clutch issues

[jz*supra]

Alright so heres the story.
Drove my car 2 hours 2 calgary so my rev limiter could be raised from 3800 rpm to 7200. Everything was good and i made it home no issues.
I slowly started reving the car further and further and runing more and more boost. (i'm running HKS V-pro so it slowly self learns as u drive) the car was running great and makin a plenty of power.
after a second gear pull with one of my friends i went to push the clutch in and the pedal was lower than it should have been. When i engaged the clutch my car stalled.
Now every time i slightly engage my clutch i can hear and feel a ratle/grind and my cars vacum drops from -10 to -5 and the car generaly stalls.
the car drives 100% and the clutch fully engages and disengages, just grinds when u press the pedal down 1-2 inches. There are no fluids leaking and i checked the resevoir is full.
*i have a jdm 1jz supra with an rps max clutch and jun lightweight flywheel* less than 3000 miles on it with a 3800 rpm rev limiter so it aint burnt out

Thanks for the help!

 

[suprahero]

I don't know what it is, but I"ve heard a lot of people having problems with the rps clutches welding to the flywheels on hard launches. Someone with a lot more knowledge will post in here sooner or later to help you. I promise.............maybe.

 

[jz*supra]

hmm i dont like hearing that. but that clearly aint the issue as it still fully engages and disengages because i can still drive the car.

If i do have to pull the tranny i will most likely have it rebuilt. Does a stock rebuild solve the first gear issues associated with high hp 1j's? or is there a aftermarket rebuild kit i should get?

 

[mobes]

Sounds like it could be the throw out bearing

Edit: or the input shaft bearing

 

[jz*supra]

I just got back from picking my car up.
pressing the clutch down just drops my idle 300-400 rpm but it no longer makes the car stall, pressing the clutch no longer makes a grinding rattle sound, there is a very suddle rubbing sound. . I am going to have to check the master and slave cylinders but now i'm thinkin this should be a much easier fix than expected!

 

[Jostar]

Man i hope its not crankwalk...

 

[jz*supra]

is crankwalk not extremely uncommon on these cars? a 2j bottom end was planned in the future but not till next winter at the earlyst.

 

[GrimJack]

Extremely uncommon, yes. However, it's still happened a few times, and in every case that I am aware of it has been with that clutch.

A tranny rebuild will help with the high power thrust washer failures, but it won't solve it entirely.

 

[Jostar]

Extremely uncommon, yes. However, it's still happened a few times, and in every case that I am aware of it has been with that clutch.

A tranny rebuild will help with the high power thrust washer failures, but it won't solve it entirely.

That is why i did not buy a heavy pressure plate, Heavy pressure plates & cold startups don't go together, I bought a Spec twin disk for my 1jz, The Spec twin disk is not my first twin disk that i have ever owned, I used to own a 450hp Galant VR4 & it had a Quartermaster twin disk & i loved it...

 

[jz*supra]

That is why i did not buy a heavy pressure plate, Heavy pressure plates & cold startups don't go together, I bought a Spec twin disk for my 1jz, The Spec twin disk is not my first twin disk that i have ever owned, I used to own a 450hp Galant VR4 & it had a Quartermaster twin disk & i loved it...

Y does a heavy pressure plate not go well with cold start ups? I do often let my car warm up, but not for overly long. Could you elaberate on the twin disk more, I am no expert so what is the difference/advantage?
I am startin to worry about this clutch.... crankwalk and melting to flyweel on hard launches :cry:

I took the car for a good drive tonight. I beleive it is a bad master or slave cylinder. The noise and rubbing is 100% gone, the car does not stall when the clutch is in. And 3-4 times the pedal went spongy on me and lost pressure, pumping on it got it right back. Maybe i did have the car in gear when i heard the grindin and the clutch wasn't fully disengaging. I may have panicked when my clutch pedal was saging and i heard grinding from my tranny and assumed the worse.

None the less thanks for the input.
Now i may get to learn how to swap my master and slave cylinders!
What indicators should i be looking for if master or slave cylinder is bad?

 

[di_rosa]

twin discs require half the pressure that a single disc clutch requires to hold the same amount of power (because it has twice the surface area to grab or some bullshit).

you might be able to salvage it if you only grenaded the thrust washers. pull the lower pan and pull the 4th main journal and measure your thrust washers (if they're still there, they usually fall out when they get too thin). if your crank surface is ok, just slap in a new set and go, about $30 for a set.

the pedal feel could be a coincidence, whenever people throw in a heavy duty pressure plate, their old master cylinders that were barely hanging on begin to leak internally under the extra pressure required to push in the clutch.

 

[GrimJack]

The reason heavy pressure plates eat thrust washers is reasonably logical. You need to push the clutch in to start the car, so you are putting pressure on the crank. With a heavy pressure plate, you are putting a lot of pressure on the crank. Cold start is when you don't have any lubrication on the crank, so it causes excessive wear.

 

[annoyingrob]

And if you crankwalk your 1JZ, GrimJack doesn't stop making fun of you all night about it



Your JZA70 shouldn't have a clutch safety switch, so simply starting the car in neutral, with the clutch up will save your thrust washers a LOT of wear. If you start noticing your RPMs drop at idle when you push in the clutch, the crank is starting to move, and it's time to replace the thrust washers ($60 in parts, an hour of your time)

 

[GrimJack]

And if you crankwalk your 1JZ, GrimJack doesn't stop making fun of you all night about it



Your JZA70 shouldn't have a clutch safety switch, so simply starting the car in neutral, with the clutch up will save your thrust washers a LOT of wear. If you start noticing your RPMs drop at idle when you push in the clutch, the crank is starting to move, and it's time to replace the thrust washers ($60 in parts, an hour of your time)

Only if you then eat half a cookie.

 

[jz*supra]

And if you crankwalk your 1JZ, GrimJack doesn't stop making fun of you all night about it



Your JZA70 shouldn't have a clutch safety switch, so simply starting the car in neutral, with the clutch up will save your thrust washers a LOT of wear. If you start noticing your RPMs drop at idle when you push in the clutch, the crank is starting to move, and it's time to replace the thrust washers ($60 in parts, an hour of your time)

Well my rpms deffinently do drop when i push the clutch in :cry: Its been doing it ever since the rps clutch went in.

I'll have to check out the tsrm and get to it. atleast since it only requires an hour i hope its somewhat easy.

 

[Jostar]

Well my rpms deffinently do drop when i push the clutch in :cry: Its been doing it ever since the rps clutch went in.

I'll have to check out the tsrm and get to it. atleast since it only requires an hour i hope its somewhat easy.

I wish you the best & i hope it's not crankwalk, The other guys beat me to answer your question on the twin disk, trust me when i tell you i would never go back to a heavy pressure plate, It is messed up that even a 2jz can crankwalk...

 

[jz*supra]

I have the worst luck with clutches and presure plates. My first clutch was installed before the car was imported, and the imported but in a new disk but left the stock presure plate and the clutch didnt clamp and burnout after 4000km. Now it appears my second setup gave me crankwalk after ~3000km.
Hopefully replacing those washers will get me thru the year so i can drop in a 2j bottom end over the winter.
My main concern now is if it is crankwalk will i damage other components besides the bottom end? Can i drive the car till the bottom end fails? Or do i risk serious damage to the rest of my car. It would be great to know what to expect with crankwalk.

Does anyone have the part number for the thrust washers? I wanna order those washers asap.

 

[di_rosa]

crankwalk means metal particles in the oil, which means anything that uses oil (turbo's, cams, bottom end) will be grenaded.

stop driving it now, drop the lower pan, pull the 4th main journal cap, and swap out the thrust washers. yes, you can do it with it still in the car, it's just a bit tight

 

[annoyingrob]

To replace thrust washers:

- Jack up front of car so you can get underneath.
- Drain oil
- Un-bolt lower oil pan. It's a bunch of 12mm bolts, should take a few minutes.
- un-bolt metal splash-guard, and oil pickup within oil pan (another 4 bolts or so)
- look up, and you'll see the #4 main bearing cap, with the thrust washers on either side of it.
-Un-bolt the cap, and pull it off. It's two 14mm bolts, but they're on there fairly tight. You'll need a breaker bar.
-The bottom half of the thrust washers should have come off with the cap. If not, pull them off, then spin the top pieces around to get them out (you'll understand when you see it)
-Get new thrust washers, lube the face of them (the part that rubs against the crank, do not lube the back), and re-install.
-re-install bearing cap. Torque bolts to 32 ft-lbs, then give them another 90*
-put the oil pan back together, fill with oil, and you're done.

Listen to everyone when they say don't drive it the way it is. It's only going to do more damage. Mine had so much movement, the thrust washers actually fell out, and the crank ground itself against the bearing housing. I destroyed an otherwise perfectly good crank, and block.

 

[jz*supra]

Awsome!
Thanks a bunch.