I have an 88 supra with an aristo 2j swap. It's been running great until about a month ago it crapped out on me. I topped a blind hill, didn't know it then became a turn, and slammed on the brakes. The car shortly died afterwards and refused to start. I can turn the key and after roughly 5 seconds its like their isn't enough power to start it. Almost like its drawing power from somewhere. I just finished my battery relocation to the trunk and still does the same thing. Please help! I am missing my baby :'(
2jzgte swapped mk3 will crank but not start
- Thread starter SupraDuD3
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make sure that you ground the battery into the trunk as well as the front of the car . I grounded mine to the therear latch assy . Had the same problem hope this is your fix.
I have mine grounded where the nut holds in the spare tire. I scraped the paint off to give it a better ground. Where the ground was on the motor, I grounded it to where the battery sat and scraped the paint off there as well for a better ground. Only thing I am curious about is does the fuse block have to be grounded? I think I removed the wire because it looked pointless.
Fuse block does not need a ground.
It needs a hot wire that is in the stock positive cable terminal.
Are you getting fuel, spark and pulse? Does your engine block have a ground?
It needs a hot wire that is in the stock positive cable terminal.
Are you getting fuel, spark and pulse? Does your engine block have a ground?
SupraDuD3;1764847 said:
No, don't run any wires. Second, you have fuel and spark, pulse is for the injector. Everytime it opens or closes, it is a pulse. You will need a noid light kit, which can be found at your local parts store like Harbor Freight. Just put a light into the pigtail, crank, and it if lights up, you have pulse.
I have seen instances where you have all the following and the at won't start, then you will have to check your timing marks. A user on here, Empera, had an issue like this and had all the above, spark, fuel, pulse and timing was right. His problem was all his injectors were stuck closed, given that, this was the first time trying to start the car. I don't believe that is what happened here.
If you want to avoid buying the noise light, pull all the plugs and crank the motor. You should smell fuel in the cylinders.
Another way would be to get a can of starting fluid. Take out the intercooler pipe at the throttle body, open the butterfly, spray some starting fluid inside there, connect back the pipe and try to crank and see what happens. If it does start and run for a little bit, you then know your problem is that fuel is not making it's way into the cylinders.
I say, get the bottle of starting fluid and do what I said.
Ok ill try that before the weekend is over. But it seems like its definitely something electrical. A car that isn't getting fuel or spark should still sit and crank for a good bit. Not just die after 5 seconds of holding the key down like mine is doing. Not trying to sound like an asshole man.
Ok, check your timing? Is your map sensor plugged in and getting 5V and giving a signal? There is fuel in the cylinders?
Try spray some starting fluid in there by opening the butterfly and then crank.
Try spray some starting fluid in there by opening the butterfly and then crank.
ifyouaint1sturlast
Banned Scammer - I'm whitemike.
Have you had your battery tested? Recheck all connections for the battery relocation kit? The problem does sound electrical. Kinda sounds like you alternator may be weak and when you came to a stop your battery did not have enough life left to support the car. Thats just a guess though, happened to me on one of my 1J's.
O and your battery should be around 12-13 volts but that doesnt matter when it comes to cranking the motor, its the amps produced by the battery that does.
O and your battery should be around 12-13 volts but that doesnt matter when it comes to cranking the motor, its the amps produced by the battery that does.
Thanx dragon. Yes I got the battery checked and its BRAND new and still good. I believe it has 675 cold cranking amps. Also got the alternator checked and it tested good. ALTHOUGH, I got it checked at an auto parts store, I do believe I should take it to an actual shop that rebuilds alternators and see if their test says different.
ifyouaint1sturlast
Banned Scammer - I'm whitemike.
Must be grounds then right? If your battery has enough power, but it's not getting to the components..
ifyouaint1sturlast
Banned Scammer - I'm whitemike.
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