aftermarket rings..

[pimptrizkit]

alright guys, well i have been workin hard trin to re-do my motor and set her up right..

when i blew my first gasket i rebuilt the head and put in a mhg, i ran out of money and wanted my car for my b-day (how selfish of me huh) well hg went again, so when i got back to auto class and found out where rebuildin motor's i yanked mine out of my car.

so far i have measured all the bearings with plastigauged, and every thing was inspec.

i have measured the crank and crank looks great.

im going to be using standard bearings, and was really curious what bearings most of you trust, use and where you picked them up at..



i guess now i'll get the to beggin of the thread on why i started this..

my bores look great, you can still see the cross hatchin, and i was measuing them for out of round and look pretty good, almost no taper on the bores either.
so i decided, i'll deglaze them/ hone them and through in new rings, re-use stock pistons and go through all the bearings.
well my question is, what aftermarket rings will fit the stock pistons? i was looking at je rings, but i am not sure about fitment.. there 50 bux or so cheaper then stock rings.

i am also going to be using arp's in the bottom end, and i already have studz for the head.

the main studs seem easy enough to install, but i had a query about the rod bolts, i asked my teacher about removing them, he said it's not hard to do , but would advise against doing it untill new bolts are here (makes sense)

he said install into vise, and hit then center of the bolt with a punch and drive them out.



i guess since im talkin about rebuild stuff here.. i want to get my crank and rotating mass balenced. does the machine shop need the block to do this? and all the new bearings? or do they scale them? and spin the crank on a machine?

 

[starscream5000]

Clevite 77 bearings... You can get them at jscspeed.com. If you get ARP rod bolts, I would suggest using stretch gauge on these to determine how tight the bolts need to be as the stretch gauges are more acurate than a torch wrench. I belive ARP mentions this in thier catalog and they sell the gauge needed. Remember the 7m has really tight tolerances all around, double check everything, then check again. If you have the spare time, take a look at ARP's catalog and read some of the articles in it... Very informative.

 

[TurboWarrior]

I would only use toyota bearings. Im using them. I reasearched it. Toyota has many different size bearings to achive the tight clearances.

Toyota bearings go I think 1 - 5 depending on thickness.

My motor needed 2-2-2-2-2-3 to stay spec. I don't see how these aftermarket bearings can compare

 

[pimptrizkit]

i had thought about this aswell..

give me a sec and i'll find all my measurements..

alright found them..
plastigauge,

rods, .038mm all rods. mains same, except 6, cap six had scrathcs in bearing, throughin the plastiguage, it read .051mm

main numbers 1-7.
3,4,3,3,2,3,3

numbers stamped on pan seal, 2322222

numbers found on crank 1111011

some measurements i took from main's on crank.

2.36250 , 2.36220 , 2.36200, 2.36215, 2.36220, 2.36205 , 2.36205

once again, im learnin how to get a feel for using the tools, so each measurement could be a little off due to tightness or being to lose..

 

[IJ.]

Clevite 77 bearings... You can get them at jscspeed.com. If you get ARP rod bolts, I would suggest using stretch gauge on these to determine how tight the bolts need to be as the stretch gauges are more acurate than a torch wrench. I belive ARP mentions this in thier catalog and they sell the gauge needed. Remember the 7m has really tight tolerances all around, double check everything, then check again. If you have the spare time, take a look at ARP's catalog and read some of the articles in it... Very informative.

Might want to rethink that one!

 

[boostadikt]

if you are using arp hardware you may need to get the block line honed, and the rods re condishoned and the shop will check the tolerances, if it is out of spec they may have to bore them and order oversize bearings..... clevite 77 FTW, its what i run, and all shops by me recomend, in fact i have an extra set of Mains STD. size, yours for 45$ shipped:icon_bigg

 

[pimptrizkit]

well i got off the phone with toyota, and im going to get a very attrative prive opn the bearings and the ring set, so im going to make my best efforts to use stock bearings, they appear to be a great quality product, and some peopel have ran them at good power levels


why would i need to get the stuff line honed for using main studs?

i didn't think about it for the rod's but makes a little sence if you think your removing the studs and replacng and stuff doesn't always go back together the way it came out.

 

[IJ.]

if you are using arp hardware you may need to get the block line honed, and the rods re condishoned and the shop will check the tolerances, if it is out of spec they may have to bore them and order oversize bearings..... clevite 77 FTW, its what i run, and all shops by me recomend, in fact i have an extra set of Mains STD. size, yours for 45$ shipped:icon_bigg

Can you open the bearing box and see what's stamped on the back of the shells please?

 

[boostadikt]

STD
GS70293L0
AK T

is that what you wanted...... you will need to get it honed because the studs put a lot more torque and stress on the caps, and it can distort a little bit, correct me if im wrong but i believe stock torque for mains is 75 and arp recomends 85-90 with studs and moly-lube

 

[IJ.]

Boost: Anything else stamped on em?
(not getting a hit on that number)

 

[boostadikt]

wait its GS70293LC its a c not a 0 but that is all that is on them and i dont wanna remove the plastic wrapping
what are you trying to get a hit on?

 

[suprasport91]

to see if they are actually clevites prolly....

 

[boostadikt]

they are, i will try to borrow my roomates camera later and take a pic if needs be

 

[IJ.]

Clevite have stopped making 7M bearings and are just buying NDC's and boxing them in Clevite boxes but maybe they have a bunch of genuine Clevites in STD size.

 

[pimptrizkit]

the mais are 75, and the rods are 47,

why put more torqe on them when there hasn't been a issue ? im just plannin on using better bolts ones that aren't stretched.

im not sayin i wont, i just want some info. like i said im tring to build a relible motor, once this thing is done, i'll be upgrading injectors and turbo..

im going to be balencing the stuff, was quoted 135& 145 do to them.

im going to do alittle bit a callin around i have been qouted 145 for deckin, and that seem,s high, i remember callin around for my brothers motor and getin 45 dollar figure..

im also going to get every number off the crank and block, and go to toyota, and get the proper bearings needed to rebuild,
i was told that polishin and upsizin to the next toyota bearing could help longivity, is this just bs? where talking a bearing thats .001/.005 bigger?

 

[TurboWarrior]

i had thought about this aswell..

give me a sec and i'll find all my measurements..

alright found them..
plastigauge,

rods, .038mm all rods. mains same, except 6, cap six had scrathcs in bearing, throughin the plastiguage, it read .051mm

main numbers 1-7.
3,4,3,3,2,3,3

numbers stamped on pan seal, 2322222

numbers found on crank 1111011

some measurements i took from main's on crank.

2.36250 , 2.36220 , 2.36200, 2.36215, 2.36220, 2.36205 , 2.36205

once again, im learnin how to get a feel for using the tools, so each measurement could be a little off due to tightness or being to lose..

As long as the crank isn't machined those numbers are good to use.

Im not sure of the calculation either. I took all the numbers to a toyota pro and he ordered the bearings for me.

read this if you need more info. This is a multipage tiff. 2 images, one file you need program that can see both pages
http://www.acuretfinance.com/assets/confirm images/openhq/online/info.zip