well, im going to school to become ase certifed and hopefully work for toyota,
so with that being said, i have also ran into the same delima as you, except i have read alot on the swap,
as for the swap, you will need the following..
clutch pedal assembly,
brake pedal assembly,
clutch master + clutch slave,
hydrolic lines inbetween the slave and master. along with flex lines.
5spd tranny (perferably a turbo r154((400+ friendly) tranny if any , but w58((good for roughly 300-350rwhp)) works if you source one from a 7mge)
tranny brace's the 2 tranny wings that help mount motor to tranny, and the rear tranny brace that keeps her arse tucked up in there..
5spd drive line, to go along with tranny choice, not sure if length or splin is different..
shifter, shifter bushings,
new or decent shift boot,
clutch, flywheel, and pressure plate. i would not reccomend using a used set up, because you could have a bad used clutch, chatter, slipage, rough engagment/disengagement.
but then again, if you get the flywheel and cluch and pressure plate out of the same car, it is possible to run it as is, untill it goes out.
you will also need to jump the neutral start switch, so your ecu thinks your always in neutral, im pretty sure when it's in neutral the ecu fuel maps aren't modified for shift points like they are for the a/t so the jumper wire creates fuel maps more like that of the m/t's cars..
most this should be right, other then the fuel maps, i took a gues at that, because when your in neutral you really dont need shift points/fuel curve adjustments for shift's...