I have no ac on and I'm running the 2j water pump. Like I'll be driving and then out of now where espcially when I'm boosting I hear this churning. At first I thought I was my turbos, but I'm now sure it's the belt. Like right after it slips I smell the burnt rubber. I found similar stories on here, none that explained on how to tighten the serpentine belt or what was the problem.
1jz serpentine slipping at around 5000 rpm
- Thread starter Mightymousekid
- Start date
It only takes a little bit of looking to find out..
http://store.driftmotion.com/static/i-1jz2jzserpentinebelttensioner.php
http://store.driftmotion.com/static/i-1jz2jzserpentinebelttensioner.php
Mightymousekid;1720024 said:
Can always fabricate a manual tensioner, but you wouldn't have posted this thread if you were in the habit of making custom parts. Besides, I seem to remember a few threads discussing WHY Toyota put in an auto-tensioner rather than the manual units found on the M-series.
They keep constant tension and pick up the slack when the motor is revved. Plus they make it a lot easier to change the belts.
Really? How would I go upon doing one? I was just thinking ok taking it out and just reinforcing for the time being.
How exactly were you going to do that? Just curious.
No need to over think it or ghettofy it. The toyota and yamaha engineers did enough research on it before it went into productiong.
The tensioner can move so far one way and the other way. When moving the tensioner as to take the belt off, when you go as far as it will that way it has the most tension on it and you can feel that it gets tighter and tighter and harder to move. Obviously at full lock the other way it has no tension. You want it basically right in the middle give or take some.
So take a mental picture of where yours is now, then take the belt off see where lock is one way, then go to the other, then take a mental picture of where it is in the middle. IF your is close to no tension you need a smaller belt.
Btw what belt did you use?
No need to over think it or ghettofy it. The toyota and yamaha engineers did enough research on it before it went into productiong.
The tensioner can move so far one way and the other way. When moving the tensioner as to take the belt off, when you go as far as it will that way it has the most tension on it and you can feel that it gets tighter and tighter and harder to move. Obviously at full lock the other way it has no tension. You want it basically right in the middle give or take some.
So take a mental picture of where yours is now, then take the belt off see where lock is one way, then go to the other, then take a mental picture of where it is in the middle. IF your is close to no tension you need a smaller belt.
Btw what belt did you use?
Yeah your right, but when I put my hand down on the belt and push it down it has no tension at all. I know I need a need knew one but I'm gonna see if o can go the cheaper route than DM. Oh and I was gonna tighten it by lifting up the tensioner and solder some spots so it'll stay on the desired tension. Lol
Solder is not going to hold it.
25 is cheap. Really cheap.
But if you must search for the cheapest one try autozone and get a 2jzgte one(iirc the 2jzge one is the same size.). mk4 supra.
Iirc i used a 2jZgte one and mine belt is fine up to 6k.
25 is cheap. Really cheap.
But if you must search for the cheapest one try autozone and get a 2jzgte one(iirc the 2jzge one is the same size.). mk4 supra.
Iirc i used a 2jZgte one and mine belt is fine up to 6k.
Lol I was just messing around. There's actually some guy that I just met a while ago. He sold me a used one for 40 bucks, looks absolutely brand new. Has a lot of tension, now to put it on. And trust dudes, I learned the hard way when I went through my swap, cost me a fortune. Next time I'll just buy a freaking clip!!!! Lol