Crank Clearance problems...

[I6Boost]

Ok so i've been having hell of a time with these clearances on mains...

My last thread you guys said it was way out of spec but yet
when i talked to toyota and my machine shop they said its within spec
but just a little on the high side...

I'd like some more assurance.

Brand new Clevites.
STD size.

(I did not plastiguage the 4th cap)

1 - 0.001 in.
2 - 0.0015 in.
3 - 0.0015 in.
4 -
5 - 0.0015 in.
6 - 0.002 in.
7 - 0.002 in.

TSRM says 0.0012 in. - 0.0019 in.
Maximum is 0.0028 in.

I'm not familure with SAE at all and dunno if im reading this wrong or what...

The machine shop i goto is very well known for doing 7M's, Shane from Nolden Motorsports
brings majority of his 7M's to them and is where he recommended me.

Also about the whole oil pump shimming, i pulled out the bolt with the hole in the middle of it...
Tried to put 5mm of washers but the threads would catch in but just strip out so i was only able to use 2 washers which was probably about 3mm.

hvyman said something about oil cooler relief spring i have to shim that also, where is it? i cant find it
via TSRM at all...

Thanks for anyones response on this, i appreciate it a ton.

 

[Poodles]

Don't shim the oil cooler relief valve, just replace the terrible system if you can...

 

[I6Boost]

Don't shim the oil cooler relief valve, just replace the terrible system if you can...

Where can i buy a new/aftermarket one at?

&& do you have any suggestions on the clearance aspect?

 

[CyFi6]

Your clearances aren't too large, but i would be questioning the alignment of the bores. You should measure the bores for straightness, then measure each bore for out of round/taper/size etc, then mic the crank and determine if you can get Toyota bearings in their respective sizes so your clearances will all be in the middle of specs and equal. Biggest problem with larger clearances on these engines is the loss of oil pressure. If you don't feel up to all the measuring or don't have the tools, just have the machine shop do it.

 

[IJ.]

Your clearances aren't too large, but i would be questioning the alignment of the bores. You should measure the bores for straightness, then measure each bore for out of round/taper/size etc, then mic the crank and determine if you can get Toyota bearings in their respective sizes so your clearances will all be in the middle of specs and equal. Biggest problem with larger clearances on these engines is the loss of oil pressure. If you don't feel up to all the measuring or don't have the tools, just have the machine shop do it.

All depends on his RWHP goals....

 

[I6Boost]

All depends on his RWHP goals....

Basicly as far as the stock AFM/440's will take me before fuel cut.

Mods so far.

1.6mm MHG
57Trim CT26
Cartect Intercooler w/ Hardpipes
HKS SSQV
Gauges
Piston rings
&& Bottem bearing clevites

So 300-350 at most.

I really dont wanna have to take my crank to the machine shop if i dont need need too...

&& Thanks for the reply CyFi, yea i mean i talked to the machine shop guys and they said its
fine but i really dont wanna skimp out on anything, but also dont wanna spend $200 on something that
doesn't need need it.

I'm not dragging the car, or beating on it. Just the occasional evo,wrx,mustang kills.

 

[IJ.]

I'd shoot for high 1's for that power, 2 won't hurt anything other than a little extra pressure bleedoff.

It will leave you with some overhead in case the HP bug bites.

 

[I6Boost]

I'd shoot for high 1's for that power, 2 won't hurt anything other than a little extra pressure bleedoff.

It will leave you with some overhead in case the HP bug bites.

Ok you got me stumped, can you elaborate a little bit? high 1's, 2's?

 

[supraguy@aol]

I think he means .001x inches clearance, vs. .002x inches clearance.
Sometimes, you have to file your piston rings and adjust your piston to wall clearances a bit wider for higher HP goals too.

 

[I6Boost]

I think he means .001x inches clearance, vs. .002x inches clearance.
Sometimes, you have to file your piston rings and adjust your piston to wall clearances a bit wider for higher HP goals too.

Ohhhh ok...

What about the 0.015's?

 

[IJ.]

#1 is way too tight, I'd shuffle some shells around and see if you can get a little more clearence, SG is correct high 1's refers to 1.5>1.9 thou.

Rings will be 4 thou for every inch of bore diamter top and 5 thou on the second, if it's going to be a 4>500rwhp build I'd add at least another 5 on to them.

ie: 3" bore would be 12 thou + 5 thou so 17 all up for the top ring and 15 + 5 = 20 for the second ring.

 

[I6Boost]

#1 is way too tight, I'd shuffle some shells around and see if you can get a little more clearence, SG is correct high 1's refers to 1.5>1.9 thou.

Rings will be 4 thou for every inch of bore diamter top and 5 thou on the second, if it's going to be a 4>500rwhp build I'd add at least another 5 on to them.

ie: 3" bore would be 12 thou + 5 thou so 17 all up for the top ring and 15 + 5 = 20 for the second ring.

I cant change the bearings for #1, that bearing is way different from the other ones, its really wide....

So when the plastigauge says 0.015 its actually like 0.01.5? If so that makes sense now...

Is there anything else i can do to open up that clearance just a tad for #1?

 

[IJ.]

Sorry wasn't thinking.... (oldNalotonmymind)

You can either have the crank linished down to suit or you can very carefully sand the bearing surface with fine steel wool, remember you're only trying to remove half a thou.

 

[I6Boost]

Sorry wasn't thinking.... (oldNalotonmymind)

You can either have the crank linished down to suit or you can very carefully sand the bearing surface with fine steel wool, remember you're only trying to remove half a thou.

All good, it happens lol.

&& what about sand paper w/ 1500grit?

Not sure i have fine steel wool, if i cant use the grit ill go buy the steel wool.

EDIT: Yea it was a stupid question lol.

 

[IJ.]

Nah even 1500 is going to remove a LOT of material, the steel wool pads with soap in the work well but make sure you wash the shells well with hot soapy water before plastigauging them.

You only need to rub very lightly to remove half a thou, better to do it 2, 3 times then too much in one go.

 

[I6Boost]

Nah even 1500 is going to remove a LOT of material, the steel wool pads with soap in the work well but make sure you wash the shells well with hot soapy water before plastigauging them.

You only need to rub very lightly to remove half a thou, better to do it 2, 3 times then too much in one go.

Alright ill go try that tomorrow and report back here...


Hey man i appreciate it a lot with you helping me out, gave me a lot of useful information that
i didnt really know about and in turn will save me alot of headaches down the road.

 

[IJ.]

Normally I don't suggest things like this but you seem to be NOT a total numbnut and if you're careful it'll be fine

 

[I6Boost]

Normally I don't suggest things like this but you seem to be NOT a total numbnut and if you're careful it'll be fine

Ok so i lied, i didnt wait untill tomorrow...
I actually laid in bed thinking about that stupid bearing for a good 2hours.

Got up (4am btw) went out there and started working on the bearing, got it to 0.015 woot!
I found 2000grit sand paper i had laying around and used it, very lightley i went left to right and back about 4-5 times. on both bearings.

Then plastigauged the bearing in 3 different spots to make sure it was good all around....

So i reckon thats a relief...

Now i just need to find out about this oil cooler relief spring or whatever?
I cant find it in the TSRM at all...?

Can someone help me out?

Thank you.

 

[IJ.]

Lose the pressure based Cooler circuit, replace it with a full flow t-stat based system, shim the pump relief 5mm and win

 

[I6Boost]

Lose the pressure based Cooler circuit, replace it with a full flow t-stat based system, shim the pump relief 5mm and win

That sounds amazing and i think im just gonna do that after i get the car running, but not now lol.

Any idea how much of an increase it gives in pressure?

I just got done reading a few of jdubs and kamlins threads on it but i didnt see where they posted the increase...

Regardless im not doing it now, dont really feel like waiting on all the little parts but i just added that to my list of things to buy.

Oh and i found the relief valve finally on the tsrm... just shim that also at 5mm?