Anyone done an aluminum driveshaft on the cheap?
- Thread starter stomis
- Start date
stomis;1541132 said:
I think that's the point people are trying to make to you. No they haven't, because they would rather get something that is more reliable. I'm not saying what you make isn't going to be, but the members here including myself would rather pay a little more for something this important.
So to answer your question, no, no one has, we buy ours from reputable places like Shaftmasters, for example.
Edit: Then IJ posts that. ^ Well, 99% of us don't at least.
it's probably not going to be cheaper if you have to buy a driveshaft anyways and then have a shop do all the work on it. if your trying to go cheap on a driveshaft and your whole molding idea in your other post then a supra is probably not the right car for you... try more like a ford escort....
In short if you just looking to resource you driveshaft material you COULD save money if it is a high quality shaft to begin with, otherwise it's almost better to buy it. You surely don't wanna take a step backwards. Again its your car do it your way, but around here we are usually looking for the best way and its usually not necessarily least expensive. If you have never owned a Supra you will see how picky these cars are. If you have you probably already know, unless you have never had to work on it. In that case better check to see if its a real supra.
88 Blue_Dragon;1541141 said:
You know I'm trying to keep this some what civilized but some of you guys are really good at making some stupid dick comments you know that? A ford escort? So now we're tieing in my molding thread ,WHICH numerous people were interested in and would like to see done, just so you can try to take a shot at calling me cheap? Have you ever heard of anything called a budget, or saving where you can to spend in other places?
Other than pirate4x4 I've never seen someone get lashed out against so bad for simply asking a question and I find it to be pretty ridiculous.
Now back on to those that choose to contribute like normal people.
Voodoo you may very well be right. I'm not really sure what the failure data is for an LS1 shaft. The only reason I got this idea is because theres alot of 4x4 guys around here that get shafts done frequently at the 2 shops I mentioned. Due to their business being quite frequent they only charge $80 to shorten and balance a shaft. Now whether its more for aluminum or not I do not know as I havent called to look in to it yet. I mean if its gonna cost me anywhere near what a premade for our car shaft is then sure I have no problem with buying one from shaftmaster.
And btw what do you mean "Check to see if its a real supra"? How do you clone a supra? Its not like the MK3 was a package on a base car and the trim could be bought and added.
I'm pretty sure Stomis by the time it is all said and done you will end up spending the same amount of money at a shop as you would just to buy one already made. Wouldn't you think everyone would have one made locally if it was cheaper and yielded the same product? For one you wouldn't be able to use any parts from the supra drive shaft. So everything for the new drive shaft would have to be sourced from somewhere.
So the bottom line is if you can source all the parts for a decent price go ahead. Its no different then any of these pre-made drive shafts that any of these places make as long as the shop doing it knows what they are doing. In my honest opinion just run the stock drive shaft until it goes out cause most likely the stock carrier bearing will go out eventually and that costs more then half a new single piece drive shaft would cost.
So the bottom line is if you can source all the parts for a decent price go ahead. Its no different then any of these pre-made drive shafts that any of these places make as long as the shop doing it knows what they are doing. In my honest opinion just run the stock drive shaft until it goes out cause most likely the stock carrier bearing will go out eventually and that costs more then half a new single piece drive shaft would cost.
gennro;1541316 said:
See its so nice to have some kind input. Is there a reason that the stock slip yoke and yoke couldnt be used with a conversion joint?
As I said I have zero problem forking out for a premade one need be it. Just trying to be resourceful.
I'll have to agree with what gennis said...make sure, MAKE SURE the shop knows what they are doing (too many horror stories of blablabla, they didn't do this, or they did it wrong, forgot to install parts, etc) and source all the parts beforehand. If your halfway in and realize you need to spend more than the cost of a new one you're SOL.
If it is done correctly (and that is the key word
) I don't see why not.
IJ: :biglaugh: Geez...impressive!
If it is done correctly (and that is the key word
) I don't see why not.IJ: :biglaugh: Geez...impressive!
If I remember correctly the stock U-joints can't really be replaced on the stock drive shaft without some sort of modification done to them.
gennro;1541345 said:
Well I'm talking with the stock ujoints out just utilizing the slip yoke and the yoke on the rear dif. If they are some sort of specialty joint that doesnt match up to a common size like 1310s 1330s 1350 u joints then the idea is dead in the water. I just figured I'd pull it down. Remove the 2 shaft sections from the slip yoke and yoke and get a conversion joint from the yoke size to the 1330 the camaro shaft has and have it cut, welded, and balanced.
ok so i guess you didn't like the joke. i was messing around, lighten up. i can be an asshole some times.
did pretty much tell you the same thing as gennro did but you were a little more focused on the whole escort thing lol. yes like he said it probably is going to cost about the same if not more for a shop to do all the work. thats why i try to stay away from alot of shops and just buy a part. instead of sending your stuff in to the shop, wait for it to be done and then come to find out they are charging you up the ass.
Anyways... what we are trying to do is keep you from a world of headaches. you'll learn like everyone of us, that going "cheaper" on parts for these cars if not a wise choice. just because i don't have alot of post doesn't mean i haven't read a shit load of them and i've see alot of failures. and thats what i think ppl here are trying to stop you from doing this cuz they think it might fail. and if i does end up failing you'll be out the money you spent on it and probably will have damage to the car. (never had a driveshaft fail on me)
not trying to call you out or any thing, sorry if i offended you.
Anthony
did pretty much tell you the same thing as gennro did but you were a little more focused on the whole escort thing lol. yes like he said it probably is going to cost about the same if not more for a shop to do all the work. thats why i try to stay away from alot of shops and just buy a part. instead of sending your stuff in to the shop, wait for it to be done and then come to find out they are charging you up the ass.
Anyways... what we are trying to do is keep you from a world of headaches. you'll learn like everyone of us, that going "cheaper" on parts for these cars if not a wise choice. just because i don't have alot of post doesn't mean i haven't read a shit load of them and i've see alot of failures. and thats what i think ppl here are trying to stop you from doing this cuz they think it might fail. and if i does end up failing you'll be out the money you spent on it and probably will have damage to the car. (never had a driveshaft fail on me)
not trying to call you out or any thing, sorry if i offended you.
Anthony
LS1 f-body = under 3.0 gear ratio (something like a 2.93 or a 2.73 IIRC)
NA MKIII Supra = 4.10 gear ratio
They both have around the same size wheels. On a 4x4 truck the wheels are much larger which will lower driveshaft speeds. There was a reason Toyota used a 2 piece driveshaft on these cars and it's NOT just for smoothness.
NA MKIII Supra = 4.10 gear ratio
They both have around the same size wheels. On a 4x4 truck the wheels are much larger which will lower driveshaft speeds. There was a reason Toyota used a 2 piece driveshaft on these cars and it's NOT just for smoothness.
The reason why everyone is so against this is we see threads like this, we tell the op that its a bad idea, then next thing we know is the op does it anyways, and then makes another thread about catashrophic failure. Is it possible? Yes. If its cheaper to make than just buying one it will likely break. If its more expensive, aside from proving a point, why bother?
Poodles;1541461 said:
Yes a concern of mine was checking out the failure point of an LS1 shaft vs stocker vs aftermarket premades.
88 Blue I apologize for flippin out I didnt pick up on the fact that you were kidding my fault.
Lewis I have 0 intention on following through if I find out ANY information against my idea saftey or price wise. I wasnt being persistent just to prove a point at all. I'm not like that.
That being said I dont want to earn a bad reputation for myself here. I'm in no means a half asser or a ghetto rig person. I'm not here just to go against the grain and cause problems even if it seems that way. If I'm persistent about something its simply because I think judgment was passed too fast on an idea thats all.
I was a bit hard on you as well, but a driveshaft failure is NOT what you want to happen at 100MPH+
Also, for a road course, you're not going to have lag on a stock turbo if you have all the normal upgrades, but you will be underpowered with an NA... Not knocking you, just stating a fact, there was a reason the 7M MKIII's came turbo only in Japan.
Also, for a road course, you're not going to have lag on a stock turbo if you have all the normal upgrades, but you will be underpowered with an NA... Not knocking you, just stating a fact, there was a reason the 7M MKIII's came turbo only in Japan.
Poodles;1541497 said:
Well I'm hoping for 200whp with a fresh motor, port and polish, and cams so we'll see what happens but I do have a back up plan if I do find it lacking NA that I wont loose out on any invested money from switching to.
200hp Na probably isn't going to get the car anywhere near the driveshaft critical speed the danger here is if some of the young guys going NA-t think this is a good idea then go out and do a few top end runs on their one piece shaft with 4.30's....
Someone posted a critical speed calculator awhile back it would be an idea to punch your numbers into it and see how close to the edge you'll be.
I built my 2 piece back when I ran 4.30/4.10's and was running it to 8500 so one piece wasn't even close to an option for me.
Someone posted a critical speed calculator awhile back it would be an idea to punch your numbers into it and see how close to the edge you'll be.
I built my 2 piece back when I ran 4.30/4.10's and was running it to 8500 so one piece wasn't even close to an option for me.
IJ.;1541581 said:
What you saying is that a well done 2 piece would be better then a solid 1 piece?
Think i might have got confused.
VooDoo;1541147 said:
stomis;1541282 said:
Anyone who has ever owned a supra and been on these forums has had to work on them. A bad J/K I guess.
It seems that the flaming has slowed down to a constructive advise now. GOOD FOR YOU.