Best oil for the 7mgte

bovvinsuprahiro

New Member
Jul 12, 2008
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Lincoln, ne
I am just getting a new turbo now that mine is blown and gonna swap plugs and do a little maintainance on her while she is down. Thinking about doing in engine flush and want to upgrade from the cheap shit and find out wat everyone is running and having good performance with.
 

bovvinsuprahiro

New Member
Jul 12, 2008
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Lincoln, ne
i also read Mobil 1 is coming out with racing oil in spring of this year as spring/summer semi daily would this racing oil be over kill or bad for my MkIII. I will race it and play around but I will also go to the store in it.
 

zachm611

Beauty In Disguise
Apr 15, 2006
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new mexico
bovvinsuprahiro;1230765 said:
Castrol makes tones of oil can you be a little more narrow like GTX or Full SYN i dont know wat German Castrol is to American Castrol.

I dont think you can get german castrol any more. i believe it is called the european formula now. however it is a full synthetic 0w30 look for castrol syntec 0w30 should say european formula on it.
 

jdub

Official SM Expert: Motor Oil, Lubricants & Fil
SM Expert
Feb 10, 2006
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Valley of the Sun
#1 - Mobil 1 is not a "full synthetic". It is a Grp III hydrocracked base stock...for the price you pay there are better alternatives. If you want to use a Grp III oil, Pennzoil Platinum 5W-30 is a far better oil.

#2 - "German Castrol" is the nickname for Castrol European Formula 0W-30...it gets it's nickname from the "Made in Germany" found on the back label. GC (Grp IV), Red Line (Grp V) and Royal Purple (Grp IV) are the only true synthetic oils you can commonly find on the parts store shelves. AutoZone and Pep Boys carries GC...it is not discontinued.

#3 - You want an oil with the lowest 1st number (i.e. 0W or 5W) you can find for the best cold flow possible. The 7M and JZ series motors were designed for a 30W oil, so you want a 0W-30 or 5W-30 oil with a ops temp (100 deg C) viscosity in the 10-12 cst range.

#4 - I use German Castrol 0W-30...it's the best bang for the buck out there IMO. You Mobil 1 guys are paying top dollar for a middle of the road oil. And, it's not a true synthetic.

#5 - To the OP...do an engine flush at your own risk. Unless you have a sludge problem, it is a waste of $$$...so are any additives you find on the parts store shelves. This is the extent of the spoon feeding you will get and is the max I will "dumb it down"...posts without relatively intelligent questions in the Lube section (which I moderate) will simply be deleted. You will have to read and learn. ;)

I'm going to single this comment out for special attention:
87tomanymods;1230725 said:
mobile 1 is pretty much the standard as far as weight heavyier offers more protection and lighter offers less drag maby a few more hp

<LOL at Mobil 1 "the standard"> That is one of the most inaccurate statements one can make about oil...it illustrates complete ignorance of how oil works inside an internal combustion engine. In short, heavier weight oils in a motor resist flow and is why you get higher pressures when used. Lower flow is not good for hydrodynamic bearings (like the rods and mains)...it does not offer more protection, but just the opposite. It also increases friction in the motor due to the higher viscosity and will result in less HP and decreased gas mileage. If you want to know why, read the Motor Oil 101 - Dr AE Haas link in my sig.
 

deabionni

The Lurker
Sep 16, 2007
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Kalkaska, MI
:withstupi

Listen to Jdub. He knows what he's talking about when it comes to oil.

I guarantee you that he's forgotten more about motor oils than you or I will probably ever learn.
 

bovvinsuprahiro

New Member
Jul 12, 2008
62
0
0
Lincoln, ne
jdub;1230806 said:
#1 - Mobil 1 is not a "full synthetic". It is a Grp III hydrocracked base stock...for the price you pay there are better alternatives. If you want to use a Grp III oil, Pennzoil Platinum 5W-30 is a far better oil.

#2 - "German Castrol" is the nickname for Castrol European Formula 0W-30...it gets it's nickname from the "Made in Germany" found on the back label. GC (Grp IV), Red Line (Grp V) and Royal Purple (Grp IV) are the only true synthetic oils you can commonly find on the parts store shelves. AutoZone and Pep Boys carries GC...it is not discontinued.

#3 - You want an oil with the lowest 1st number (i.e. 0W or 5W) you can find for the best cold flow possible. The 7M and JZ series motors were designed for a 30W oil, so you want a 0W-30 or 5W-30 oil with a ops temp (100 deg C) viscosity in the 10-12 cst range.

#4 - I use German Castrol 0W-30...it's the best bang for the buck out there IMO. You Mobil 1 guys are paying top dollar for a middle of the road oil. And, it's not a true synthetic.

#5 - To the OP...do an engine flush at your own risk. Unless you have a sludge problem, it is a waste of $$$...so are any additives you find on the parts store shelves. This is the extent of the spoon feeding you will get and is the max I will "dumb it down"...posts without relatively intelligent questions in the Lube section (which I moderate) will simply be deleted. You will have to read and learn.

I'm going to single this comment out for special attention:


<LOL at Mobil 1 "the standard"> That is one of the most inaccurate statements one can make about oil...it illustrates complete ignorance of how oil works inside an internal combustion engine. In short, heavier weight oils in a motor resist flow and is why you get higher pressures when used. Lower flow is not good for hydrodynamic bearings (like the rods and mains)...it does not offer more protection, but just the opposite. It also increases friction in the motor due to the higher viscosity and will result in less HP and decreased gas mileage. If you want to know why, read the Motor Oil 101 - Dr AE Haas link in my sig.



Well thank you everyone for the info that was the answer I was looking for.
 

bovvinsuprahiro

New Member
Jul 12, 2008
62
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Lincoln, ne
ok sorry one more Question.. I was reading about air filters and people knocking on K&N I have K&N intake that came with the car and have been told that are a good brand I also have been running a K&N oil fliter. Is that a better brand in general or if I go with this GC is that a better combo people prefer?... as far as oil filters go. And wat is the issue with a K&N Air intake?
 

jdub

Official SM Expert: Motor Oil, Lubricants & Fil
SM Expert
Feb 10, 2006
10,730
1
38
Valley of the Sun
GC is a specific oil.

For oil filters: Wix, NAPA Gold, or PureOne. I prefer Wix (NAPA Gold is made by Wix) due to the bypass valve design and it is an excellent filter. More info here:
http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=42763

K&N air filters are crap. #1 - they don't filter worth a damn and #2 - the oil can damage the optical sensor on the Karman Vortex AFM found on the 7M-GTE. An AEM DryFlow is a far better choice.

deabionni - ;)
 

bovvinsuprahiro

New Member
Jul 12, 2008
62
0
0
Lincoln, ne
jdub;1230819 said:
For oil filters: Wix, NAPA Gold, or PureOne. I prefer Wix (NAPA Gold is made by Wix) due to the bypass valve design and it is an excellent filter. More info here:
http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=42763

K&N air filters are crap. #1 - they don't filter worth a damn and #2 - the oil can damage the optical sensor on the Karman Vortex AFM found on the 7M-GTE. An AEM DryFlow is a far better choice.

deabionni - ;)

I just got a Lexus upgrade will this change anything with wat i should run?
 

Kangae

Buzzin' Half Dozen
Sep 13, 2007
249
0
0
Utica, New York
Like the Lexus AFM (not sure what else you could be talking about)? Shouldn't be any difference in oil or oil filter, and if you are asking about air filter, I believe no difference there either (as far as brands).