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are you serious? dont weld it if its gona be street driven! it will kill your tires, and break loose even easier on corners. you would think it wouldnt do that, but since both tires are being forced to turn the same speed, and one over a longer radius, something has to give be it your tire...

ive done that before too, but for safety I borrowed a door mat and put that over the spring and stood on it, just incase she went! wasnt such a smart idea, it did end up shooting the top cap across the driveway but worked.. those were the days.

what did you end up doing with that blower? rarest thing I have found(supra related) is a r154 tranny. we dont have much here in canada, its rare just to find a complete car that hasnt been pilfered.. i guess its because all the old toyotas here rusted out and were disposed of about 10 years ago.

oh so now I get it, thats how some guys can do a start on a supra in 15 minutes, they already have a wrench installed back there where its hard to reach!

very good thanks.. should be safer this way, since you dont have to remove a spring loaded death trap, then compress another one on there. the tension of the spring is slowly and safely released.

holy smokes I think billy-bob and his cousins worked on your car. only weird thing I found in my car was when I first removed my dashboard to do the heater core there were some roaches under the center console!! I knew the car was smoked in, some burn marks on the seats. also found a few 8mm...

was out in the garage working on some other stuff, and thought of something. instead of removing the strut, and then using a spring compressor to compress the spring, then removing it from the shock why not: undo the top nut of the shock with weight still on the wheels, so the spring is free...

unless you drove it around like a granny the torque would have twisted it out I would say.. thats very strange. Have you been sleepwalking/wrenching in the garage lately?

we know we know, its frowned upon! but what is worse, driving and having it look like some sort of donk until I get my proper rear springs? or just grit my teeth and do it, I know its not proper!

heres the situation: I know the downsides of cut springs, they lower the spring rate, are for cheap honda drivers etc.. I found a pair of eibach sport springs with koni yellow shocks at the junk yard, front only which I installed on my car. Now the rear looks too high, and I don't intend on...

update: i used some rust convertor liquid in a bottle from canadian tire. its this green gooey stuff, but the main ingredient is phosphoric acid. after I did the wire brushing I left it for a few days, and the pits started to re-flash, so for $5 I thought I would try it out.. Its a bit messy and...

I know about the mixing of catalyst/reduced to paints to activate them, but somewhere in my great search of the internet I read that they can take that kind of primer or paint, mix it and put it in a can. didnt say anything about how long it would last for, or if they still even do it. I need...

was thinking some more(still too cold to do bondo or painting of any kind) about gettin the job done. I will need to rent a compressor, no money to buy one. I was thinking to make things easier, is there really any reason not to have the urethane primer mixed at the paint store and put in a...

got yet another question for you. If im repaing those holes in the wheel wells with fiberglass and resin, should I just put it on over the bare metal or prime(or por) the metal first, rough it up, then glass over it.. basically will there be problems with moisture being trapped between the glass...

oh damn its called POR, ive been calling it PQR for how long now?? jeeez I find it difficult to choose products for rust, because its going to come back no matter what, and there is so much sales pitch stuff and snake oils, really I believe its all the same in the end.

is tremclad rust primer good for doing the inside of my wheel wells? then coated with asphalt rubber coating? Where can I buy pqr-15 or similar, I live in calgary right now, so we have NAPA, MOPAC, auto value, bumper to bumper, maybe another one I'm forgetting, unfortunately no LORDCO which is...

http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=89783 link to pics of the rusty scary part of the car that needs to be fixed! and some more. I know its a pretty cramped garage, gonna have to paint the bumper covers seperately(car is too long), and get anything that doesnt need to be in...

sure i have some pics in another thread, also will put some more up later of bare metal being bumped out... another age old debate: prime bare metal then apply bondo, or just bondo over metal? I have always done bondo over metal, but it seems 50/50 both sides have their arguements... gonna try...

one problem I have found with the rattle can primers, is identifying what they are, IE primer for enamel paint, primer for urethane. If I've done my homework, enamel and laquer can use the same primer, but urethane is different, can only use epoxy primer. I havent found any primer at the store...

well im pretty sure that toyota didnt use laquer paints, so am I right about the acrylic enamel being the stock paint? what about the repainting with enamel or urethane? so my steps to prepare would be: sand the existing paint, fill scratches and chips, strip the rear quarter with unknown...