hey guys i have an air to fuel gauge im installing, my only question is- which of the three wires from the oxygen sensor do i splice into?
air/fuel gauge install
- Thread starter max-89supra(t)
- Start date
probably the blue one, or which ever one is your signal wire? stock o2 sensor? you might not get much from the narrow band sensor though
you splice into the blue wire, although if it is a narrow band gauge its readings are gonna be all over the place, and imo...will be hard to deem worthwhile. A wideband really is the only way to go with this. To save some headache, use a vampire type connector to tee off of the blue wire...easier installation that way.
MKIIISupraGuy;1455943 said:
Are you talking about these>>
If so you should be ashamed and embarrased
IJ.;1455947 said:Are you talking about these>> [thumb]http://www.mcmelectronics.com/content/productimages/s4/4015685.jpg[/thumb]
If so you should be ashamed and embarrased
They are kind of like that. They clamp on but they have a male-type spade connector once they are clamped shut. You then just put a matching female spade on the wire coming from the gauge. I suggested this quick install method because once he connects it up, and finds out how it performs, he is going to trash/give it away, and get a wideband. This way allows for quick removal haha. You are right though, I should of recommended my way, which is getting my soldering iron and heatshrink out, because that's the only real method.
I'm gonna go stick my head under a pillow now.....:: facepalm ::
hey guys thanks for all the advice...
i will definitly get a wide band when i can afford one lol...
i got this one for really cheap and needed an extra gauge for my column anyway so ya.. i know its now accurate but atleast looks good...for now.
but one more thing- im a semi truck mechanic and for splicing wires especially out side wires that will by the way corrode in time when you use the types of connecters as shown- i have come to trust the shrinkable butt connectors, they are easy to use and do an excellent job on insulating the wire. you crimp them like regular butt connectors and then heat the whole connector and watch it shrink, the cool part is that the inside on the connector forms this gel around the wire and then cools down and hardens-there. now you have a perfectly insulated wire.
i will definitly get a wide band when i can afford one lol...
i got this one for really cheap and needed an extra gauge for my column anyway so ya.. i know its now accurate but atleast looks good...for now.
but one more thing- im a semi truck mechanic and for splicing wires especially out side wires that will by the way corrode in time when you use the types of connecters as shown- i have come to trust the shrinkable butt connectors, they are easy to use and do an excellent job on insulating the wire. you crimp them like regular butt connectors and then heat the whole connector and watch it shrink, the cool part is that the inside on the connector forms this gel around the wire and then cools down and hardens-there. now you have a perfectly insulated wire.
no, just splice it at the ecu...this way you dont have to worry about sealing it up. just use a scotch lock like the other guy posted a pic...its not going to cause any extra resistance untill it gets corroded, so dont use them in the engine bay...really thats why they get such a bad name, people use them for lighting systems and then go run up north (im a diesel tech and see those things all day long...once the wire is exposed corrosion just eats it in half) as long as youre in a non corrosive area then you might get away with it for a year or 2 but theyre usually only good for wiring interior accessories
the signal wire is the only solid tan wire comming out of the ecu, center plug i think...ACTUALLY now that i think of it...dont use a scotch lock on the o2 signal! the wire is surrounded by another wire (2 different wires, 2 sets of insulations...atleast in the engine bay anyways, i forget what it was at the ecu) anyways i found this out the hard way. i installed my af gauge and found the leanest led was very dim and you could only tell it was on at night. i went on a long trip and noticed the gauge started sweeping with some bumps. the wire in the middle is the signal and im assuming the outer wire is to protect the signal from any electric noise comming from the engine...i really dont know why but both insulations were broken and the wires were touching. after repairing i got 3 more mpg and the gauge does the lightshow sweep thingy now.
the signal wire is the only solid tan wire comming out of the ecu, center plug i think...ACTUALLY now that i think of it...dont use a scotch lock on the o2 signal! the wire is surrounded by another wire (2 different wires, 2 sets of insulations...atleast in the engine bay anyways, i forget what it was at the ecu) anyways i found this out the hard way. i installed my af gauge and found the leanest led was very dim and you could only tell it was on at night. i went on a long trip and noticed the gauge started sweeping with some bumps. the wire in the middle is the signal and im assuming the outer wire is to protect the signal from any electric noise comming from the engine...i really dont know why but both insulations were broken and the wires were touching. after repairing i got 3 more mpg and the gauge does the lightshow sweep thingy now.
that a/f meter is only good for ricers who want a light show
"ooo,it does THIS when I rev the motor"
"ooo,it does THIS when I rev the motor"
Narrow bands are great tools too keep track of how your car is running while in open loop! A smart guy would have both! They have their place unless you're standalone!
IJ.;1462971 said:
Pardon my friend.......hes a little slow....
And having owned one the past couple of years, i completely agree with tyler (gaboon)....well, minus that one part