codes 31 & 24, but won't start

thechori

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Oct 3, 2006
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alright just as the title says; but there's a catch

there MIGHT not be enough gas (the tank was empty, but i JUST put in a gallon of gas) is 1 gallon enough to start on?

i was jumping the fuel pump earlier to see if my lines were leaking and then i ran out of fuel. i filled the tank with a gallon of fuel and tested the fuel pump again and didn't see any leaks. but if the pump wasn't picking up any fuel then i MIGHT still have a leak so now i'm slightly worried about that too

but back to my question (which isn't related to the title), is 1 gallon enough fuel to start a car after it's been emptied?

STATUS:
3/3/08 - (#26) still unsolved!
 
Last edited:

AJ'S 88NA

New Member
Jul 26, 2007
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thechori;938360 said:
alright just as the title says; but there's a catch

there MIGHT not be enough gas (the tank was empty, but i JUST put in a gallon of gas) is 1 gallon enough to start on?

i was jumping the fuel pump earlier to see if my lines were leaking and then i ran out of fuel so i filled it with a gallon. i filled the tank with a gallon of fuel and tested the fuel pump again and didn't see any leaks. but if the pump wasn't picking up any fuel then i MIGHT still have a leak so now i'm slightly worried about that too

but back to my question (which isn't related to the title), is 1 gallon enough fuel to start a car after it's been emptied?
Put another gallon in and see.
 

thechori

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Oct 3, 2006
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hmm alright well turns out i forgot to plug in the AFM (which is definitely why i got the 24&31 codes)

tried to crank the car and i got the same thing, just the starter working trying to turn the engine over (did this for maybe 7-10 seconds) so i stopped, and i hear a gunshot from the engine (i'm running open downpipe, so it was loud)

i'm guessing that means i've got some fuel, and some spark, wtf?? why isn't it starting ahhh
 

AJ'S 88NA

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Jul 26, 2007
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thechori;940260 said:
hmm alright well turns out i forgot to plug in the AFM (which is definitely why i got the 24&31 codes)

tried to crank the car and i got the same thing, just the starter working trying to turn the engine over (did this for maybe 7-10 seconds) so i stopped, and i hear a gunshot from the engine (i'm running open downpipe, so it was loud)

i'm guessing that means i've got some fuel, and some spark, wtf?? why isn't it starting ahhh

Need more info. How long was the car sitting, what else had been done, etc.
 

thechori

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AJ'S 88NA;940313 said:
Need more info. How long was the car sitting, what else had been done, etc.

-car has been sitting for around 6 months

reason: it overheated

  • i took the head off, mine was full of solidified STOPLEAK (previous owner was stupid), so i grabbed a WAY better condition turbo head, swapped over everything from mine to it
  • replaced thermostat
  • new headgasket
  • arp studs

i just checked if the distributor was set correctly and it was

all of the car is set correctly to the TSRMs specs timing-wise (crank, cams, and dizzy)

i am losttt
 

thechori

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Oct 3, 2006
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bluedragon17;940531 said:
hows the condition of your plugs, wires, etc.??? Are your codes cleared?? and have you touched the TPS at all??

plugs and wires were relatively new when the car was overheating, codes were only 24 and 31, which should be gone now that i plugged in the AFM

what do you mean by touched the TPS? i know it's plugged in



im more concerned with the huge backfire i got when i stopped cranking the car, that scared the shhhhhhhiet outta me because i thought that it might lead to another fire (had one 3 weeks ago, just finished repairing everything it messed up)
 

bluedragon17

87 NA-T baby!!!
Sep 14, 2006
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Vacaville, CA
I read the post about the fire. Glad to hear its fixed. Also if the plugs have been sitting for 6+ months change them out to some NGK BCPR5es-11 i think is the code for the NA ones. And as long as you didnt mess with the TPS dont worry about it just checking. Had yo have my car towed to a shop and have it electronically adjusted cuz a buddy thought it would be funny to mess with it. he payed to have it adjusted though. Check all the basic stuff then report back.
 

AJ'S 88NA

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Jul 26, 2007
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If it backfired it sounds like it maybe timing. You say the tank was empty, you might want to change the fuel filter, maybe it's plugged from sediment if it was empty and you only put a gallon in............Have you verified you have fuel and spark?
 

thechori

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Oct 3, 2006
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AJ'S 88NA;940661 said:
If it backfired it sounds like it maybe timing. You say the tank was empty, you might want to change the fuel filter, maybe it's plugged from sediment if it was empty and you only put a gallon in............Have you verified you have fuel and spark?

from what's happened, i'm pretty sure i've got both; but how can i verify both of these for sure?
 
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AJ'S 88NA

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thechori;940666 said:
from what's happened, i'm pretty sure i've got both; but how can i verify both of these for sure?

oh and how hard is it to change the fuel filter?

You are sure the cam gears, top dead center on #1 piston, crank pully, and distributor on #1 all line up?

If you pull a spark plug wire and put a paper clip in the wire and touch the clip to ground when you crank it it should spark.

I remember somebody saying to take the CSI out and turn the key on for a second and if you are getting fuel it will show there.

The fuel filter is up by the rear-end up by the gas tank. It's a pain to get at and even more of a pain if it hasn't been changed for a while as the fittings get rusty the harder it is to get them loose with out rounding them off. I kept spraying mine for quite a while with PB Blaster before I tried again when I found out they were pretty seized up. They finally broke loose.

Check for spark before you check for fuel and I'd double check all your timing marks.
 

thechori

supra-deprived
Oct 3, 2006
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houston
AJ'S 88NA;940691 said:
You are sure the cam gears, top dead center on #1 piston, crank pully, and distributor on #1 all line up?

If you pull a spark plug wire and put a paper clip in the wire and touch the clip to ground when you crank it it should spark.

I remember somebody saying to take the CSI out and turn the key on for a second and if you are getting fuel it will show there.

The fuel filter is up by the rear-end up by the gas tank. It's a pain to get at and even more of a pain if it hasn't been changed for a while as the fittings get rusty the harder it is to get them loose with out rounding them off. I kept spraying mine for quite a while with PB Blaster before I tried again when I found out they were pretty seized up. They finally broke loose.

Check for spark before you check for fuel and I'd double check all your timing marks.

yeah i looked up an article on the fuel filter and with all the stuff they said about it never/RARELY needing to being changed, i've discarded that idea

i'm 97% sure the cams are lined up perfectly with the crank and everything else, because there was just enough room in between the cams and the studs for me to tighten the nuts down (and also they were marked with a big L and R to show that they were set upright correctly)

i'll try that CSI idea you suggested, that seems like the most necessary test for now; i know i have spark, just need to verify the fuel
 

bluedragon17

87 NA-T baby!!!
Sep 14, 2006
382
0
0
Vacaville, CA
remove all six plug wires and find six throw away plugs to plug into them. Unplug the fuel pump relay so that the pump wont dump fuel everytime the distributor is turned over. Set the motor at TDC on #1 compression stroke and remove the dizzy. Ground all six plugs and turn the dizzy by hand and verify that each and every single plug fire. If so then reinstall evrything and move on to fuel. Use the TSRM ways to test for fuel and pump working then start looking into air. The 3 basics for combustion obviously. If all are good and confirmed then look into timing and re-time the entire motor. PITA i know but well worth it. if that doesnt help well move on to other things to check for.........
 

thechori

supra-deprived
Oct 3, 2006
567
0
0
36
houston
bluedragon17;940703 said:
remove all six plug wires and find six throw away plugs to plug into them. Unplug the fuel pump relay so that the pump wont dump fuel everytime the distributor is turned over. Set the motor at TDC on #1 compression stroke and remove the dizzy. Ground all six plugs and turn the dizzy by hand and verify that each and every single plug fire. If so then reinstall evrything and move on to fuel. Use the TSRM ways to test for fuel and pump working then start looking into air. The 3 basics for combustion obviously. If all are good and confirmed then look into timing and re-time the entire motor. PITA i know but well worth it. if that doesnt help well move on to other things to check for.........

is there a thread with instructions for the plug test? some of the stuff i didn't really understand ;]
 

bluedragon17

87 NA-T baby!!!
Sep 14, 2006
382
0
0
Vacaville, CA
sorry not really majorly JJ described it to me go through and search for plugs toast after 10 miles it was started by me and there is some useful info in there from JJ and a better explanation on the spark test
 

bluedragon17

87 NA-T baby!!!
Sep 14, 2006
382
0
0
Vacaville, CA
its all good man i appreciate it anyways and it was you who sent me back to the beginning also. You told me it is probably something remedial and easy to figure out. Low and behold it was an injector seal into the head on the 4 5 and 6 injector!!!