brake problem...

[bobpogoman]

when i was rolling with my car after a while the brake pedal was starting to brake at lower and lower position till the car dosent brake... so i decided to change the master cylinder.

now im trying to bleed the brake system i bleeded the master cylinder, then when im bleeding the lines, i broke a bleeder. i heard that i can still bleed the line by loosing the hose going to caliper, i did so the 2 1st time oil was "squirting" then now, theres only 3-4drops,like if the cylinder wasnt building any pressure. i checked the lines and i have no leaks.

any hints? cant be the brake booster?

note:the car is a.b.s.

 

[bobpogoman]

i havnt bleeded any other cylinders yet, im flushing the oil, so i want to bleed the rear right as said, until the new fluid comes out. how can i do it ?? i dont have any bleeder pump im doing it 2 man way one pump then hold pedal to floor then open bleeder etc...

with the 3-4 drops it will take eternity to bleed the 4 calipers till new fluis and to pressurise.

must i get a brake bleeder to flush the old fluid?

 

[dumbo]

Fix the broken bleeder, make sure you keep the resivoir full.

 

[TurboStreetCar]

make sure you keep the resivoir full.

Check the simple things first make sure you still have brake fluid in the master. when doing a flush like that its easy to loose track.

 

[bobpogoman]

i cant remove it, and the car is at gf house, cant let it there real long, must be able to drive it home.

update: reservois always full, i just bought a brake bleeder pump type, opened the rear left bleeder to try it, when i pump it goes to -15 vac but if i stop the vac start to go to 0 in like 5 second.

like if i had a leak... but cant find any leaks.

since its abs is there nething that couldmake the system block the brake lines? i think it could be taking air from the bleeder filets. theres some oil in the line from bleeder like 5ml and theres some bubble coming from it.

 

[dumbo]

FIX THE BROKEN BLEEDER!!!!

What the hell is a brake bleeder pump, and before you answer, you don't need it.

 

[bobpogoman]

for the 2nd time ill say it, i cant fix the bleeder now i must move my car from where it is and dont wanna pay tow..

brake bleeder pump is a 1 man bleeder where u pump oil from the bleeder so you dont have to pump the pedal.. way easier like this.

actually im not sure of something, when i try to bleed the master cylinder it seems like i cant do it.

i press the pedal slowly without the lines on, then i block both holes with my finger and release the pedal slowly, but when i do this i get a lot of suction from the hole closest to the firewall and when i remove my finger it grabs air from there. isnt it supposed to get some oil from the reservoir and then when i press pedal back it blow it, then get more oil till no air?

actually i can get just a little bit of oil off the master when i press the pedal.

 

[Kevin]

which bleeder screw did you break? if its the rear ones. just bleed the front brakes and see if you have adequate braking power to drive home. ckeck if you see any leaks (dripping brake fluid from anywhere.. ) if you bleed the fronts right. you should have good braking power still.. bleed all the other wheels to gt as much air out as possible. you'll still have braking power. make suure you spray penetrating fluid before you crack open then bleeder screws because they can be rusted pretty good. also to bleed your brakes.. you dont need any fancy gizmos.. just get a friend to pump the brakes and hold it down for you while you crack open the bleeder... then shut it and repeat.

 

[bobpogoman]

ok, but i tried to bleed the rear left wheel, with the vacuum pump, i get it to -20 and nothing come out, it fall to 0 after a while (from the bleeder filets) but theres still no oil coming out even if i pump for 5 mins.

also, i tried to put a hose from bleeder to a jar of brake fluid, then PRESS the pedal to floor, theres nothing, no oil no bubbles nothing. like if the cylinder wasnt pushing any oil.

also as i said, if i plug the both holes in mc, then release pedal, it make a lot of suction, when i remove my fingers it grabs a lot of air, instead of taking the oil from the oil reservoir.

how can my brake work if its not taking oil from it? i bench bleeded the mc, its taking oil from the jar, then i press it throw some bubbles, did it like 15 times till no bubbles so the cylinder is completly filled with oil, no air inside.

so when i install the lines and press the pedal some oil came out of the rear bleeder,then clos it, release pedal then i think it takes air from the not yet bleeded brake lines instead of taking oil from the reservoir.

whatever i do the reservoir lvl havnt dropped a little yet.

 

[rayall01]

Did you bench bleed the master? That has to be done before anything else.

 

[bobpogoman]

yes, put the 2 plastic fittings on the mc, with 2 little clear hoses going to a jar with oil in it, filling the reservoir then pushing the piston with a screw driver till theres no air bubbles, i did it (mc not on the car)

still cant find the problem.

 

[rayall01]

Hook up those hoses again, and put the hose in the reservoir. Fill the reservoir to the top, and slowly pump the pedal until all the air is gone. Then reconnect the lines, and try bleeding again. Right rear, left rear, right front, left front. Don't use the vacuum bleeder if you can possibly avoid it. The best method of one man bleeding is a pressure bleeder, but you need an air compressor to use one, and they're quite expensive. I have never liked vacuum bleeding, as air can get in through the bleeder screw threads.

 

[rayall01]

Also, trace the lines to the ABS unit, and bleed the lines where they go into the ABS, and where they come out and feed back into the main brake lines. do this before you bleed the calipers. Air can get trapped in the ABS unit.

 

[IJ.]

Hook up those hoses again, and put the hose in the reservoir. Fill the reservoir to the top, and slowly pump the pedal until all the air is gone. Then reconnect the lines, and try bleeding again. Right rear, left rear, right front, left front. Don't use the vacuum bleeder if you can possibly avoid it. The best method of one man bleeding is a pressure bleeder, but you need an air compressor to use one, and they're quite expensive. I have never liked vacuum bleeding, as air can get in through the bleeder screw threads.

Not if used correctly, you never let the pump 0 out so it's still pulling a vacuum before you close the bleeder = no air.

 

[bobpogoman]

ok but how i bleed hte line going to abs unit? theres no bleeder...

and why if i loosen the bleeder and press the pedal theres no air nada niet coming out of the bleeder? even with the line full of air, it should come out.

it does come out the 1st pedal press, as theres oil in the mc, but then when i retract the peal and press it again, nada. exactly if the oil from reservoir wasnt going inside mc.

i asked a friend that has been a mechanic for like 1 year (not much but better then me)

he bleeded many mc by putting fingers on holes when retracting pedal, and the oil from the reservoir was always coming down a little, and there was no suction from the hole.

giving up for today, will continue tomorrow.

 

[rayall01]

Not if used correctly, you never let the pump 0 out so it's still pulling a vacuum before you close the bleeder = no air.

I've seen it happen, IJ. I stick with what Ive seen with my own eyes.

 

[IJ.]

I've seen it happen, IJ. I stick with what Ive seen with my own eyes.

I don't care what you've "seen" happen with your own eyes if it's used correctly how can air get past a vacuum that's present right up until you close the bleeder?

I did this shit for a living as a kid so actually have a clue.

I'm fast getting to the "don't give a fuck" point and just won't bother correcting anymore of the misinformation and bullshit here and it can turn into a fucking joke like Supra Forums.

 

[rayall01]

ok but how i bleed hte line going to abs unit? theres no bleeder...

and why if i loosen the bleeder and press the pedal theres no air nada niet coming out of the bleeder? even with the line full of air, it should come out.

it does come out the 1st pedal press, as theres oil in the mc, but then when i retract the peal and press it again, nada. exactly if the oil from reservoir wasnt going inside mc.

i asked a friend that has been a mechanic for like 1 year (not much but better then me)

he bleeded many mc by putting fingers on holes when retracting pedal, and the oil from the reservoir was always coming down a little, and there was no suction from the hole.

giving up for today, will continue tomorrow.

Break loose the flare nuts, and bleed it from there. I'm basically trying to get you to start over again, and do it in the correct steps. bleeding the ABS, is just to be sure there's no air trapped there, like a just in case measure. I'm just trying to cover all the bases.

 

[IJ.]

Break loose the flare nuts, and bleed it from there. I'm basically trying to get you to start over again, and do it in the correct steps. bleeding the ABS, is just to be sure there's no air trapped there, like a just in case measure. I'm just trying to cover all the bases.

You have an issue with vacuum bleeding yet you're advocating breaking the flare nuts loose?

WTF... :nono:

enough dude

 

[rayall01]

I don't care what you've "seen" happen with your own eyes if it's used correctly how can air get past a vacuum that's present right up until you close the bleeder?

I did this shit for a living as a kid so actually have a clue.

I'm fast getting to the "don't give a fuck" point and just won't bother correcting anymore of the misinformation and bullshit here and it can turn into a fucking joke like Supra Forums.

I've done this for a living too, IJ. I've been working on machinery of all kinds, since I was 8 years old, helping my dad put engines in volkswagons. Been an auto mechanic, a motorcycle mechanic, an aircraft mechanic, (USAF), and a washing machine mechanic at various times in my life. As far as the vacuum goes, I'm talking about air getting into the vacuum, through the bleeder and interfering with the efficiency of the pump, not getting back into the brakes. Different bleeder screws, are built to different tolerances, and some can let too much air in for vacuum bleeding to be efficient. That's why I don't like them. Pressure bleeding is far more efficient.