i will second that none of those bearings look bad enough to be rod knock.
whats with the green dye? keep things that dont belong in your engine out.
you can do whats called a bearing roll in to get those mains. you need to take one cap off at a time and using a screwdriver or other pointy...
that would be a restrictor fitting which is needed. you can buy different sized ones, maybe you had one that was too small.. did you pre-oil the turbo really good when you put it on there? I hope so.
that explains the smoke, there is too much oil going to your turbo so it has to go somewhere.
been there, my 1jz didnt come with a map sensor and it took a few months to come from toyota.. so that whole time all I could do is idle my car, it would idle fine but the second you try and rev it, it stalls.
and wear some good welding gloves.. thats how I always do it at work to replace manifold gaskets, I am a heavy truck mechanic. be careful, wiggle the bolt tight then loose a few times to avoid snapping the stud off in the head.
another usefull tip is to get the engine nice and hot before you do any exhaust manifold/turbo removal.. it makes it alot easier. some careful use of the torch will help you alot, but dont go burning anything important.
ride with those tires for a while and watch them for uneven wear. tires will tell you everything you need to know about your alignment, frame, bearings and tire pressure if you know how to read the signs.
the door jamb number is by the factory engineers, true. but that is for the original tires...
2 different cars, 2 different autometer gauges same thing. nothing is loose all connections are good its been double checked and been completely redone twice.
i even isolated the gauges onto their own circuit with the own grounds. routed the signal wire away from any possible interference, and...
at this point I think you might be 50% crazy, but when its finished and covered I would be willing to lower than number significantly. I cant really visualize what its gonna look like done so we will have to wait and see.
yeah I would definately get into a good sized hockey fight with that guy, and spread the word so that if he ever tries to go there again the same thing happens.
sure anything can be done. you would need one big turbo and some sort of adaptor to stack the turbo up that high.
it would totally ruin the best part of the supra though, the bodylines at the front! dont go raping a car to put turbos through the hood, it will look like shit!
are you trying to make a 1pc driveshaft? is this for a swap you're doing?
yes any u-joint can be seperated, there are 4 clips to remove, then you can use a big hammer and a vice to pound it apart, or a special u-joint press tool. you usually have to beat it like a red-headed step child to get...
http://www.toyotareference.com/
I like the colors:
8J3(blue metallic)
8E3(dark blue pearl) or 8G5- both are listed same color name different code. dont know if they are the same
749 (teal metallic)
has anyone seen any supras with any of those colors with red interior? would those colors...
what about driving in the rain, do you ever do that? sneeze and you could be facing the wrong direction!
for a street car, its just not good. what exactly are you trying to accomplish?
i have the maroon interior color, current colour is super white. how bad does maroon interior look with other colors of paint? white is kind of boring, and I dont like black cars either. Maroon is okay looking, so is red. I want to stay with a factory supra color, I really like the turquoise...
thats the thing its not just the weld that breaks. I daily drive a locker in my pickup, I got used to it, but I also drive it like a truck not like a sportscar. welded rear just plain is not a good idea, do it proper the first time and get an lsd or rebuild a worn one. sure you can get used to...
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