Chaser 1J into 86.5

CRsupraiii

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Oct 24, 2010
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Cedar Rapids, IA
Well I've always been kind of a lurker on here, gathering info and working through my 1J swap on my own.... But I've run into a few minor problems. This is my first swap, and so far really loving the 1J mechanically, and can't wait to see how it performs. I'm keeping the stock twins, I've refreshed all of the gaskets I care to on the engine, had the harness converted by Phoenix Tuning/Tweak'd Performance (aka PM me any of you chaser guys trying to figure out wiring), did a pan swap, etc etc.

My first problem is fuel. I don't quite know what fuel line to use to run from the pump to the engine from where I disconnected the GE line under the drivers side? Perhaps JZA80 line? Your solutions would be nice.

My other problem (so far) is putting BiC brackets on? Maybe I'm just retarded... But if someone could give me precise measurements on bolts they used to attach them that would be awesome, and into which holes they were threaded? Maybe someone has a pics or threads they can point me to.

I apologize if these topics have been covered, I tried to do some extensive searching with very minimal results.

Feel free to call me or text me or whatever you want, my name is Joe, I'm from Iowa (yes it is a genuine state and people really do live here.... Honestly) any input or experiences or help is greatly appreciated!!! Thanks for reading!
 

kneedragger85

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Sep 9, 2008
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Boulder, CO
You should be able to use your stock fuel line after removing the hardline for the 7M. Then banjo bolt it to the 1JZ's dampener.

The BIC brackets leave more to be desired as I experienced. I was told I received a bad batch as I had to drill the mount holes bigger. But I ended up using 20mm long bolts with washers (I believe) which were the old flywheel bolts. The stock bolts are way too long due to the factory bracket design.

As for the bracket locations, the intake side requires that you unbolt the fuel pressure dampener to use those two holes for the engine mount and I can't remember on the exhaust side if you have to remove a stay bracket but essentially you use the most rearest holes for the engine brackets.
 

CRsupraiii

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Oct 24, 2010
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Cedar Rapids, IA
Of course I apologize for my ignorance.... But what the hell do the three wires on the (stock) O2 sensor connect to?? Harness I'm guessing but couldn't really find anything that seemed to be even remotely close....

I am also in question as to which sensor is removed from block to install the DM oil pressure sender adapter hose and sender! Pics or description would most helpful. I'm thinking it's one of the two behind the power steering pump, left side of the intake side of the engine.

Other than this the engine is coming along fairly well... About ready to drop in... :D


- Joe
Sent from my iPhone
 
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kneedragger85

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Sep 9, 2008
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Boulder, CO
The O2 sensor should have a plug that connects to the engine harness. If not, any 1993-1995 Supra turbo OBDI upstream O2 sensor will work.

Behind the A/C compressor is the 1JZ's oil pressure sender. Remove the A/C compressor and then remove the sender. The DM line screws into the old sender's hole.
 

CRsupraiii

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Oct 24, 2010
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Cedar Rapids, IA
Hey thanks a ton guys!!! Sender is sorted! Still looking for an O2 sensor, MAP sensor is in the mail, gotta throw AC compressor back on, waiting on a fan clutch exchange, gotta splice in my alternator plug... There's prolly a ton of other things left that I'm forgetting...

- Joe
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CRsupraiii

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Oct 24, 2010
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Cedar Rapids, IA
Back with more questions....

If it makes the thread any more interesting I can't see a reason why some vacuum line and some fuel return line and I can't have this baby dropped in.

On to the questions:

What does this line go to?
Pic #1
p1782523_1.jpg


The two in my hand need to be bridged here I believe
Pic #2
p1782523_2.jpg


But what about this guy? Fuel return line??
Pic #3
p1782523_3.jpg


5/16"? Runs to this (fuel return?) maybe? Located on passenger wide firewall by the visible heater core hose
Pic #4
p1782523_4.jpg


Then this goofy vacuum source. Is this the source for the MAP sensor???
Pic #5
p1782523_5.jpg


This is the lead for stock BOV, I am running aftermarket, (Synapse FTW!!) so is ok to have it capped as shown?
Pic #6
p1782523_6.jpg


Up next is oil pressure sender AGAIN. Do I need to locate a stock 7M plug end and solder into the harness?
Pic #7
p1782523_7.jpg


And finally, what does this plug connect to? It's right by the alternator. Local ground is plugged, local O2 is plugged, extending alternator plug to fill that spot, local waterneck plugs (2) are filled, but can't figure out what this connects to.
Pic #8
p1782523_8.jpg


As always, thanks for reading guys. Any input is always appreciated!






- Joe
Sent from my iPhone
 

IBoughtASupra

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Mar 10, 2009
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Queens, NY
Picture 4 is a hardline for the stock canister. If you are not using it, put on a filter.
Picture 5 Map Sensor Vacuum Source
Picture 6 Yes, you can cap unused vacuum lines put find a better way, don't use the bolts, they will pop out when you go into boost.
Picture 7 You will need to put the 7M sensor plug on the 1JZ harness.

I will let the other members chime in on the other vacuum lines as I don't know about those since I eliminated that whole nonsense of vacuum lines and did it my own way keeping in mind I was running a lot of aftermarket parts.
 

CRsupraiii

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Oct 24, 2010
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Cedar Rapids, IA
Thanks Andy!!

For pic 4 I am deleting charcoal can, so I just strap a small filter on that hard line? Do you know where the fuel return line is on the body?

For pic 6 thanks for the info, can I leave this one because it's for the disconnected stock BOV?


- Joe
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IBoughtASupra

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Mar 10, 2009
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Queens, NY
Fuel return line on the body is down by the driver side frame rail where the feed is.

You shouldn't leave vacuum lines open, just go to auto zone and get the caps with small Zip ties and use that to block the lines.
 

CRsupraiii

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Oct 24, 2010
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Cedar Rapids, IA
Sweet I'll get it hooked up.

Definitely won't leave them open! I just meant to leave that one as is seeing as it won't be seeing vacuum from the plenum.

I'll definitely pick some of those up, thanks for the tip!


- Joe
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dirosa

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Apr 9, 2011
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Toronto
pic 8 is the crank sensor located right behind the alternator (pigtail should be clipped onto the block), either that, or another vsv. they have similar plugs

the rest i don't know cause i scrapped a lot of my stock vsv's and such.
 
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CRsupraiii

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Oct 24, 2010
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Cedar Rapids, IA
Turns out pic 8 is for the hydro fan. NBD taping it up to the harness! Now I contacted Tweak'd Performance about the oil pressure sender and they are saying the stock 1J sensor will run my gauge just fine.... This is incorrect to my knowledge... Anyone have any extra input here??


- Joe
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kneedragger85

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Sep 9, 2008
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Boulder, CO
CRsupraiii;1783587 said:
Turns out pic 8 is for the hydro fan. NBD taping it up to the harness! Now I contacted Tweak'd Performance about the oil pressure sender and they are saying the stock 1J sensor will run my gauge just fine.... This is incorrect to my knowledge... Anyone have any extra input here??


- Joe
Sent from my iPhone
He probably meant he wired the plug to your oil pressure gauge so you can install a 7M sender for it to work.
 

CRsupraiii

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Oct 24, 2010
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Cedar Rapids, IA
Pic 7 is my only real issue left.... If anyone has a hacked up 7M harness and wants to sell me the oil pressure plug please PM me or post here!!!!

I believe pic 1 is for the evap system so I gotta figure out if I can delete any hosing or if I should connect like OEM and then cap off.


- Joe
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CRsupraiii

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Oct 24, 2010
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Cedar Rapids, IA
Hey guys working on mocking up my DM 3" FMIC kit for stock twins.... Any help here? The brackets don't really seem applicable... I have yet to trim the hood latch but I'll get around to it. If anyone has pics that would help out immensely... I guess I'm most in question of where to mount the brackets.


- Joe
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CRsupraiii

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Oct 24, 2010
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Cedar Rapids, IA
Still have yet to do
^^^^^^^ this... ^^^^^^^
So any help would be nice there...

But I did get an oil pressure sender plug shipped so that should be one step closer to dropping this baby in...

Still wondering how wet I want to get my feet with suspension I have eibachs and tokico blues... Control Arm Bushings? Subframe too??

I really need to get brakes on the caras well.Call me crazy but somewhere I found a Brembo set of stock size rotors and pads that came with SS lines for the MKIII but I can't seem to find the page again.... Don't really have the funds to do a BBK just need a decent stock brake setup all the way around.

Thanks


- Joe
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CRsupraiii

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Oct 24, 2010
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Cedar Rapids, IA
Compiling parts and getting ready to go back at it here when I can finally get some time off of work. I got an oil pressure sender plug, I have an O2, so the motor should be ready to drop once I solder in a few plugs. Also if anyone has alternator plug wiring info I'd love to talk!!!

On a much less boneriffic note I STILL have yet to mount the intercooler >:O

... and I need to swap diffs...

I've heard oven cleaner works well, as well as soapy water and toilet brushes for scrubbing the engine bay, but does anyone else have other input? I don't have access to a pressure washer, and I may have to do this inside as per Iowa+Winter=Fail.


- Joe
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