removing ac compressor and ps pump akt. etc. isnt really needed right? planning to do a 1J swap here soon.
7M-GTE Engine removal in 49 easy steps - questions
- Thread starter Supra-K
- Start date
This depends on what your goals are.Supra-K said:
If you pull the AC compressor with the engine, then you'll have to disconnect it from the rest of the AC system, which means you'll discharge the entire thing, getting it refilled it a bit of a bitch. And seriously, unbolting it from the engine is easy.
Same deal with the power steering - it's easier to unbolt it and leave it in the car than it is to disconnect it from the steering rack. Especially when you consider that unbolting from the engine doesn't need any new parts to reconnect it - whereas pulling the lines from the steering rack means you need to get new crush washers from Toyota when you put it back on.
i got my engine off the car in one day, i removed my cylinder head, left the air conditioned compressor in the car and the power stering too, really easy.
I would leave the power steering and a/c on the car because once you take it off you have to recharge the a/c (just as grimjack stated) and not to mention bleed the power steering rack as well. A friend of mine took them both off when he removed his car and it delayed his swap for an extra day. When I did mine I left them on and was able to pull out the old motor and put the new one in the same day. Started in the morning and was able to start the car later that evening, so the leaving it on will save you some headaches...and money:icon_bigg
what?? I just drained the fluid out of my power steering(though it still leaked everywhere anyways) and disconnected the lines to the pump and pulled the pump out with the engine. I don't see how it would be even able to stay in the engine bay??GrimJack said:
Yep, I just unbolted like grimjack said and zip tied it to the chassis...no leaking fluid...and no buying new washers and fluid. It's easier this way...I did the same thing when I swapped out my brothers 2jz in his lexus and my sis's V6 camry too...
A/C is a pain, I agree, but the PS system isn't that bad.
The A/C system can't be recharged with R12 anymore, so if you've got it, you'll want to keep it.
The PS system on the other hand can be bled by anyone. The simplicity of removing the one banjo bolt and one hose clamp from the PS pump, and bleeding the system later seems enough easier to make it worthwhile.
Of course in my case, since I was janking out a 7M-GE with a dead PS pump and dropping in a 7M-GTE with a working one, so it was really not a choice.
The A/C system can't be recharged with R12 anymore, so if you've got it, you'll want to keep it.
The PS system on the other hand can be bled by anyone. The simplicity of removing the one banjo bolt and one hose clamp from the PS pump, and bleeding the system later seems enough easier to make it worthwhile.
Of course in my case, since I was janking out a 7M-GE with a dead PS pump and dropping in a 7M-GTE with a working one, so it was really not a choice.
Yes, the use and sale of CFC12 is legal in the US. I think it's outright banned in Canada though so that's where the confusion maybe originates. Anyway, it's not all that hard to get here but it's spendy.
JJ is correct, it's completely banned up here. The fines for using it are freaking HUGE - as in, big enough that it would put pretty much any independent shop out of business.
^ That's seems sort of twisted being that it was the Montreal Protocol that started the entire thing 
I never take the A.C. compressor or p.s. pump out of any vehicle for a motor swap.
Refilling the A/C requires conversion to r134a in this car. Clean out all the old oil, install new fittings, vacuum and leak tests, fill with new retrofit oil, and freon. PITA. R12 is almost as expensive as the retrofit kit, and you still have to vacuum, leak test, and fill the system. AND you have to have a license to buy it(at least here). I don't even own a set of r12 gauges anymore. Some of the old timers might, though :biglaugh:
The p.s. just makes a mess if you remove the pump, and its easy to get off. 2 bolts, both easy to get to, and tie it to the frame or sway bar.
Refilling the A/C requires conversion to r134a in this car. Clean out all the old oil, install new fittings, vacuum and leak tests, fill with new retrofit oil, and freon. PITA. R12 is almost as expensive as the retrofit kit, and you still have to vacuum, leak test, and fill the system. AND you have to have a license to buy it(at least here). I don't even own a set of r12 gauges anymore. Some of the old timers might, though :biglaugh:
The p.s. just makes a mess if you remove the pump, and its easy to get off. 2 bolts, both easy to get to, and tie it to the frame or sway bar.
Lol. Not only do I own a manifold set but also a recovery machine and identifier. I also own 60 pounds of the stuff bought 8 years ago. It's beaten the NASDAQ and then some
Adjuster
Supramania Contributor
Leave your PS pump and system in the car. Same goes for the AC system. Just unbolt the compressor and power steering pump, and leave them inside the engine bay. Easy as can be.
The whole freon deal is our ignorant politicians at their very best.
R134a takes at least 25% more in volume to equal the same system designed for R12. (A much better CFC.) So with every 4 vehicles on the road, Dupont sells another 1.5lbs or so of this.. Gee, I wonder why they did not complain when the "government" spured on by dumbass environmentalists told everyone that CFC's are distroying the Ozone layer... (They are not, but that's government idiots at their best, outlawing something that does not cause ozone to become depleted...)
The reality is, all CFC's, R12 included are HEAVIER than air... So they do not rise up and destroy the Ozone... No, they find the lowest point they can, generally sewer drains and go there to break down and die/disperse...
Sure, some claim that the broken down "parts" of Freon then go up and attack Ozone, but it's only a theory, and one that appears to have been debunked, but then ignored as the Ozone as recoverd on it's own.. (And likely created a hole on it's own too, but we can't have Man NOT responsible for natural changes on this planet, now can we? LOL )
Ok, if you need R12, it is as easy as going South of the Border my friends. They sell it in Mexico, and it's cheap. You can buy R12 just about anywhere in the USA, and it helps if you have your own 30lb bottle in the garage next to a hanging manifold/gauge/hose recharge combination... (I used to do A/C recharges and work throughout the 80's and into the 90s when the silly laws changed into effect in 94, and the R134a became mandatory on new cars after that.. (Note that the makers of the cars did not just change all the vehicles condensors and evaporators and compressors to ones that were 25% larger.. No they waited untill the next re-design of the car, so if you are un-fortunate to have a car from 94 to the next re-design of your vehicle, the A/C system sucks on hot days.. It can't keep up. (The gas used is just not effective enough... So it takes more energy to run the new Eco friendly ones too... But you are saving the planet right? LOL )
Resist the idea of changing to R134a. It sucks as a CFC in A/C applications.
Rant off.
The whole freon deal is our ignorant politicians at their very best.
R134a takes at least 25% more in volume to equal the same system designed for R12. (A much better CFC.) So with every 4 vehicles on the road, Dupont sells another 1.5lbs or so of this.. Gee, I wonder why they did not complain when the "government" spured on by dumbass environmentalists told everyone that CFC's are distroying the Ozone layer... (They are not, but that's government idiots at their best, outlawing something that does not cause ozone to become depleted...)
The reality is, all CFC's, R12 included are HEAVIER than air... So they do not rise up and destroy the Ozone... No, they find the lowest point they can, generally sewer drains and go there to break down and die/disperse...
Sure, some claim that the broken down "parts" of Freon then go up and attack Ozone, but it's only a theory, and one that appears to have been debunked, but then ignored as the Ozone as recoverd on it's own.. (And likely created a hole on it's own too, but we can't have Man NOT responsible for natural changes on this planet, now can we? LOL
)Ok, if you need R12, it is as easy as going South of the Border my friends. They sell it in Mexico, and it's cheap. You can buy R12 just about anywhere in the USA, and it helps if you have your own 30lb bottle in the garage next to a hanging manifold/gauge/hose recharge combination...
(I used to do A/C recharges and work throughout the 80's and into the 90s when the silly laws changed into effect in 94, and the R134a became mandatory on new cars after that.. (Note that the makers of the cars did not just change all the vehicles condensors and evaporators and compressors to ones that were 25% larger.. No they waited untill the next re-design of the car, so if you are un-fortunate to have a car from 94 to the next re-design of your vehicle, the A/C system sucks on hot days.. It can't keep up. (The gas used is just not effective enough... So it takes more energy to run the new Eco friendly ones too... But you are saving the planet right? LOL )Resist the idea of changing to R134a. It sucks as a CFC in A/C applications.
Rant off.
lol for JJ.
Good point Adjuster. I use r134a in mine, and it does ok in the summer here in East Texas, but it won't freeze you out. Now my friends '07 Chevy truck, I have to carry a jacket year round.
Good point Adjuster. I use r134a in mine, and it does ok in the summer here in East Texas, but it won't freeze you out. Now my friends '07 Chevy truck, I have to carry a jacket year round.
oh well I i just unbolted the lines from both and took it with the engine. My entire a/c system though when I removed it was dry as a bone though......
As for p/s I just put it all back together and poured some more ATF fluid back in the canister. I havn't started the engine yet.SO how do i go about bleeding it though???
As for p/s I just put it all back together and poured some more ATF fluid back in the canister. I havn't started the engine yet.SO how do i go about bleeding it though???
Bleeding it is easy, just fill it up, jack up the front, start the car, and move the steering back and forth from lock to lock. Keep adding fluid. Continue doing so until it doesn't look foamy in the resevoir anymore and the level is where it should be.
Bleeding the PS system is easy, but I suppose that it's true that it makes a mess when pulling the motor to leave it in as well. In my case, it was literally easier to leave the PS pumps attached to the motors, though.