7mgte code 51 messed up idle runs rough

chris89

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im almost done fixing up the 7mgte and now that its running it's throwing code 51. So i unplugged the tps connector, blew it out and blew out the tps. I used a shot of carb cleaner on the connector and the tps. is that bad? i had nothing else on hand. What should i do about this?
 

jdub

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And, did you check codes with the AC button on (pressed in)?

The carb cleaner probably didn't hurt the connector, but I don't recommend it. They make electrical cleaners...next time go get some vs being impatient.
 

chris89

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we took it out. have yet to check codes again. Yes we may have had the ac on when we checked. i can't manage to get the codes to clear. Car hits fuel cut? code 41 i think why?
 

jdub

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If the AC button is on, you will always get a code 52...it's exactly how it's suppose to work. Check codes without the AC on.

Code 34 is over boost (fuel cut).

Clear ECU codes by pulling the EFI fuse in the engine bay for at least 30 sec.
 

chris89

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ok. I'm going to install a different boost controller tomorrow. This is a TURBOXS controller. I have no idea how it works or how to use it? I went to there website and it doesn't make sense on how to adjust it since this one is just the controller only that i got from a friend. It's the high performance boost controller from turbo xs with coarse/ fine adjustment. Anyway i have yet to check the codes again so i will do so tomorrow. About the fuel cut. It seemed to only boost to about 7psi though when it hit cut? I'm trying to get the thing to pull with low boost but no matter how low i set it it still did it. Anyway it seems like it wants to die alot after giving it gas. Soo annoying. Anyway i'm stumped on why i'm getting Code 51 (Switch Signal).
 

jdub

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Code 51 is a real time code, the only real time code the TCCS displays...it is not retained in memory. It indicates:
- IDL contacts off...i.e. the TPS is not adjusted correctly or the TB plate is open (accelerator pedal depressed)
- The neutral start switch is off
- The ECU is receiving a signal from the A/C switch (it's depressed on)

Checking codes with the AC switch depressed on or if your foot is on the accelerator will always cause a code 51.
 

jdub

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If it's holding the TB plate open, yes. At idle the TB plate should be completely closed...the ISVC path provides the air the engine needs to run at idle.
 

chris89

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jdub;1316084 said:
If it's holding the TB plate open, yes. At idle the TB plate should be completely closed...the ISVC path provides the air the engine needs to run at idle.

The weird thing is, is it isn't the throttle has a 1/12th inch of play before it begins to move the butterfly. I may take off the throttlebody and tune the tps to spec. Or just test it first. How can i make the tps connection better? It seems to have a slight loosness in the connector.
 

jdub

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Before you do all that, why don't you check codes and make sure the AC button is not depressed...if it's an auto tranny, it needs to be in park or neutral too. ;)
 

chris89

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what would u suggest about the code 34? I think i'll just connect a hose from the turbo actuator to the wastgate and clamp them to make sure it's stock and not boosting too high. Too high would be 13psi + correct? I heard 10-11psi is ok?
 

jdub

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Code 34 is generated when the ECU senses above normal air flow volume across the AFM. If everything checks ok (IC, IC piping, clamps, connectors, etc) and you are using the stock AFM, then you will generally hit FC in the 12-14 psi range. This does depend on OAT and the altitude density for where you live...the psi one guy hits FC may or may not be the same for you.

If you are hitting FC in the lower boost range, it is very likely you have a boost leak somewhere along the turbo outlet - IC piping - IC - TB path.

Your boost controller could simply be set too high. Not sure what you mean by "connect a hose from the turbo actuator to the wastegate".


BTW - jumping ahead of yourself will get you into trouble on this car. Suggest you resolve the possible code 51 problem (if you even really have it), then make sure timing is set correctly (can't set timing with a code 51) before you vector off on other issues.
 

chris89

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Yes. I like to do one thing at a time and get them fixed in an organized mannor. Anyway I just thought i'de get all the answers i need before i go out there and start working on it. Thanks though! I really appreciate it.
 

chris89

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What ever the red hose is connected to is what i'm refering to. Anyway it's like a single hose connected to both of those nipples to a valve that has a bolt with a spring and ball inside. I can adjust it in for more, out for less. Its very inaccurate. We've been driving it for a day or two now. It sometimes boosts to 5psi and pulls through and other times it'll jerk and hit fuel cut. Sometimes it'll just sputter through boost? Anyway also after giving it gas and letting it go back to idle it'll almost die throw a CEL and come back up to idle then the cel goes away. I have yet to check the codes again but will definetely do so asap. How much boost should it be pulling? Also where should the hose from the boost gauge connect to? Right now it's setup on a T and connects to the BOV nipple along with the hose that comes off the intake tree. I'll take more pics of the vaccum line setup and everything else tomorrow to give u more of an idea.

Thanks

I'm thinking about buying this boost controller. How do i adjust the boost with it?
bc_hp_lg.jpg

ct26web.jpg
 

chris89

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Some help and advice would be highly appreciated. I know details of the codes it's throwing would be appreciated. The hard pipes are really tight and secure. They are really tightened down and not leaking from the tb to the the intercooler/ turbo. Earlier today it wouldn't start and i don't know why? It would crank and not start. It sounded like it would several times but wouldn't. I smelled fuel etc. So i noticed the o2 sensor wire was sitting on the exhaust/ turbo. I unplugged it, then routed it so it wouldn't be touching. Then it started right up. This seems to be confusing.