Small Summary of what am working on
2jzge engine
TT Pistons/Rings
TT headgasket
Arp Head Studs
cowboy Bebop(sp) cams
Crower Springs/ Retainers
Stock Head with street Pnp/ Valve Job
I've been doing some good searching on here, sf, and club na-t about reusing or buying new factory rod/main bolts or spending the money and getting the arp studs. The money isn't a factor but if you can save some money why not. Well really its more like lets keep it simple if we can.
My concern though is if you bought the arp main studs- a few people have mentioned that you need to get your main caps line honed to see if everything is within specs.
I thought it would just be like a head stud and drop in and torque em down but i guess not. Why not reuse the stock bolts since Curt at Elmhurst mentioned you can do that aslong the bolts are still within specs.
How can you tell if the bolts are still within specs (might be stupid question)? Guess compare stock length to used bolt and compare specs.
Also since the stock 2jz bolts are TTY bolts why not get brand new bolts from Curt/ Jeff W. for like 50 bucks. The whole 2jz block been proven to 900whp. To me right there is a save bet and if you did lose a rod or crank walked you'd have other problems than the cause of factory bolts.
Also last question: am guessing the stock main/ rod bolts for the 2jz are the same from either lexus sc300 or NA/ TT Supra? I called up my lexus dealer and they'd just give me the last 5 numbers and match with the 2jzgte quote Curt ( 02104 for $4.67 and 46020 for $4.27).
Part Numbers am talking about:
stock rod bolts: 13265-46020 BOLT, LIST 3.43 COST 2.58 EA X 12 (quote from late'07)
stock main bolts: 90910-02104 BOLT LIST 3.69 COST 2.78 EA X 14 (quote from late'07)
Arp Main Studs: ARP 203-5405
Arp Rod Studs: ARP 203-6005
I'll double check the arp numbers when i get home but am pretty sure thats them.
2jzge engine
TT Pistons/Rings
TT headgasket
Arp Head Studs
cowboy Bebop(sp) cams
Crower Springs/ Retainers
Stock Head with street Pnp/ Valve Job
I've been doing some good searching on here, sf, and club na-t about reusing or buying new factory rod/main bolts or spending the money and getting the arp studs. The money isn't a factor but if you can save some money why not. Well really its more like lets keep it simple if we can.
My concern though is if you bought the arp main studs- a few people have mentioned that you need to get your main caps line honed to see if everything is within specs.
I thought it would just be like a head stud and drop in and torque em down but i guess not. Why not reuse the stock bolts since Curt at Elmhurst mentioned you can do that aslong the bolts are still within specs.
How can you tell if the bolts are still within specs (might be stupid question)? Guess compare stock length to used bolt and compare specs.
Also since the stock 2jz bolts are TTY bolts why not get brand new bolts from Curt/ Jeff W. for like 50 bucks. The whole 2jz block been proven to 900whp. To me right there is a save bet and if you did lose a rod or crank walked you'd have other problems than the cause of factory bolts.
Also last question: am guessing the stock main/ rod bolts for the 2jz are the same from either lexus sc300 or NA/ TT Supra? I called up my lexus dealer and they'd just give me the last 5 numbers and match with the 2jzgte quote Curt ( 02104 for $4.67 and 46020 for $4.27).
Part Numbers am talking about:
stock rod bolts: 13265-46020 BOLT, LIST 3.43 COST 2.58 EA X 12 (quote from late'07)
stock main bolts: 90910-02104 BOLT LIST 3.69 COST 2.78 EA X 14 (quote from late'07)
Arp Main Studs: ARP 203-5405
Arp Rod Studs: ARP 203-6005
I'll double check the arp numbers when i get home but am pretty sure thats them.
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