Car was running fine. Was starting each and every time. Lately it began to be a little rough idling once it was started, then yesterday, I could not get it to start. It cranks fine, but will not fire. I have checked the grounds, as I got a code 11. All grounds are present and clean. The battery is fully charged and cables are cleaned and tightened. There is spark and fuel. It was running and I did not do any work to it before it started not to start. I have read numerous threads about grounds, spark, fuel. It was running one day, then not starting the next. It was getting harder to idle the past few weeks, but cleared up once warm. I was going to clean the ISCV just to see if that would make it idle better, but since I cannot get it started, I'm not sure what to do....
7MGTE 1989 Won't Start
- Thread starter jkendall86
- Start date
11 is an ECU power related code, but I've had that multiple times and never successfully traced it back directly back to an ECU or specific wiring problem. I have, however, had other issues lead to a no start where code 11 has shown up.
Aside from verifying power to the ECU I'd try messing with the CPS wiring coming out of the CPS just because that's been a problem on 2 of my 3 GTE motors that's stopped it from turning over. The CPS wiring is a common no start culprit.
Another possible trick is to give the igniter a direct ground lead and check your battery. See my thread below. My battery was fully charged, but would still fail to start the car (it would crank fine).
http://www.supramania.com/forums/sh...lure-to-start-cranks-ok&p=2002771#post2002771
Aside from verifying power to the ECU I'd try messing with the CPS wiring coming out of the CPS just because that's been a problem on 2 of my 3 GTE motors that's stopped it from turning over. The CPS wiring is a common no start culprit.
Another possible trick is to give the igniter a direct ground lead and check your battery. See my thread below. My battery was fully charged, but would still fail to start the car (it would crank fine).
http://www.supramania.com/forums/sh...lure-to-start-cranks-ok&p=2002771#post2002771
Thanks for the reply...I have the Ignitor externally grounded... I also just noticed that the cps is hard wired in...I bought this car 15 years ago...sold it 4 years ago and just bought it back about a year ago...when I originally had it the wiring harness was pristine...now I'm noticing a few "flaws" here and there...cps upgrade is in the works
jkendall86;2034134 said:
All the parts to make a new CPS connection were available a couple years ago when I redid my harness. If needed, you should be able to completely redo that connection properly. I wouldn't solder anything there and make sure any splice crimps are high quality. No hardware store, generic insulated crimps there for sure.
Good luck!
The 11 must be resolved first. It's the lowest numbered code for a reason. It will also mask other codes set in memory.
I read that several times...not sure where else to look...checked grounds and battery... all seem good
First check cranking voltage. Must remain above 10. Then completely bypass each side of the ECU power circuit. That way you'll know on which side the problem lies and if the engine will start with the code resolved or if you have additional issues.
Pulled the CPS today. As I was pulling it, I noticed oil leaking from underneath onto the exhaust manifold. As i got closer, I noticed a lot of oil lower on the hoses. When I pulled the cap off, there was oil sitting in it and everything inside was coated with oil. I'm working on getting the harness side plug replaced and putting on my spare CPS that was rebuilt.....I should know more in a couple of days if this was my problem. BTW, cranking volts was right at 10....
You can and people do but without going into detail solder isn't as "good" as a properly done crimped connection in multiple ways. A lot of study has been done about this in the aerospace industry. It's why all the wiring in aircraft is crimped. It's also why the car's harness comes crimped from the factory. That said, properly done solder is better than crimping with cheap hardware store terminals and tooling. And whatever you do stay away from IDC connectors...
UPDATE: Rewired the CPS, properly placed connectors on the harness and replaced the CPS with one that had been repaired and was working properly....no change, still cranks without starting. Checked the timing gears and CPS timing marks to make sure it had not slipped a tooth, everything was ok there. Double checked that the fuel was running, it was. checked the coils for proper resistance, they are all good. Checked for power to the coil harness, its fine. Replaced the Ignitor and checked for power to it, all good there.
Car still cranks well, but does not fire...
Car still cranks well, but does not fire...
Another UPDATE: Just checked all the fuses in the box by the battery, again, they are all fine. Rechecked for spark, all six sires fire....tried to start it and i heard one chug, as if it was going to fire on one cylinder, but it just kept cranking. I had the battery on a charger all night and it was fully charged, shows 12+ and nearly 11 while cranking...and I checked for codes, none, dada, not even a blip in the blinking...it just continuously blinks....
Seems like a fuel problem then. Do you have fuel pressure? Check for injector operation using a noid light. Given you have spark, it is pretty likely the injectors are firing. That assumes you have got rid of the code 11, which it seems you have.
Thanks for the suggestion....I do have fuel pressure, when I jumper the b+ and the FP i hear fuel running and it pressures up well. I have been doing a bit more reading, and a bit confused....my b+ only has power when I turn the ignition on and my cel does not light up unless I am jumpering to look for codes...
Did more checking....my CEL does come on when I turn on the key.
Did more checking....my CEL does come on when I turn on the key.
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B+ is powered up by the EFI Main Relay. The operation you see is normal. BATT is the only feed that is always hot.
That said, the CEL should be on with ignition if the engine is not rotating. Are you saying when you turn on the ignition with the key, prior to cranking, no CEL is visible?
That said, the CEL should be on with ignition if the engine is not rotating. Are you saying when you turn on the ignition with the key, prior to cranking, no CEL is visible?
I just rechecked and the CEL light works properly...it turns on when the key is in the on position, and blinks properly when the diag block is jumpered. Checked for codes again, still have none, light continuously blinks....
A shot of starting fluid or fuel in the brake booster port can often be revealing. Just sayin'...
sprayed starting fluid in brake booster and then in the intake....nothing, no spark not even a hint of firing....and I do have great fuel pressure....so this leads back to electrical I would assume...
jkendall86;2034533 said:
Well, which is it? If you have spark it'll fire given a shot of ether unless the timing is off.
Edit: Remember, if for sure you have no spark/injection and are unable to trace the problem properly you can always unplug the fuel pump relay then take out the CPS and spin it by hand while messing around. That way you can troubleshoot without running the battery down and abusing the starter. Once the problem is resolved it'd also force you into a recheck of the CPS install.