7MGTE 1989 Won't Start

Nick M

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Sep 9, 2005
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jdmfreak;2035104 said:
I've always used a drill, I figured it would need to spin fast enough to get "sync" before the ecu would send signals to the injectors and coils

Eliminate Ford strategy from your mind with TCCS.
 

Nick M

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Ford EEC IV and V are both very good. I would hardly laugh at it. They start great hot and cold without a CSI circuit. ECT and IAT the same? Cold start enrichment. It is that simple.

Ford uses the term sync for the cam and crank signal. The cam being the hall effect switch. Now it is still called hall effect but it doesn't have rotating vanes. It is set up inside the sensor. Of course Ford isn't alone in "sync" for the signal. TCCS doesn't use a separate crank pickup in the block, it is all in the distributor/CPS. That is all I was getting at.
 

jkendall86

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UPDATE....put all the electrical to gether, put all the intake piping back together, made sure the battery was fully charged, made sure all the electrical components were within spec with a DMM....I have gas, spark, fuel pressure. Checked all the timing related parts and they are all lined up correctly. Tried to start and it sputtered, but did not catch and simply continued to crank. Since the compression was between 60-100 on all 6, will that keep it from starting? And what would be the cause of the compression drop literally from one day to another?
 

suprarx7nut

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110 across the board would probably run just fine. 60 across the board might be enough to keep it from catching while starting.

Causes for instant compression loss across all cylinders? I can't think of any that would leave you with more than 60 per cylinder. 60 is still mostly sealed so it's not like a catastrophic failure occurred in each cylinder.

How confident are you in your compression checks? It may be worth running again. Did you go through dry and then wet? Checking it dry then wet helps to determine if your rings are shot or if the problem is in the gasket/valves.

Keep that poor battery charged up constantly. All this cranking and no starting has got to be tough on the little guy. ;)
 

jkendall86

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I have run the compression test 4 times.... thought my gauge was bad so it was done with three different gauges...first time dry...probable fuel soaked...then with injectors unplugged and added oil...the numbers were 100,60,70,80,60,70
 
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suprarx7nut

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jkendall86;2035640 said:
I have run the compression test 4 times.... thought my gauge was bad so it was done with three different gauges...first time dry...probable fuel soaked...then with injectors unplugged and added oil...the numbers were 100,60,70,80,60,70

Those are some bad numbers. Looks like a bad head gasket leak or a bad head all around. A proper leak down test should help point you in the right direction.
 

jkendall86

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I agree they are bad...I would not think that a hg could fail across all cylinders overnight....but I could understand if the head cracked or some other catastrophic failure
 

jkendall86

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Update...just did the leak down test...I can hear and feel it coming from the can cover breathers. Nothing from the radiator, the dipstick, the intake or exhaust...just the can covers
 

suprarx7nut

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Hmm... The cam covers share air space with the block/dipstick (piston rings gone bad) or the valves (intake or exhaust). Are you sure there wasn't anything from the dipstick or intake/exhaust?
 

jkendall86

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I am going to seal the can covers and the vent tubes and try again to see more closely where air is escaping...I'll update tomorrow.

contact me via text...503-930-7268
 

jkendall86

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UPDATE: I put the cam covers back on and connected the vent tube. I sealed the end that would go to the accordion hose. I did the leak down test in all cylinders. They leaked from 40-60%. I heard air leaking through the dipstick with 2-5 also having gurgling sounds. I also heard and felt air from the intake when I opened it. In number 4 I heard air coming from the number 3 plug hole as well.
 

suprarx7nut

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If this were my engine and I had your results I'd plan on a rebuild. Head Gasket job at a minimum. If it's a second car and you can afford to be down I'd do a full engine rebuild.

Bad compression across the board, bad leak down results with gurgling and an inability to hold pressure.
 

nhum

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Aug 25, 2005
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Have you tried another igniter? I had similar problem but in my case, the car died while going 65 on the highway. I would crank but won't start. I replaced the igniter and it fired right up.
 

jkendall86

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I did...I replaced all the electronics with known good ones...compression way too low, and leakdown was terrible...engine hunting now...got a couple of other projects that are taking precedence now, but as soon as I find the right swap, its on!

contact me via text...503-930-7268