I'm looking all over for replacements for the rear brake dust shields on my 89 supra. New ones are over $600 for the pair, not worth it. I finally found a solution that anyone can easily use. I picked up two air cleaner holders from older chevy pickups - the smaller ones, not the full size, with carbureted engines. The lower part of the aircleaner holder is a bit heavier guage than the stock dust shields, just the right diameter, and has just the right profile. It can be cut to fit. I cut out the weld points of the old dust shields to the ebrake mounting plate with a mill, and I will weld or screw the newly cut parts in their places. I got two of the aircleaner holders, and some other stuff, for just $25 at a upick salvage yard.
brake dust shield solution found
- Thread starter Victor Charlie
- Start date
http://suprabrakeshieldfabrication.shutterfly.com/pictures#n_5
---------- Post added at 04:48 AM ---------- Previous post was at 04:44 AM ----------
---------- Post added at 04:48 AM ---------- Previous post was at 04:44 AM ----------
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So this is the procedure. Go to the first link above for the step by step picture album.
1) First cut old dust shield off the ebrake backing plate. it is held on by spot welds. I removed these with a mill. It helps a lot to preserve some of the original inner margin of the dust shield to help make a template
2) precut a piece of cardboard (shirtboard or poster board is good) into a rough circle that will fit inside the old dust shield. Trace the outline of the inner margins of the dust shield onto cardboard and cut the cardboard to make a template. Keep the inside piece.
3) Now working on the new part, take the bottom portion of an air cleaner holder from an old, light duty Chevy pickup. This should have the same outer diameter as the dust shield. It also has a round indented margin in the middle that perfectly matches toe diameter of the brake backing plate minus dust shield. This is very handy for lining up the finished dust shield for welding. First precut to remove the folded back rim on the inner and outer margins of the air cleaner base. this allows easier cutting with tin snips. Also remove the inner dividers (I just bent them back and forth until the broke off.)
4) Mark guide lines: put the old dust shield over the outside of the air cleaner holder rotate so the indented section lines up with an indented part of the dust shield. pencil mark the inner and radial margins by eyeballing the edges of the old part. then use your template to make more precise guide lines. IF making two parts don't forget to reverse the template for the second part. For cutting the new shield to the desired depth/height, turn it so the convex surface is down on a flat table, secure a pencil horizontally on the table raised to the desired height but resting it on a stack of flat objects. Hold the pencil tip still and rotate the air cleaner to mark a guide line. The total height off the table of the new dust shield, should be about 1 cm above the surface that will be welded to the brake backing plate.
5) using a metal cutting wheel make the radial cuts to cut out the air inlet duct and to make the radial margins of the finished part. Then use tin snips to cut on guide lines to finish the shape of the new part. clean up the edges with you favorite tools. I use the same grinding bits used for porting/polishing my head.
6) buff off any residual paint from welding surfaces before welding. Also clean up the brake backing plate with a wire wheel or shot peen, but be careful not to damage or alter the any mounting surfaces for moving components.
7) Line up drill small holes in the new dust shield and part way into the ebrake backing plate, but not through it.
8) be sure you have both right and lef sispot weld all around, then grind, sandblast, and deburr, then paint as desired.
9) Miller time!
1) First cut old dust shield off the ebrake backing plate. it is held on by spot welds. I removed these with a mill. It helps a lot to preserve some of the original inner margin of the dust shield to help make a template
2) precut a piece of cardboard (shirtboard or poster board is good) into a rough circle that will fit inside the old dust shield. Trace the outline of the inner margins of the dust shield onto cardboard and cut the cardboard to make a template. Keep the inside piece.
3) Now working on the new part, take the bottom portion of an air cleaner holder from an old, light duty Chevy pickup. This should have the same outer diameter as the dust shield. It also has a round indented margin in the middle that perfectly matches toe diameter of the brake backing plate minus dust shield. This is very handy for lining up the finished dust shield for welding. First precut to remove the folded back rim on the inner and outer margins of the air cleaner base. this allows easier cutting with tin snips. Also remove the inner dividers (I just bent them back and forth until the broke off.)
4) Mark guide lines: put the old dust shield over the outside of the air cleaner holder rotate so the indented section lines up with an indented part of the dust shield. pencil mark the inner and radial margins by eyeballing the edges of the old part. then use your template to make more precise guide lines. IF making two parts don't forget to reverse the template for the second part. For cutting the new shield to the desired depth/height, turn it so the convex surface is down on a flat table, secure a pencil horizontally on the table raised to the desired height but resting it on a stack of flat objects. Hold the pencil tip still and rotate the air cleaner to mark a guide line. The total height off the table of the new dust shield, should be about 1 cm above the surface that will be welded to the brake backing plate.
5) using a metal cutting wheel make the radial cuts to cut out the air inlet duct and to make the radial margins of the finished part. Then use tin snips to cut on guide lines to finish the shape of the new part. clean up the edges with you favorite tools. I use the same grinding bits used for porting/polishing my head.
6) buff off any residual paint from welding surfaces before welding. Also clean up the brake backing plate with a wire wheel or shot peen, but be careful not to damage or alter the any mounting surfaces for moving components.
7) Line up drill small holes in the new dust shield and part way into the ebrake backing plate, but not through it.
8) be sure you have both right and lef sispot weld all around, then grind, sandblast, and deburr, then paint as desired.
9) Miller time!
hate to revive a dead thread, but i love this, I have two such lower air cleaner housings sitting around from my 78 chevy pickup, as i don't feel like being raped for a set of dust covers I'm definitely giving this a try
none in my area, no supras to be found, plus the most help i've found on here is "cut them off you don't need them lol i think this is a very inventive way to save a couple hundred bucks, like the ford ranger carrier bearing