that and MHG/ARP and to not spray any sort of sealant on a new MHG?

The do it right method would be to have the deck of the block and the head machined flat.
 

tookwik4u89

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Apr 6, 2005
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TobyCat said:
wow, nice write-up MDC. Is the only difference between this and the do-it-right mothod is bringing the head into the machine shop? Well, that and MHG/ARP and to not spray any sort of sealant on a new MHG?
You would not want sealant on a new coated metal head gasket, but hes using a stocker, so its ok, and a very good idea w/ no machining. I havent used the blue, but I have used permatex copper, and permatex hi-tack many times with no issues. Good luck boostfiend!
 

boost fiend

Banned
Jul 24, 2005
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Rockford, Il
trust me fella's, if i had the funds and a second car i would be sending it all off to be machined. but being that its my only car i have to act fast. me and my fiancee dont have many choices at the moment.

my concern is pulling the cps (hoping i can get around not haveing to pull it out, but i do need to replace o rings and blah blah.)

and i do plan to try and leave the cams in the head while i take the head off.

i really thank you all for the help and insight everyone has given me. rep will be handed out to all that added useful info.

and MDC, pick your beer or if ya dont drink, ill owe ya a pop.
 

americanjebus

Mr. Evergreen
Mar 30, 2005
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boost fiend said:
my concern is pulling the cps (hoping i can get around not haveing to pull it out, but i do need to replace o rings and blah blah.)

dun worry about the cps, when i did mine i just pulled it out and with some white out i just painted a line accross the gears. As long as you keep the line straight your ok, when i put it back in i just put the engine tdc, with cams lined up and plopped her back in. get your fiances nail polish out. Nail polish saved my supra.
 

JDM 1JZ

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Aug 31, 2005
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i was doing arp bolts and fel-pro head gasket @ 90Ft lbs for 2 years beating on my car on a t4 60 trim @ 22lbs and she the only reason she blew is because my radiator fouled up and i over heated, and at that i nothing mixed and it was only a mild blow, i only knew it blew because i kept getting exaust gases into my radiator, anyway... people bash it, ive never had a problem with it, composite w/tons of copper spray and arp studs ftw in my book