1987 MK3 Resto

[Smartparts]

First off, Hello everyone. I've wanted a Supra of my own ever since I rode in my fathers 1987 NA 5-speed. I could hear him coming home every night downshifting.

For my Supra, I wasn't picky about condition, but it absolutely had to have these 4 things:

1.) Turbo
2.) Manual
3.) Targa
4.) Clean Title

After checking the entire north east craigslist postings everyday for a few months I finally found it in Enfield CT. I drove out an hour to look at it, and it wasn't in the best cosmetic condition. The paint on the bumper is bad, and the seats are torn up pretty badly. It also hass 215-230k miles on it.

For $2000 I didn't think the price was terrible. The car drove strong(It seems like it) and the turbo pulls hard. Other than a manual boost controller it is stock. It has a boost gauge installed in a 3 pod on the pillar, thats it.

The bad:
Power Steering
Speedometer
Odometer
Gas gauge
Driver's side lock
Steering Wheel
Seats
Paint

The Good:
No Rust
Engine Runs
Manual
Turbo
Super Monitor
TEMS

I should add that I have never worked on a car engine before. But I am mechanically inclined and I feel up for most anything. I also have the opportunity to buy a complete engine with harness and ecu, from a 1988, minus the header and turbo for $250. It is said to have 86k miles on it and have had the head gasket replaced. I am thinking about buying it if not just for the extra engine, but for the parts.

I have the bible, but I am very open to ideas, and criticism, and hope to gain insight from fellow users. In the few days I have been reading here there is a vast wealth of information and I'm doing my best to learn what I can

Goals for the car are to restore it to a condition I won't be embarrassed by and then eventually start doing some actual engine mods. First it has to be maintained.

 

[Devin LeBlanc]

Looks like a good start! Some new seats and a re spray of the front bumper it will look good!

 

[closetnerd]

Don't feel bad, my front bumper looks the same. At least you have fog lights.

 

[wills_jdm]

its not bad dude.. it will clean up really nice. just a few things here and there like the seats and bumper. My supras speedo didnt work when i got it and that is a pretty easy fix, and once you fix the speedo the odometer will work too.. good luck!

 

[spencyg]

Are you SURE it doesn't have any rust? I'd be shocked if you actually found a 23 year old Supra from the Northeast that didn't. Totally shocked. You need to remove the rear bumper and really poke around in the rear fender wells to see for sure. Now is the time to fix anything you find, as it is a very unfortunate thing to find rust after you've gone through all the trouble elsewhere in the car to restore it. The key spots to check are the fender wells in the rear, the area behind the gas tank fill pipe (behind a trim cover), all of the areas behind the bumper cover, and the sheetmetal under the forward quarter trim just behind the door (just above the rocker panel behind the door). Also double check the spare tire well.

If all of that checks out, than you are indeed a very lucky man. $2k in the Northeast for a rust free Supra is an excellent bargain.

SG in NE

 

[limequat]

Cool. That tan leather is very rare (and for good reason )

 

[Koenigturbo]

Tan interior in a grey car how did that happen?

 

[Smartparts]

Are you SURE it doesn't have any rust? I'd be shocked if you actually found a 23 year old Supra from the Northeast that didn't. Totally shocked. You need to remove the rear bumper and really poke around in the rear fender wells to see for sure. Now is the time to fix anything you find, as it is a very unfortunate thing to find rust after you've gone through all the trouble elsewhere in the car to restore it. The key spots to check are the fender wells in the rear, the area behind the gas tank fill pipe (behind a trim cover), all of the areas behind the bumper cover, and the sheetmetal under the forward quarter trim just behind the door (just above the rocker panel behind the door). Also double check the spare tire well.

If all of that checks out, than you are indeed a very lucky man. $2k in the Northeast for a rust free Supra is an excellent bargain.

SG in NE

Thanks for the words of encouragement everyone. My friends look at it and see an eyesore, I see a car with potential. I will do as you said and do a thorough check for rust. I really only looked where I could see and wasn't thorough. I should have said that this car was originally a florida car sold in delray beach florida . I even have the original window sticker from the dealership and receipts from when it was trailered up here. Im going to have the seats redone professionally and repaint the whole car but not untill I make sure that its worth dumping money into. Of my current inspection the chassis and body are the best things about the car

 

[limequat]

Tan interior in a grey car how did that happen?

I think that's actually beige/brown.

 

[Smartparts]

Its light brown paint. I didn't know it came in that color, and its not my favorite but what can ya do?

I did some light work, not getting home till its pitch black out, and also it being below freezing outside doesn't make it easy. I decided to tackle the problem with the speedometer, so I started pulling the cluster. I got it out with relative ease. I just hope I can get it back in, I have a feeling its going to be a bitch.

I hooked up a cordless drill once I got the cluster out, and sure enough the speedo registered the speed. I moved the car with the cluster out and the metal portion inside the green thing didnt move at all. So I'm guessing its either the cable or the drive gear inside the tranny.

Omg stock headunit from 1987. It still works, but the tape player doesn't work I was told. Previous owner was a smoker. I did a lot of vacuuming and wiping up in this car so far. I've spent the most time cleaning it. when I got the shifter boot off there was TONS of ash in and around the ashes. Had to get the vacuum cleaner back out.

Just about got the cluster ready to come out and disconnect the power cables. Notice anything weird? Yeah the gas gauge displays a full take at all times. Even with the cluster sitting on my desk it shows as full. I don't think this is the fuel sending units fault because if the tank is low, the low gas light will alert me. Anyone have advice on what I can do to remedy this problem?

This is the end of the speedometer cable. It does not move at all when the car is in motion. It must either be the cable or drive gear. I'm hoping for cable because I don't want to mess around with the tranny and its far too cold to try to get up under the car.

Cluster fully removed. It was really dirty back there. Lots of wiping up had to happen.

Here is the gas gauge displaying full. Do you think I should just open it up and see if the gauge is stuck?

Also I feel like I'm at the doctors and have a symptom I don't want to tell the doctor. It spits coolant out of the overflow tank. The heating also stopped working. I drove it home 70 miles 1.5 weeks ago and there was no issue with overheating, and the cabin heating worked fine. I had the car warmed up, the needle was in the middle, and the cabin would not blow warm air no matter the temperature setting or what. Could this be caused by low coolant. the overflow tank is nearing empty when I checked. I haven't run the car since because I haven't added coolant. I'm worried this is a BHG issue.

 

[Smartparts]

So now its after Christmas, and I've found 2 more problems. I thought I had the power steering solved(somewhat) but it looks like it does drip enough to wear down the reservoir enough to make me do something about it. I peeked under the car to snap a quick picture and didn't like what I saw.

And also now the battery has died twice on me. I'm not 100% familiar with these cars, but can anyone tell me if its normal for the car to beep when theres no key in the ignition and the drivers side door is open, or if its normal for the ring around the ignition to be illuminated when there is no key in it. I think that is what is draining the battery

 

[mk3-4-me]

ya the green light will be on when the door is open, or the lights r on. to show where the key hole is.

 

[Smartparts]

ya the green light will be on when the door is open, or the lights r on. to show where the key hole is.

I believe mine is illuminated even when the door is shut. It also beeps when the door is open, and theres no key in the ignition. Hell it doesn't even need the key to start it. I think thats a problem on its own that I need to solve as well. Anyway, I bought a multimeter so I'm going to check for parasitic draws on the battery. Sadly we got hit hard with a blizzard yesterday and its been way too cold to work on it.

 

[wills_jdm]

there is a button on the ignition area just to the right of where you put the key in. if you turn off the car and hold the button as you turn the key all the way to the left it should solve your problem. most old cars are like that. if it doesnt solve it i have no clue lol

 

[bioskyline]

wow a stock deck! i got one of, they be a heavy sucka.

is that a rag wrapped on the ps lines?? time for a new line id say

 

[Smartparts]

wow a stock deck! i got one of, they be a heavy sucka.

is that a rag wrapped on the ps lines?? time for a new line id say

Straight off the showroom floor. And yeah from what I can tell it's a rag or some sort wrapped on the lines. I guess what I should do first is clean it up and see if I can tell where the leak is coming from. its either the lines or the rack. I'm hoping its the lines.

As for the lock, Thanks Wills_jdm. I didn't know what that button did. As you can see in my picture here:

that the ring is illuminated even though the key isn't in the ignition, and the door is closed. Could that be enough to drain my battery. It doesn't happen over night, but it takes a few days of it not starting.

 

[Donnie]

SI guess what I should do first is clean it up and see if I can tell where the leak is coming from. its either the lines or the rack. I'm hoping its the lines.

You can be about 80% sure it'll be the lines. I've had three or four come to me, either at work, my own, or acquaintances/friends, and every last one has been the pressure line.

 

[Devin LeBlanc]

yeah the key is still in the on position.. when you insert the key, press the button on the side in as well and turn it to the lock position as well..

 

[xzeror]

my n/a would randomly have the battery die, my dad one night saw that my lights inside the car were on i thought they didnt work bc everytime i opened the doors they never turned on. I now keep the switch on the off position so it doesnt turn on when the doors open and the battery hasnt died on me since.

 

[BlackDevilSupra]

Seems like you've got the means to properly evaluate the car and remedy the obvious mechanical maladies. I think it's best to just yank the engine, remove oil pan to inspect and R&R the bearing, then replace every gasket. Also, clean engine bay. Since the engine is out, then you can easily evaluate the situation with the steering rack.. You'll then have a good foundation and familiarity with the vehicle going forward.