2JZ NA-T into MK3
- Thread starter jmcboost
- Start date
Not much of an update. I am still cleaning. I took the head to get it checked out and the machine shop said it looked good as far as not being warped. :icon_bigg . I was concerned about this because the head bolts were on sooooo tight. I did order a Cometic MHG and ARPS today.
OK, so I finally got a gasket set in and proceeded with taking off the oil pan and drilling the hole for the return line and also replacing the rear main seal. Does anybody know the best way to check the rotating assembly without taking apart anything. It all looks good so I don't want to take it apart if I don't have to. Here are some pics of what I did.
Attachments
The only way to really check it is to take it apart.
However, if your cylinder walls still have the cross hatch showing then you are most likely good. If you have any type of scoring on the cylinder walls then your engine probably experienced a low oil condition at some time and it is possible that you have some bearing damage.
Assuming that your cylinder walls dont show any significant wear, then I think you are AOK. If you really want to check everything then you will have to take the engine apart and pull out the pistons.
However, if your cylinder walls still have the cross hatch showing then you are most likely good. If you have any type of scoring on the cylinder walls then your engine probably experienced a low oil condition at some time and it is possible that you have some bearing damage.
Assuming that your cylinder walls dont show any significant wear, then I think you are AOK. If you really want to check everything then you will have to take the engine apart and pull out the pistons.
OK, so I got the cometic MHG in and man it is a lot thicker then the stocker (thats what she said). Here are some pics. Does this look right. Let me know. Also any "need to knows" on how to correctly secure it with the ARP studs back on the motor.
Attachments
jmcboost said:
If your finger nail can get caught in it, then you have a problem, I doubt it though.
man! the more i read the more i wanna get back home and finish my car up. good luck on everything man.
OK, so I put the ARP head studs on, the head gasket and the head back on . I have not tightened the head down yet. Can you guys think of anything special I need to do before I tighten this head down. I cleaned the block deck and the head surface off again with carb cleaner and checked for any debris. I used the ARP moly lube but not too much (enough to cover the lower half of the threads) on the lower studs cuz I thought I may run out. I will put more on the top studs since there is plenty left. Is this OK? Thanks for the help. As you can tell I want to make sure this part is flawless.
Attachments
silent_sniper said:
I am still finishing up putting the head back together. I just need to get the cams in and buy a new timing belt and water pump. After that my plan is to purchase the bell housing, clutch and manifold setup. As soon as I get some more done I will take pics.
Update: I have purchase a few more parts like: motor brackets/mounts, 1JZ flywheel, and started fabing a FFIM. I should have some more pics soon.
For anybody that can help. What would be the best, stick with the stock 7M power steering pump or use the 2J power steering pump. Will the 2J work on the 7M rack? Let me know if anyone has done this.
For anybody that can help. What would be the best, stick with the stock 7M power steering pump or use the 2J power steering pump. Will the 2J work on the 7M rack? Let me know if anyone has done this.
jmcboost said:
i wouldnt see why it wouldnt as long as the lines are there. from high pressure line from pump =>to rack =>to rack to cooler => cooler to resovoir => resovoir back to pump
reading over your question again, though, i think i answered the wrong question lol