clutch won't disengage

[z8dmc]

Any info appreciated
I just finished a motor rebuild and my clutch won't disengage
I can shift into gear with the motor off, but when on, it wont go in gear.

R154 transmission
Act stage 2 clutch
New Slave and Clutch Master cylinder
New pilot bearing and throwout bearing and hub all the wave washers are in the correct position
The clutch disk is not backwards I quadruple checked it , and the pressure plate seems good, no bent fingers
The system has been bleed thoroughly
and I cannot adjust the clutch pedal unless I loosen the master, it seems in spec
The clutch hub and fork move when the clutch is pressed

thank you for your help

 

[lewis15498]

R154s have clutch inspection ports. Get it up on jackstands, and find urself a friend and a flashlight. Get under there and watch the fork actuate the throwout bearing. make sure its operating properly. Also are you getting good hydraulic resistance when pressing the clutch pedal?

 

[hvyman]

Sounds like you need to bleed it or you have a bad master/slave. Yes you can get bad new parts, But id start with a good bleed.

 

[jonahs_supra]

Did you bench bleed the clutch master cylinder before install?
Bench bleeding is needed and says to do it in the instructions

Thinking you may need to get another clutch master cylinder

 

[hvyman]

If you dont bench bleed it should still bleed if you bleed it normally. Just will take longer and wear out your leg.

 

[jonahs_supra]

In my experience with replacing master cylinders
If they haven't been bench bled then they won't bleed
Then try to bench bleed and sometimes they'll bleed

 

[hvyman]

If they barely bleed on a bench bleed there usually crap masters.

Ive stuck on clutch masters a couple times at work just because lack of equipment and just bleed them jumping over and over or using a mighty vac air bleeder.

 

[jonahs_supra]

I love the mighty vac
Though I have yet to bleed a master on car with it
Mainly use it when replacing calipers or wheel cylinders

 

[z8dmc]

I can see the fork pulling the hub to move the throwout bearing
slave and master are new

I did not bench bleed it. However i did bleed it on the car about 20 times with no more air coming out.
I will try bleeding it some more.
thanks

---------- Post added at 08:59 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:54 PM ----------

There is good resistance when I depress the clutch pedal.

 

[hvyman]

Need to bleed to whole system. Need to get all the air out of the lines and out of the slave.

I like taking a gatorade bottle. putting a valve stem through the cap nice and tight, take out the valve, then put a tight hose on the bleeder and the valve stem and then open it and pump over and over. It never lets air go back inside and you dont need 2 people and to constantly open and close.

 

[mkiiichip]

Disc is in backwards...

EDIT
Ha, quadruple checked it huh, nevermind.

 

[Dan_Gyoba]

If you can see the clutch fork moving, then you can most likely rule out the hydraulics. Master/slave cylinder and line are probably fine.

I had a problem come bite me after installing the engine/transmission. Forgot to torque down the flywheel bolts quite enough.When I hit the clutch pedal, the fork pulled the clutch hub out... And it took the flywheel with it. Result: no disengage.

Another thing that it could be is the snap ring holding the throwout bearing to the hub. If that snapring lets go, the hub will pull out, but it won't pull the clutch tines, and the clutch won't disengage. I don't think that there's enough room in there for the throwout bearing to fall off and rattle, but it would probably make some noise with the engine turning over.

 

[Suprapowaz!(2)]

I had the same problem as you do not too long ago. I swore up and down that the clutch disc wasn't in backwards. I "quadruple" checked it before mating them together. I ended up replacing the clutch slave and master cylinders, and bleeding it many times over before I pulled the transmission down. I turned out to be that I did have the clutch disc in backwards. I thought it could never happen to me, but it did. Hopefully it didn't happen to you, but it sure does sound like it did.

 

[z8dmc]

appreciate the reponses
I pulled the tranny to make sure the clutch disk was not backwards.

It is not even possible to bolt the pressure plate down with the clutch disk backwards.
I will try bleeding it some more since i did not bench bleed the clutch master
the clutch fork is moving
the hub is intact with the throwout bearing
i will try adjusting the clutch out more to see if it helps
thanks again for the responses

 

[hvyman]

Just because the fork is moving does not mean it is moving far enough. Hence the grinding. If everything is installed correctly it comes down to the hydraulics. Either the slave or master is faulty(Even new units can be bad but usually pretty rare) or its not bleed enough. What i usually do is take a small bottle of fluid and tip it upside done on the master(shouldnt leak all over) and either do my bleeding method or use 2 people and just keep pumping and bleeding over and over until the bottle is about empty then fill to the line and its done.

How does the pedal feel? Easy? If its too easy its not bleed all the way.

 

[jonahs_supra]

is the new pushrod in the slave cylinder the same length as the old 1?
i had this problem with my mk1 mr2

 

[z8dmc]

I will bleed a whole bottle though the lines and see if anything changed.
Thanks for the responses

 

[Selz202]

Was it driving? One time I broke a spring retainer on the disc. So it came out whenever the plate would try and move away.

I would bet that if you have pressure and the disc is in right, something is interfering with it disengaging.

 

[JStoked]

Sounds like it needs to be bleed some more. Also check to see if the master cylinder is leaking on the inside of the car. I have had two supras that leaked there. Also thanks hvy for the Gatorade idea!!

 

[z8dmc]

There are no leaks in the hydraulics system from what i can tell.
The pedal is extremely stiff, i bleed over a bottle in a half to make sure that all the air is out.
I also adjust the pedal out a tad bit to make sure the fork is moving to its true potential.
Yet the car will not go in gear when the engine is off.
However the car goes in gear with the engine off.
The master and slave are new, the clutch line is stock, never been replaced.
I had driftmotion examine my heavy act pressure plate, clutch disc and hub and all the bearing and wave washers. They said all the washers on the hub and all the parts are fine.
I was told the pushrod from the slave are the same.
The fork moves almost 85 degrees.

Thank Guys for all the suggestions, open to more