Battery relocation help!

[allen600]

So I am in the middle of relocating my battery in my 89 na targa shell (2jzgte vvti swapped) but I have run into a few questions

First:
so i have ordered this switch and installed it and I'm starting to wire everything in, i was told to get this switch because i can also cut power to my alternator, only problem is with this one and also the moroso one (http://www.jegs.com/i/Moroso/710/74102/10002/-1) they both show a 20 amp max for the alternator plug, am i reading something or understanding this wrong? don't the 2j alternators put out like 75 or 90 amps?

http://www.taylorvertex.com/Support/pdfs/MANUAL-307113474.pdf

Second:
As stated in the NHRA general rule book the box must be mounted to the frame or frame structure, I'm wondering how people have mounted their boxes? I'm thinking of dropping the tank and mounting it almost over the fuel level sending unit access panel in the hatch.. Anything helps!

 

[hvyman]

Are you going to be drag racing where it is nessessary to go by mhra rules?

The battery cut off switch you posted a link to has a amp rating of 300A continious. So it is fine.

 

[Busted_Knuckles]

I also clicked the link and found a 300A continuous switch, 2,000Amp intermittent (PN 74102). I think I found your Moroso 20A switch (PN 74100), but the description clearly says for non-alternator applications. You could go with the the JEGS PN 10305. It is rated at 125A continuous and cheaper than the Moroso 20A switch.

 

[allen600]

i bought the taylor part number 1033 i was just referencing a morose one that had the same 20 amp stud as the taylor, i think what i might do is wire the alternator signal to the little stud, if thats killed the alternator will not put power out, so i believe, i will test tomorrow on the bench and see what happens before i make any finalized decisions on how to wire it.

 

[SiberianDVM]

I need to mount a kill switch in my 89 NA as part of the ChumpCar build, so I'm interested in how you are doing yours. I did mount one in a 84 Porsche 911 a year ago, and the hardest part was determining which wire killed the alternator. Have you identified it yet in your Supra?

 

[BabylonDown]

Keep the pictures and details flowing so I don't have to remake a thread like this in a month.

 

[scottiedawg66]

what battery box are you using? I cannot lend any advice, so I am also watching this this tread.

 

[Busted_Knuckles]

I looked at the wiring diagram, and think you need to rethink the wiring you're planning. Run the alternator wire directly to the battery. Run a jumper from the 1/2" lug to the battery to the 3/16" as shown in the diagram. Run the large wire from the other switch 1/2" lug to the starter, and run the other 3/16" stud to the wire harness for ignition and accessories, not to exceed 20 amp max service. That way, you flip the switch, all power to the ignition, accessories, and starter are cut off and kills the engine. Wiring the alternator to only the small lug will provide no path for power to the battery unless you provide the jumper as well.

 

[SiberianDVM]

I spent most of the weekend dropping the fuel tank for cleaning. What a PIA. While I'm there, I'm replacing the fuel filter, the fuel pump, and the broken sending unit.

Also, this gave me acccess to the area rearward of the sending unit access panel for the battery box mount. That went OK.

Where on the front firewall are you planning on running the + wire to the starter?

 

[jdmfreak]

I looked at the wiring diagram, and think you need to rethink the wiring you're planning. Run the alternator wire directly to the battery. Run a jumper from the 1/2" lug to the battery to the 3/16" as shown in the diagram. Run the large wire from the other switch 1/2" lug to the starter, and run the other 3/16" stud to the wire harness for ignition and accessories, not to exceed 20 amp max service. That way, you flip the switch, all power to the ignition, accessories, and starter are cut off and kills the engine. Wiring the alternator to only the small lug will provide no path for power to the battery unless you provide the jumper as well.

No, small wire goes to the alternator activation wire so when you flip the switch the alternator doesn't keep the car running, the alternator other than that is still hooked up like stock,

 

[allen600]

Which wire am I suppose to run to the small lug? The alternator has three wires running to the oval plug labeled "S"
"IG"
"L"
Should I use one of them to run to the small lug?

I got the box mounted.


As well as the kill switch.

 

[nathaninwa]

Double check, but I think its the L wire. Which ever one is connected to the dash light. And like JDMFreak said, your only switching the alternator on power, so only a few amps is needed. On my install, I found the wire from the dash that would have gone to the alternator, cut the wire there at the firewall, ran it back to the switch, then back forward again. So four independent wires will be hooked up to the switch, nothing is jumpered at the switch itself.

You never know when you and your buddies might hit the track, and they test for this.

 

[allen600]

I'm kind of confused, could you explain the wire routing? I guess I'm not sure how the wires are ran I can just see them coming off of the plug, if I understand right the "l" wire goes from the alternator plug directly to the dash board light to trigger on the "check battery light" ?

 

[nathaninwa]

I'll send you a picture.

 

[SiberianDVM]

I'll send you a picture.

Please post it or send it to me too, as I am electrically challenged.

 

[allen600]

Got everything mounted and wired, flip the switch the lights turn on flip it off or trip breaker and they go off, good sign! I can't start the car to fully test it because I don't have a turbo yet : / but here's how it is now