car just keep boosting till it hits fuel cut. no boost mods
- Thread starter supraking16
- Start date
My friend told me car shoots flames sometimes when I hit fuel cut or shift real hard isn't that running to rich
I would be worried if you're running 12.5 afr under full boost. That's a little lean, you should ideally be around 11.2-11.5. Maybe clean your AFM? Then check your wastegate lines. One of my bolts holding the wastegate to my housing stripped once causing overboost. Maybe swap wastegates? I don't know man. That's a weird issue.
As far as riching out when you shift, that's normal for atmosphere vented cars.
Ok well I found a boost leak that fixed the sputtering like fuel cut thing so now it hits ten pounds smooth and stays at ten pounds as for afr I found a few leaky spots on the snorkle that would def cause that. In first at full boost it runs eleven afr and in second it runs eleven.2 and for some reason in fifth it just gets a little leaner maybe like twelve and stays there but now it runs smooth and double checked the waste and everything even the line I took and presurized in water to see little bubble but no bubbles and I tightened all the clamps even tighter. But it does run ten pounds like I want so ill leave it alone till I get my front mount which is very soon.
mecevans;1786318 said:
Not only never never never spray anything into it but do NOT use a pre-oiled filter unless you love problems with your afm system.
I've read on here somewhere and I'll try to look for it, pre-oiled filters such as the K&N filter destroys the very sensitive AFM.
I don't mean destroys as like as soon as you turn the key, boom. I mean will slowly kill it over time. The filter oil puts a very light coat of oil film over the afm's sensors, possibly altering the readings sent to the ecu.
I don't mean destroys as like as soon as you turn the key, boom. I mean will slowly kill it over time. The filter oil puts a very light coat of oil film over the afm's sensors, possibly altering the readings sent to the ecu.
Last edited:
ok ill purchase a aem dry flow filter form where work todya bc i do run a k&n and i know not to clean i have extra afms from learning the hard way so i bought like two extras for the future until i go standalone one day. also i'm ordering a front mount to get rid of all the old ic pipes and rewiring my knock sensrors. i think i might have figured out why it hits ten pounds i just havent looked into it yet. the last time i had he turbo off the car was when i put the cams in and alot of other stuff. i kinda wonder if maybe the actuator got hit and maybe bent it out slightly making it not open up far enough. but i'll look into it.
Well bad news I guess someone else wanted to solve my problem. I got rear ended today just left the hosp and the car is prob totalled so ill prob have some low mileage camshafts from crower and cam gears and and stuff for sale maybe.
So sorry to hear that bro... are you ok? It always sucks to hear another one of our cars bites the dust....
well my car might be fixable, bc i love that car. but my neck hurtw pretty bad i was hit by an old truck. that weighedalot but either way ill either fix it or buy another one. and swap all the parts. but i believe it could be fixed but the taillight assembly is screwed and i think there hard to find. ill see in a few days. but my dad said the door was hard to shut which mean it could have abent frame a little which sucks. but ill keep everyone posted. i was just aboutto prdera bunch of stufff for it too.
they have insurance but i have alot more in that car that the insurancecompany will not reemburse me. so ill try tp gut it before they get the car
You are not a fault here, you dont have to be screwed over. Do not sign ANYTHING if you feel you are not being fairly compensated. If the car is totaled they should release the car to you and pay for the value of the car.