Okay so this is my first post here. I have a 1987 automatic non turbo supra.
So my car was running just fine, starts right up (except on hot days, usually took a few times to start. But when it did, it was fine). Sometimes it had a low idle after it started on hot days, but after like a minute or so it sorted itself out just fine.
So I recently just did my timing belt, water pump, replaced radiator with an aluminum duel core Mishimoto, new NGK spark plugs and wires (did everything about 4 months ago). Oh and yes my timing is set corect. Fuel pump and filter along with the distributor got replaced right when I purchased the car. I've done quite a bit to this car over the past year and a half since I bought it. Since the previous owner let it sit not running for about a year :3d_frown:
Now I'm having an idle issue after my car warms up and I shut it off. First "cold" start up is perfect, I can drive the car all day and it will be fine. But as soon as I shut it off, about 10 minutes later I start it, it idles rough. The first start up idle is 1100, after the second start up (usually when I leave the store or go for a drive), it goes down to 900, and when put in drive about 600, and feels like it's about to stall but doesn't. Almost like it's running on 5 cylinders, and sounds like crap when I step on the gas a bit. (like it's miss firing slightly)
I tried looking everywhere and can't find a solution. Only thing I can think of is maybe a heat soak problem, like maybe some electrical connections get affected by the heat and causes it to idle really low. Or some kind of vapor lock with the fuel. But if I let it sit for a few hours, it'll start right up and idles just fine like it would in the morning before I go to work.
And before you ask, I checked the codes and the only one that comes up is code 51. And I checked the resistance on the cold start injector and the cold start injector timing switch (the thing on top of the thermostat housing). On the cold start injector (when car is cold) 4.5 ohms, when it's hot 5.2ohms or higher. For the Cold start injector timing switch (when car is cold) 50-65ohms, when it's hot it doesn't give a reading... 0 ohms.
So if I can get some help with this that would be awesome, because it's my daily driver and if I can't fix it soon, I'm gonna have to go to a shop :/
So my car was running just fine, starts right up (except on hot days, usually took a few times to start. But when it did, it was fine). Sometimes it had a low idle after it started on hot days, but after like a minute or so it sorted itself out just fine.
So I recently just did my timing belt, water pump, replaced radiator with an aluminum duel core Mishimoto, new NGK spark plugs and wires (did everything about 4 months ago). Oh and yes my timing is set corect. Fuel pump and filter along with the distributor got replaced right when I purchased the car. I've done quite a bit to this car over the past year and a half since I bought it. Since the previous owner let it sit not running for about a year :3d_frown:
Now I'm having an idle issue after my car warms up and I shut it off. First "cold" start up is perfect, I can drive the car all day and it will be fine. But as soon as I shut it off, about 10 minutes later I start it, it idles rough. The first start up idle is 1100, after the second start up (usually when I leave the store or go for a drive), it goes down to 900, and when put in drive about 600, and feels like it's about to stall but doesn't. Almost like it's running on 5 cylinders, and sounds like crap when I step on the gas a bit. (like it's miss firing slightly)
I tried looking everywhere and can't find a solution. Only thing I can think of is maybe a heat soak problem, like maybe some electrical connections get affected by the heat and causes it to idle really low. Or some kind of vapor lock with the fuel. But if I let it sit for a few hours, it'll start right up and idles just fine like it would in the morning before I go to work.
And before you ask, I checked the codes and the only one that comes up is code 51. And I checked the resistance on the cold start injector and the cold start injector timing switch (the thing on top of the thermostat housing). On the cold start injector (when car is cold) 4.5 ohms, when it's hot 5.2ohms or higher. For the Cold start injector timing switch (when car is cold) 50-65ohms, when it's hot it doesn't give a reading... 0 ohms.
So if I can get some help with this that would be awesome, because it's my daily driver and if I can't fix it soon, I'm gonna have to go to a shop :/
