well i dont know if this thread has been posted already and i was wondering if this can be done and what do i need to do this?
7mgte injectors to 7mge
- Thread starter streetdreamz
- Start date
streetdreamz;1160261 said:
Well, if you have the wrong year injectors, depending on your 7MGE, you will ruin the injector drivers in the ECU. This can be worked around with a resistor pack, but why not just run the stock ones?
Nick M;1160291 said:
Wrong year injectors? I knew about the resistor pack but I didn't realize not using them would damage the ECU. Good to know. I have a set of turbo injectors to go on my NA since the fuel system is one of the last pieces to be upgraded.
benchwarmer;1160307 said:
Early 7MGE injectors were low impedance. Later were high. That is what the resistor is for.
All 7MGTE are low impedance.
IJ.;1160431 said:
This is the first thing that needs to be addressed. I don't know what you might be expecting to gain from larger injectors.
well i was reading that the ge injectors size is 380cc and the gte 440cc and since i have a gte with a bad engine just laying around i thought i might get something out of it...
Specified flow RANGE for N/A injectors is 276cc/min to 340cc/min.... pretty big range and that doesn't even tell us what they're SUPPOSED to flow from the factory. Don't even expect that you're going to see that maximum of 340cc/min either.... Whoever told you 380cc/min is guessing and needs to just STFU.
CRE;1160869 said:
The Supra Wiki says that the NA injectors range from 305cc/min to 380cc/min. That's most likely where he got it. As for why I would switch injectors it's part of a larger overall upgrade forthcoming. Let's just say it involves a sawzall, aluminum tubing, a new throttlebody, and crapload of swearing. Using turbo injectors by themselves would just be pointless.
As CRE said of course. I didn't say the alternate info was correct, I said where it came from. Relax.
To answer the question, yes they will drop in if your injectors are yellow (low impedance). Your car will run rich.
We still would like to know wh you want to do it though
We still would like to know wh you want to do it though
Well I have the same question actually. My car is a 89n/a and this is its third motor. I have a narrow band a/f meter on it and it used to be able to go all the way to rich when I was in it. But now I have made a few mods to the car. Chrome cold air intake K&N airfilter from a 5.0 mustang its like 6 inches long round and about 4 inches around. Full custom exhoust that is all ceramic coated. No cat just a resonator and can muffler. I can not even get half way with my a/f meter because I think it is sucking to much air and the fuel injectors are about giving up. What do you think is going on guys?
sgtmcboom;1183285 said:
Definitely the O-NR error.... next to the head gasket it's the MOST common problem with the MKIII.
Ha ha fny guy. O-NR thats new.
Seriously tho think with just those mods it could be reaching the limit of the fuel injectors or not even close? I admit I am more of a computer person then a car person but I did do an n/a engine swap myself in my backyard so I cant be that bad. Anyway any creative advice would be good.
Seriously tho think with just those mods it could be reaching the limit of the fuel injectors or not even close? I admit I am more of a computer person then a car person but I did do an n/a engine swap myself in my backyard so I cant be that bad. Anyway any creative advice would be good.
No way in hell you're maxing out the injectors. My money's on the gauge. NB meters are worthless... it's not just a joke, they really don't tell you crap.
I presume you've tested the gauge's wiring for breaks and poor connections?
If you want to check it use a DMM with a peak and hold mode and test the signal to OX. Should be around .5v when stoich. If you're lean it'll be lower. The TSRM covers testing the O2 sensor. Check the harness while you're at it.
I presume you've tested the gauge's wiring for breaks and poor connections?
If you want to check it use a DMM with a peak and hold mode and test the signal to OX. Should be around .5v when stoich. If you're lean it'll be lower. The TSRM covers testing the O2 sensor. Check the harness while you're at it.
well before I went with the ceramic headers the o2 sensor was near the engine now its down at the botom under the car. It wasnt working right for a while because I mounted the sensor to the ceramic exhoust without thinking about the grounding issue because the ceramic isolates the sensor. I did however install a new o2 sensor from autozone with a new grounding wire grounding it directly to the trans ground on the car when I was under there. The narrow band was on there when I got the car it was owned by someone that tryed to rice the poor thing out. "Underglow" and "stickerkit" so I am more focused on geting it to run right. I will check my chiltons when I get home to check and see what signals the o2 sensor is sending.