Coilpack relocation done
- Thread starter bigaaron
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cali said:
You still need the isc, but it does not have to pull in metered air like on the stock afm. The engine will not even run when it is cold without the isc, unless you have the throttle open all the time which will make your warm idle way too fast.
bigaaron said:
aaah I see... but am I totally stupid?! Didn´t you block off the isc in this pic?!
you did that to remove the hose and the pipe that goes across the valve covers... thats the fact everyone wants to do it as I think :icon_bigg
But wheres the isc gone if you blocked it off in stock location?
edit: I´m stupid... read it on page 5 :biggrinki
cali said:aaah I see... but am I totally stupid?! Didn´t you block off the isc in this pic?!
you did that to remove the hose and the pipe that goes across the valve covers... thats the fact everyone wants to do it as I think :icon_bigg
But wheres the isc gone if you blocked it off in stock location?
The hose goes to the isc :icon_wink
Actually it will go to the isc but I ran out of time to get it done before Vegas and I put it back temporarily.
And I'm sure you are not totally stupid. LOL
well...actually... the past few posts arent entirely correct. AFM-based/stock ecu cars can and will still run w/o the ISC. the pre89 cars have a base idle adjustment screw that cant be adjusted to idle the motor up higher to about 1000-1200. with power steering and AC, the motor still idles fun and doesnt die out even when dropping throttle. the 89+ cars dont have this base idle set screw anymore...so you physically have to hold the throttle plate open. simple reset the throttle stop screw to hold the RPM's higher. after you do this, you need to recalibrate the TPS though. once you adjust the throttle plate, you may be operating outside the IDL circuit... so just recalibrate that so the new TPS is 0% and you get the IDL continuity to GND terminal under 0.5mm. and have NO continuity over 0.9mm. ive had several cars run and drive w/o the ISC on stock ECU and AFM. so it wont be any more difficult to pull it off w/ a MAP-based system
IMO, i would rig up a way to pull fresh air from the cold pipe, pre-TB for the ISC. in some cases, the ISC becomes a boost leak. so if it pulls pre-turbo air, the pressure difference is greater. but if its pre-TB and has a pressure equilibrium, its less lkely to be a boost leak
IMO, i would rig up a way to pull fresh air from the cold pipe, pre-TB for the ISC. in some cases, the ISC becomes a boost leak. so if it pulls pre-turbo air, the pressure difference is greater. but if its pre-TB and has a pressure equilibrium, its less lkely to be a boost leak
I agree with you mostly, but no matter where you set it the idle speed with the throttle plate, once you adjust it so it is not too low when it is cold it will be too high when the engine is warm. The isc lets the ecu make continuous adjustments to control the idle.
It's one of those things where people say it will work just fine, when in reality it will be annoying so I don't even consider it as an option. There are lots of things that are possible but not a good idea in practice.
Just my .02.
It's one of those things where people say it will work just fine, when in reality it will be annoying so I don't even consider it as an option. There are lots of things that are possible but not a good idea in practice.
Just my .02.
So me and my brother copied your idea with the mounting location. We welded it to that support down there, though we wanted to use stock plug wires so that it would look factory. We gathered (6) #6 wires and tried it out but their too short still, so we are disassembling all of the plugs and will be making our own length plugs with the stock toyota ends w/ clips.
Well I guess I will have to do it then :biglaugh:
I have some time next week, I will get it going. The only holdup is the wire set. The only wires I can get custom made with the connectors like stock cost over $100 a set. They are super nice 8.5mm or 9mm wires, but I'm not sure what you guys are willing to spend on this.
What do you guys think would be a reasonable price for this kit, or what are you willing to spend? I'm serious too, don't say $5 max or something :biglaugh:
I have some time next week, I will get it going. The only holdup is the wire set. The only wires I can get custom made with the connectors like stock cost over $100 a set. They are super nice 8.5mm or 9mm wires, but I'm not sure what you guys are willing to spend on this.
What do you guys think would be a reasonable price for this kit, or what are you willing to spend? I'm serious too, don't say $5 max or something :biglaugh:
bigaaron said:
What kind of question is that?
There's no right answer... if I say $50 you say "screw you" and if I say $500 you say "ka-ching, here's your $500 relocation kit" LOLjust mark it up whatever you think is fair for your time and effort, if people are too cheap to buy it then forget them... or make a "good" kit and a "cheapo" kit.
born2drv said:What kind of question is that?
:biglaugh: Come on now, $500 would be the cheap kit.
:nono: I already said the wire set was around $100, my point was to ask if it was more then $100 would anyone still be interested.
But don't answer, I'll figure out what it is going to cost and go from there.
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