7MGE sputters and bogs <2500rpm. checked stuff! Edit: SOLVED!!!

[PureDrifter]

Spent a fairly large amount of time searching and troubleshooting, this is where i'm at:nono:

bought the car with BHG, head was shaved, stone headgasket w/ARP studs, new gaskets most everywhere, new plugs (NGK v-power copper), new wires (NGK), thermostat, and more stuff.

as it is, the car runs and is drivable, but has had a weird idle at ~800-900rpm,a nd sputters constantly up until ~2500rpm or so. the car bogs and bucks when driving <2500rpm or so, then smooths out and couldn't be happier. runs a bit rich and the engine seems to "shake" at idle in time with the sputter/misfire. All vac lines are tight and I cleaned the EGR+replaced its gaskets when i thought it was stuck open.
new toyota TPS, calibrated enough to shut the code 51 off (with a digital meter), timed at ~10*btdc. No visible smoke out the back.

attached are a couple pictures of the timing belt cams with the crank pulley at TDC, they appear to be in the right places with 17teeth between the cam marks, but having never done a TB before on a 7M i figured it best to ask for confirmation.

help? please? :1zhelp:

car's getting its 2nd coolant flush and oil change since the hg was replaced ~500miles ago.

Edit 3/22: Video on pg 5
Edit 3/25: SOLVED on pg 6

 

[bioskyline]

my 5mge did this and turned out it was the AFM. this was after replacing the dist, tb, ecu, intake gaskets and about 1500 later.... so try a new(to you) afm

 

[PureDrifter]

I went and tested the AFM on the car and E2/VC and E2/VS were both way way out of spec, but the car didnt have a CEL for the AFM?
tested as per: http://www.cygnusx1.net/Media/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/FI/FI_094.gif

so should I still go pick up an AFM that tests right and hope it works (i'm not one for throwing parts at a car)? IE-Is the ECU retarded in diagnosing a bad (but still present+connected) AFM?? (codes 24, 31, or 32??)

 

[bioskyline]

well on mine the CEL never came on, even with the afm unplugged.....

 

[PureDrifter]

update: fresh oil+coolant today, also replaced the coolant temp sensor and reset the timing (it was a couple degrees too high, oops).

problem persists

would a video help guys?

 

[Nick M]

update: fresh oil+coolant today, also replaced the coolant temp sensor and reset the timing (it was a couple degrees too high, oops).

problem persists

would a video help guys?

Not nearly as much as an emission trace of other 4 gas analyzer.

 

[jetjock]

You might want to test the afm correctly, especially if you found it to be "bad" using the crappy method suggested in the book. That'd at least rule it out...

 

[PureDrifter]

Not nearly as much as an emission trace of other 4 gas analyzer.

best i can do for you in that respect is a failed CA smog test (REALLY REALLY high HC/CO) from a month and a half back when it was running on 5cyl, it got new wires afterward since they were way out of spec.

You might want to test the afm correctly, especially if you found it to be "bad" using the crappy method suggested in the book. That'd at least rule it out...

what's the "correct" test for the vane-type AFM? Is it the "off vehicle" test as described in the TSRM here:http://www.cygnusx1.net/Media/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/FI/FI_095.gif? or is it something else? as an example, my E2-VS and E2-VC readings (from the "on vehicle" test) were in the xxx,000 ranges instead of the xxx ranges :3d_frown: (yet still no code?! wtf?!)

 

[D.J.T.]

You replace Distributor cap & rotor? On my 90 Celica GT the distributor was leaking oil so the cap would be filled with oil & it sputtered a lot, had to clean every now & then. AFM...... would this explain why my car stalls randomly after i put it on neutral... like 3 seconds after i put it on neutral the check engine comes on & off & rpms gauge drops & goes up. Mine is a GTE by the way....

 

[PureDrifter]

You replace Distributor cap & rotor? On my 90 Celica GT the distributor was leaking oil so the cap would be filled with oil & it sputtered a lot, had to clean every now & then. AFM...... would this explain why my car stalls randomly after i put it on neutral... like 3 seconds after i put it on neutral the check engine comes on & off & rpms gauge drops & goes up. Mine is a GTE by the way....

new dist. cap and rotor. i'll pull them off to check if the o-ring's leaking.

 

[PureDrifter]

just had a thought, i've got an ever-present code 43 (sta signal) from the previous owner's semi-jury rigged ignition setup, so i currently have my own starter relay wiring in place without the original (blue striped) wire going to the brown terminal on the starter. I do have plans to splice the signal into my new wire to shut the code up but hadn't gotten around to it as it seemed from my reading to be unrelated.

but.....could this possibly cause the CSI to stay on after i've started the car?

 

[PureDrifter]

I went and tested the AFM on the car and E2/VC and E2/VS were both way way out of spec, but the car didnt have a CEL for the AFM?
tested as per: http://www.cygnusx1.net/Media/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/FI/FI_094.gif

so should I still go pick up an AFM that tests right and hope it works (i'm not one for throwing parts at a car)? IE-Is the ECU retarded in diagnosing a bad (but still present+connected) AFM?? (codes 24, 31, or 32??)

You might want to test the afm correctly, especially if you found it to be "bad" using the crappy method suggested in the book. That'd at least rule it out...

ok no clue what happened but i went and tested my AFM this morning and again just now and got readings that were perfectly within spec?!?! wtf.....same problem persists.

 

[AJ'S 88NA]

Have you verified all your timing marks are lined up, # 1 piston at TDC, rotor pointing at # 1 plug wire? Also when you timed it with a timing light, did you jump Te1 and E1 in the diagnostic box?

Seems like it may be a timing problem.

 

[PureDrifter]

Have you verified all your timing marks are lined up, # 1 piston at TDC, rotor pointing at # 1 plug wire? Also when you timed it with a timing light, did you jump Te1 and E1 in the diagnostic box?

Seems like it may be a timing problem.

timing was set using TSRM procedure, i'll try to get some time away during this week to double check TDC and rotor status. though, if there was a problem with rotor position, would the car run as well as it does over 2.5k rpm?

thanks for the help so far guys

 

[Nick M]

I will come back later unless JJ, 3p, chip or somebody else comes first.

 

[3p141592654]

If you want your car to run properly you need to clear all codes. The STA signal is important, and it's just a simple tap on the starter circuit to the ECU.

 

[PureDrifter]

the tap i want is already on order, just waiting for it to get here

 

[jetjock]

Huh? What tap would that be?

 

[PureDrifter]

i've learned my lesson in the past from using cheap no brand electronics components for important circuits, have some 3M 953 10-12gauge self-stripping taps on order, so i can unplug the sta wire (from the engine harness) from my own starter wiring to make future removal less of a pain. Didn't want to use a quick-tap or solder as i want the ability to disconnect the harness.

it's an acceptable go-between from an inline nonremovable splice and a proper aircraft grade plug that's just overkill at this point

 

[jetjock]

I see. Well, those are still IDC. A poor choice even if they are branded but it's your call.