I am in the proccess of replacing the bgh on my 7mgte. I have looked in all 14 pages in the 7m-gte tech duscussion category (titles only) and havent found this topic debated. i have searched and seen that i have a choice of studs or head bolts... i have read somewhere that if i do studs i will need to pull out the engine. is this true? also i have read that i wont have to pull the head off again and re torque the studs compared to having to re-torque the head bolts. Right now i have most of the hoses and parts removed from my engine. My next steps that i will depend on the responses i get. Your advice is greatly appreciated.
Arp Studs vs. Bolts..need advice
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you do NOT need to remove the engine to put head studs in, and both the bolts and the studs need to be retorqued after 5 heat cycles.
i am in the process of fixing a BHG with ARP headstuds and a felpro HG, only pulled the head, block and everything else is still in ther car.
my advice is, if you have an engine lift, just pull the head off the car w/ everything on it, turbo/mani, intake, etc. just unhook everything that connects it to the block, knock sensor wires, coolant lines, vac lines, engine harness, fuel lines, etc. and lift the head off the block w/ the engine lift.
i am in the process of fixing a BHG with ARP headstuds and a felpro HG, only pulled the head, block and everything else is still in ther car.
my advice is, if you have an engine lift, just pull the head off the car w/ everything on it, turbo/mani, intake, etc. just unhook everything that connects it to the block, knock sensor wires, coolant lines, vac lines, engine harness, fuel lines, etc. and lift the head off the block w/ the engine lift.
dro you have a tear down thread of what your doing? i could show you what i have done on my car.i could pm the link to my album on myspace.
unfortunately i didnt make a thread for it. im doin it for a local, i've done it a couple times now lol.
if you have an questions you could PM me, or just post em up here so future BHG fixers have another reference.
if you have an questions you could PM me, or just post em up here so future BHG fixers have another reference.
kotu100;1327047 said:
so im going to work on my car for this long weekend and i'll keep your advice in mind about not having to take the entire engine out. Also what is a heat cylce?
- Studs provide a more consistent clamping force vs bolts
- If studs are used, the block holes will need to be chased and threads cleaned 1st.
- You can install studs with the engine in the car - the easiest way is to place the head on the block (the index pins will align) with the stud washers already in place over the head holes. Screw the studs in from the top finger tight.
- To do it right, pre-load needs to to be set correctly...click on "Using a Torque Wrench" on the left:
http://www.arp-bolts.com/Tech/TechInstall.html (step 1)
- Torque to ARP spec (80 ft/lbs w/ moly lube), using the TSRM pattern in 15 ft/lb increments. During the pre-load drill, I go to 75 ft/lbs and then set 80 ft/lbs on the last cycle.
- A re-torque is up to you...setting pre-load pretty much removes the requirement. If you do not or if you use bolts, you need to re-torque after 5 heat cycles (complete engine warm-up/cool down cycles). You will also need to check the timing belt tensioner after about 500 miles or so.
- If studs are used, the block holes will need to be chased and threads cleaned 1st.
- You can install studs with the engine in the car - the easiest way is to place the head on the block (the index pins will align) with the stud washers already in place over the head holes. Screw the studs in from the top finger tight.
- To do it right, pre-load needs to to be set correctly...click on "Using a Torque Wrench" on the left:
http://www.arp-bolts.com/Tech/TechInstall.html (step 1)
- Torque to ARP spec (80 ft/lbs w/ moly lube), using the TSRM pattern in 15 ft/lb increments. During the pre-load drill, I go to 75 ft/lbs and then set 80 ft/lbs on the last cycle.
- A re-torque is up to you...setting pre-load pretty much removes the requirement. If you do not or if you use bolts, you need to re-torque after 5 heat cycles (complete engine warm-up/cool down cycles). You will also need to check the timing belt tensioner after about 500 miles or so.