Dipstick pushing

[radiod]

Just noticed the other day that my dipstick wasn't seated all the way down in to the holder (sitting about 1/4" up, but still in place). I know this is typically a sign of over pressurized crank case, so I figured I'd see if I can make it do it again. Took it for a good run and checked it periodically and found that it gets that little bit of space when I hit fuel cut. No blue smoke from the exhaust as far as I can tell. I'm going to check my PCV and make sure it's not kinked and it's all clear, but would fuel cut cause that to happen?

Worst case scenario if it is rings are on their way out, how long can it be expected before the car is undriveable (it's my DD, I want to try and figure out solutions as far enough in advance as possible).

 

[JStoked]

At idle take the oil cap off and check and see if any smoke comes out and smells bad. if so its your rings.

 

[radiod]

I can tell you that doesn't happen for sure. I check under the oil cap while the car is cooling off usually after a good hard run (BHG paranoid much...yes). No smoke or unusual smells. Doesn't noticeably burn any oil either. Haven't had to add any between oil changes before.

 

[RTtim]

Just sounds like a little blow by. The best temp fix is to turn the boost down a little before it gets worse. You could try to comp test your engine cold and hot to see if there is a difference.

 

[IJ.]

The stock PCV stsem doesn't cope well with increased blowby, I enlarged all of mine to allow more flow after noticing the dipstick trying to escape on a fairly fresh engine and had minimal leakdown figures, all this isn't helped by short skirt forged pistons with narrow rings.

 

[radiod]

Actually, now that you mention it I had the car in the shop just a little while ago and one of the connectors on top of the valve cover for the PCV was loose and kept popping out, so the shop welded a small piece of pipe in place. I'll check and make sure that's not restricting it at all.

 

[radiod]

Checked things out, welded part seems to be ok. Would plumbing an oil catch can in to the system with seperate lines from each valve cover and capping off the throttle body port potentially fix this?

EDIT: After doing some research, looks like I'd need both valve cover lines and the throttle body port all T'd together, and then run a single line in to the catch can (and the line out from the can to the accordian hose obviously). Is this right? How have other people routed their catch can lines? Trying to search around examples.

 

[IJ.]

I just replicated the stock system but in larger bore lines and fitting, I added an actual PCV Valve to the system as well.

 

[radiod]

Sounds good. Stopped by the shop I got the work done at and mentioned what was going on and they figure it's more than likely that my dipstick seal is just worn out, which may very well be the case with how often I check it (I would say 3 - 5 times a week for the last 2 years on an already old stick). At this point it takes almost no effort at all to pull it out (engine off), and I'm not seeing any oil that's leaked/sprayed in that area at all either. I know I'm paranoid about my car, so I'll likely still put in a catch can and get some slightly larger lines etc because it won't hurt anything and it will keep oil from making the inside of the intercooler/piping/manifold/etc all gunky. From what I'm seeing I can just cut in to where the line comes off the exhaust side valve cover, run that in to the can, then run out of the can to the accordian and everything should be happy.

Thank you everyone for the input, it's all greatly appreciated