Not the wastegate and no, I'm not pissed, but trying to troubleshoot and repair something when you have NFI how it works is a recipe for frustration. Why put yourself through that? Better to just bite the bullet and pay somebody. Just sayin'...
-10 in hg of vacuum after rebuild. Boost leak, or vacuum leak?
- Thread starter Suprajay
- Start date
Well I appreciate your opinion but you will never learn if you don't figure it out yourself. Sorry but I'm not going to just give up and take it to someone. Then I didn't learn anything. So appreciate your version of help and advice but its not what I'm looking for.
I see. Well, good luck and keep at it. I suspect you'll find the solution will turn out to be simple.
Ok so I took off that vacuum line and capped it at the intake. no change in vacuum. I think I'm just going to buy a fog machine and see what happens.
Most probable cause, esp given its just been rebuilt, is the timing is off.
You need to first validate that the timing pulley has not slipped. That is done with a chop stick in the sparkplug of cylinder 1 or equivalent. Then check the cam pulley alignment is correct using the marks on the pulleys (and the pulley dowel pin is in the right hole). Finally check the ignition timing (which has been done I gather).
You need to first validate that the timing pulley has not slipped. That is done with a chop stick in the sparkplug of cylinder 1 or equivalent. Then check the cam pulley alignment is correct using the marks on the pulleys (and the pulley dowel pin is in the right hole). Finally check the ignition timing (which has been done I gather).
Ignition timing has be checked. which hole is the dowel pin supposed to be in? I have them both in the center hole.
3p is correct(in my opinion) of steering you towards the cam/crank timing.
The tsrm tells you to rotate the motor by hand through a minimum of two revolutions, after setting cam timing.
Then you recheck it. This is because it is possible for slack in the belt to allow a cam to jump a tooth, or the slack itself
To mask improper cam timing.
The tsrm tells you to rotate the motor by hand through a minimum of two revolutions, after setting cam timing.
Then you recheck it. This is because it is possible for slack in the belt to allow a cam to jump a tooth, or the slack itself
To mask improper cam timing.
jetjock;1941989 said:
It's what I was getting at. Barring induction leaks and the effects of elevation ignition timing wouldn't cause that low a vacuum. In fact only a very few things will.
Cam/crank timing is my guess too. Probably one of the cam pullies are a tooth off. Follow tsrm for proper alignment at TDC of no. 1 piston. Good luck.
I bet you have one small vacuum line off someplace. I had done some work on my car and once done i was only showing 10" hg at idle. Thought i had checked everything. Then the other day going through spped trap and the the cruise control would not engage. Then on the way home the light bulb lit up. Maybe the low vacuum was from clutch master install not the other stuff done to engine. Bingo knocked off a vacuum hose going down to cruise accuator. Now 20" hg. Good luck. Just my 2 cents.