2JZ-GE-T Build - 89 Turbo Supra

[XofXtimeX]

***Taking a few steps back to do a stock rebuild***

-Nick-

 

[XofXtimeX]

Okay some pictures just so show some damaged bearing action. Not spun but they do look like they might have been starved for oil at one point in time.

Here they are:

Only thing that kind of sucks, but not really lol, is I did a lot of work cleaning up the deck which I didn't need to do but oh well. No biggie.

And yes of course I have a picture:

Okay done for tonight. I'll let you guys know what the machine shop says. *Crossing Fingers*

Thanks!

-Nick-

 

[dok33]

Subscribed Nice work so far, I'm liking the picture rich thread! Looks like I need to post more pics of my dogs to keep up :biglaugh:

You in Arlington VA or TX?

 

[XofXtimeX]

Thanks man! Haha yeah pictures of the dog just seemed fitting at the time.

I'm in Arlington, Texas. Not sure how long of a drive it is away from a fellow 2JZ-GE-T MKIII. Are you on 7M ECU and harness?

I was thinking about the rest of the stuff I can do while the block is in the machine shop...
I figured I could:

Take the CPS off of my car and drill the holes ahead of time.

I might be able to run the intercooler piping considering the setup will be very similar to the 7M with the intake manifold. (DOK33 did you have to do any cutting on the car while running your intercooler piping? I plan on having to cut the pipes.)

Tap the 2JZ fuel rail to use my 7M FPR.

Now onto stuff I just need to get done when 7M/Harness are pulled. Could I do the wiring outside of the car? As long as I put the plugs for the ECU at a logical place.

Wiring following Scott's post : http://www.supramania.com/forums/showpost.php?p=481801&postcount=34

Grind the bracket to run A/C. Now which bracket do I need to grind? I was looking at the PS bracket picture you had on your thread DOK but I couldn't make out which bracket that was on my engine.

What else am I forgetting?

Thanks guys!

-Nick-

 

[Bigzavs]

nick, for the bracket just come over and look at my motor

 

[dok33]

Cool, you should come down for the fall Hill Country cruise

I am running 7M electronics, and you can wire everything up before dropping the motor in no problem and then just run the ECU connectors through the firewall once the engine is in.

For the PS-I know your engine isn't there, but if you can kind of hold the PS pump on it's bracket above the A/C comp with the 7M outlet plate on it you can probably see where it needs to be ground. Basically just need space to get the lines/bolts in there. Seeing Bigzavs would help too as it took me a while to figure out what people were talking about

 

[XofXtimeX]

When in the fall is it? I go to school in Indiana and I'm renting a house up there this year so I'll need to leave around the 22nd to go up there and get settled in.

Okay cool I just wanted to make sure. What about the VSVs underneath the 7M intake manifold? Just make sure they're plugged in and bolt them to the intake manifold on the 2JZ?

The sensors in the 7M thermostat housing... Where do they thread in on the 2JZ? I found a similar sensor near the rear of the head on the 2JZ and was wondering if thats where it goes.

Thanks a ton man.

-Nick-

 

[dok33]

Cruise is usually in October so that might not work...

I just ditched the VSVs and clipped the wires back, the 2J ones are in different spots and I didn't feel like figuring it out. Haven't noticed any issues. As far as the temp sensors, they're both towards the front of the motor in the block, I thought I had a pic but I can't find it. I know there was one in someone else's build thread though, Yankiwi maybe?

 

[XofXtimeX]

I haven't really been up to much aside from cleaning and painting. I actually cleaned the oil pan instead of just cleaning up parts of it. I'll get finished pictures up tomorrow hopefully.
So I cleaned:
Oil Pan
Cam Gears
Valve Covers
Lexus AFM

I painted: (Both flat black)
Upper timing cover
Cam Gears.

Since the timing cover has already been cut by the previous owner and I cant find another cover, I'm using this McDonalds style cover My logic behind painting the gears was "Well they're going to be showing whether I like it or not... Might as well make them "disappear..." Lol

I need to paint the valve covers but they definitely need bead blasting first.

Pics:

Cleaning supplies and cam gears. Left untouched and right has been cleaned:

Closer:

Cleaned up valve covers. That's hardened dirt and grim. I CANNOT get it off with degreaser or scrubbing or both for that matter.

Upper timing cover:

Cleaning the pan. I don't have a completed shot of it but this is a comparison of the side that was cleaned and obviously the side that hasn't:

Welp that's it so far.

Should be taking the 7M out tomorrow. Woot!

Thanks!

-Nick-

 

[dok33]

Lookin good!

 

[XofXtimeX]

Thanks man!

Pulling the 7M today. Well hopefully. There isn't much of the day left but I don't have too much left.

Unbolt the AC comp.
Unbolt the PS pump.
Undo various grounds around the engine.
ETC.

The shifter and DS are out. Trans fluid drained, coolant drained, oil drained, radiator taken out, fan taken off, slave cylinder unbolted.

When I took the DS out, the rear of it slipped out of the yoke and put a nice dent into the pavement... Lol. Good thing I was a ways away.

However it looks awfully cloudy outside and im not sure if I'll be able to pull it today... But I've got someone picking up the turbo and DDP tomorrow so thats got to be off for sure.

Thanks guys.

-Nick-

 

[XofXtimeX]

Okay. Today I was able to get around to pulling the 7M out but I didn't take any pictures.





























Kidding...

Ready to take out.

Rear end up on stands.

Insert hoist here:

So um... I needed another breaker bar... I didn't have one. But I did have...

7M on the stand

Worn out clutch anyone?

Sleeping.

My dumb ass broke an engine mount bolt haha. It was early, I was tired and... Nevermind, there is no excuse it was a dumb mistake lol.

Thanks for looking guys.

-Nick-

 

[XofXtimeX]

The block is back from the machine shop. Woot! Tomorrow is assembly time

Pictures pictures pictures...

Freeze Plugs from China

Bearings and piston rings.

Thanks for tuning in.

-Nick-

 

[XofXtimeX]

Also suggestions on exhaust? I'm currently running the Tanabe HM and I love the look however it's too quiet. Should I do something crazy and delete the resonator or gut the muffler? Mind you this system was quiet when running straight pipe from the turbo back.

I'd like to keep the muffler however if I found a nice exhaust to really get the sound of a singled 2JZ, I'd be happy.

What are you fellow 2JZ-NA-Ters running?

Thanks.

-Nick-

 

[100mgbluepill]

Are you seriously going to use phillips head screws for the return flange?

 

[XofXtimeX]

It was originally for a test fit however they are very snug. I had seen some people use them on Club NA-T and I've seen no issues yet. I originally bought these as the hardware store was the only place open and we couldn't find the correct size bolts so we found it in screws.

So I'm debating on keeping them but I might switch them out.

-Nick-

 

[Bigzavs]

looks good nick

you should paint that block while its out, make it look all perdy

 

[XofXtimeX]

Man I was thinking about it but I can't decide on a color. I'd love to go with flat black but theres not much of a point in painting it flat black if I want to trace leaks lol.

Grey maybe? I don't know. Thoughts?

-Nick-

 

[dok33]

Grey is a good color for leak detection and still looks good. Just don't do what I did on the first motor I built for my 4-Runner way back when:

:biglaugh:

On the exhaust, I'm running a 935 3" DIY exhaust with a Megan GT muffler. It's loud but I really like the sound...

 

[hottscennessey]

I'm doing mine grey, I did it on my other block and it came out great.

I think that any 3" exhaust will be fine for your goals Nick.