Anyone have boost cut when its cold?
- Thread starter Nalleywhacker
- Start date
I swapped mine over to one from a 2jz a while ago and it didn't help me out. What you will need is a Greddy boost cut controller or and after-market ECU
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Chaz
Guest
I can tell you that I had no problems with boost cut running on a dyno tuned SAFC, even when it spiked occasionally at 17-18 PSI. My problem started after I installed the bigger "Y" pipe and innercooler. It was worse in colder weather. At the Dyno, we found that it would cut every time betwen 5500-5800 RPM, even after the way off fuel settings were corrected.
I did a lot of research and found that most of the smart people highly discouraged the use of a boost cut controler. They said that eliminates one of the best safety devices your ECU has to keep you from blowing your engine. They said to use a 2jz MAF sensor because it will read higher boost levels than a 1JZ Maf, which only accurately reads up to around 14-15 PSI where the 2jz Maf will read accurately over 20 PSI.
If you put a 2JZ Maf on your car and still experience boost cut, you need to have it dyno'd because it's possible your fuel settings are off and your ECU is trying to save your engines life.
OK, you guys can bash me now but all I can tell you is that it worked for me.
I did a lot of research and found that most of the smart people highly discouraged the use of a boost cut controler. They said that eliminates one of the best safety devices your ECU has to keep you from blowing your engine. They said to use a 2jz MAF sensor because it will read higher boost levels than a 1JZ Maf, which only accurately reads up to around 14-15 PSI where the 2jz Maf will read accurately over 20 PSI.
If you put a 2JZ Maf on your car and still experience boost cut, you need to have it dyno'd because it's possible your fuel settings are off and your ECU is trying to save your engines life.
OK, you guys can bash me now but all I can tell you is that it worked for me.
Are you talking about swapping the map sensor for a 2jz one? that's not very clever considering they are both 5.0v and will hit boost cut the same level. Do a search on toymods australia, it's been tried, tested and proven false.
http://www.toymods.net/forums/showthread.php?p=606817
http://www.toymods.net/forums/showthread.php?p=606817
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Chaz
Guest
I did this a while back, when it was being talked up. And it was on the Aussie forums that I learned about it. All I can tell you is that once it went on, I had no boost cut at any PSI. It may be my Ijz MAF was bad and that's what caused it. All I cared at the time was that it worked.
But while we're on the subject, it was the Aussie forums where I got the advise on not using the Boost Cut Controller and that if you did, to make sure your tune was good. That may be wrong, but I found a lot a good advise from Down Under.:icon_surp
But while we're on the subject, it was the Aussie forums where I got the advise on not using the Boost Cut Controller and that if you did, to make sure your tune was good. That may be wrong, but I found a lot a good advise from Down Under.:icon_surp
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Chaz
Guest
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Chaz
Guest
http://www.toymods.net/forums/showthread.php?t=25904
Here's another one. I was in on it when everyone believed in the 2JZ maf upgrade. Like I said, my problem was fixed. But I guess it was fixed by replacing a bad sensor, rather than a upgraded one.
I humbly stand corrected, as usual. Still like the Aussie bunch, though
Here's another one. I was in on it when everyone believed in the 2JZ maf upgrade. Like I said, my problem was fixed. But I guess it was fixed by replacing a bad sensor, rather than a upgraded one.
I humbly stand corrected, as usual. Still like the Aussie bunch, though
i believe you are talking about the 1JZ and 2JZ JDM MAP sensors. The USDM 2JZ-GTE came with the MAF sensor. As far as the smart people not recommending the BCC i believe you are talking about the HKS FCD. If you take a look at MKIV.com you will see that the BCC is a better option and will understand why.
Here are the links.
http://mkiv.com/techarticles/bcc/why_bcc/Why_the_GReddy_BCC.htm
http://mkiv.com/techarticles/index.html scroll down to section 2 of the basic performance upgrades.
Here are the links.
http://mkiv.com/techarticles/bcc/why_bcc/Why_the_GReddy_BCC.htm
http://mkiv.com/techarticles/index.html scroll down to section 2 of the basic performance upgrades.
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I was going to try the 2jz Map thing out but Holy Shit!!! its $250!:aigo: i think ill just deal with boost cut lol
USDM 2JZ has a MAP sensor on it as well.
And the sensors are the SAME SIGNAL guys! BOTH are 2.3bar absolute. I tested this myself, as have several others on toymods. The ONLY reason that you may not be hitting boost cut with a 2JZ sensor is if it's not working 100%, and is clamping just below cut. If you want to swap out the MAP sensor, switch it with a Denso 3bar (plug and play), and some larger injectors.
My 1JZ with y-pipe used to hit 12psi on a warm day, and 17-18psi when it was cold (like -20C).
And the sensors are the SAME SIGNAL guys! BOTH are 2.3bar absolute. I tested this myself, as have several others on toymods. The ONLY reason that you may not be hitting boost cut with a 2JZ sensor is if it's not working 100%, and is clamping just below cut. If you want to swap out the MAP sensor, switch it with a Denso 3bar (plug and play), and some larger injectors.
My 1JZ with y-pipe used to hit 12psi on a warm day, and 17-18psi when it was cold (like -20C).
Nope! I <3 my Blitz ecu 
But yes, when I had stocker and 3'' turbo back, I'd hit boost cut as well.
But yes, when I had stocker and 3'' turbo back, I'd hit boost cut as well.
Turbo 7M;1246349 said:
these links list reasons not to use a FDC or BCC for a 2JZ, most of the reasons aren't for the 1JZ. Like
FDC
This modification has several shortcomings. I recommend you install a Greddy BCC (about $100) instead of the FFCD unless you have converted to parallel turbos (TTC mod). The FFCD fools the computer into thinking it's not making any boost. While this works great in disabling the fuel cut to run high boost, it also interferes with other important operations such as:
- 9V to 12V fuel pump operation (perform the 12V fuel pump modification to fix this, otherwise, you are risking detonation when the #2 turbo kicks in).
- Prespooling the #2 turbo properly. There is a large boost drop just prior to the #2 turbo kicking in. The Greddy BCC lessens the boost drop. The TTC mod fixes this.
- EGR operation (Disable the EGR system to fix this).
- idle control (doesn't seem to be a problem).
The only one on this list that affects 1jz is the fuel but still I don't like that the ecu with FCD or BCC now cant save the engine from over boost. So my question is will the stock injectors be ok for what the stock twins can boost? (Take in account some people have upgraded y-pipes and downpipes.) Or will one need to upgrade to bigger injectors to keep up with the stock twins? Really I'm asking if one can over boost and do damage with stock twins or is Toyota just playing it safe?