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http://www.supraforums.com/forum/showthread.php?520338-GE-vs-GTE-head-quot-squish-quot/page2&highlight=2JZ-GE+head+flow Here is another good read. I think the consensis is that both cylinder heads will get the job done.

Lol. You can search it if you want. It has been proven on Supraforums.

Great numbers!! Looks like your right at the limit for the pump and injectors.

The cylinder head on the GE actually flows slightly better than a GTE. Not sure how much the GE manifold restricts.

I don't think you have to worry about the stock head chocking it too much. A good turbo with a big A/R (like you have) can make up for a stock head with stock cams. Not to mention all the boost and timing you can run with E85. I say 600rwhp by 24psi.

I will probably be there.

You could pull the motor yourself and then dissassemble it. Then you could take take it to a machine shop and have them rebuild it with most of your stock components. If I remember correctly, it cost me about $1200 for the shop to do all the machine work, balancing and assembly of my 7M, and...

It won't be too small, but it cause more backpressure and not be as efficient as a .82. I have seen old PT67's go over 700rwhp with a .68.

From my experience, anything under 500rwhp, the stock ecu is the way to go. With an AFC or similar piggyback it's super easy and consistant. Just don't go crazy with the boost. I usually ran around at 17psi (about 400rwhp) with pump gas. For 24psi and the track, I just threw in some C16 and the...

I made 511rwhp years ago on a Stock 7M with very little effort (stock ecu). It was just a stock rebuild with a cometic headgasket. Would of pushed it further but ran out of fuel.

A good machine shop can fix it properly. Just be prepaired to spend $$

My advise would be to sell the NA supra and get a turbo supra. Then simple BPU mods will get you 350 hp. The easiest route would be Lex AFM, used AFC, intercooler hard pipes/bov, boost controller, full exhaust. For 350rwhp, a walbro pump and a CT26 upgrade will be needed. I have no idea why...

/\Hmmm. Maybe there was a jump that temperarly changed my AFR's. But if that was the case, I could easily tune it out with my AFC or AEM. My AFR dyno plots ALWAYS looked the same when I had the AFC tuned on the same settings.

I've run the walbro without the 12v mod and with the stock wiring for about 7 years. No problems with tuning at all.

You don't really need to rev it out to 7500 rpms with a JT62 turbo. (I'm guessing that's a bolt-on turbo to the stock exhaust manifold). It's not like it's a huge turbo with a big A/R that spools very late. Anyway, I think all you really need is better valve springs. I reved my built 7M to...

Just get a used AFC. That's all you need with a stock turbo.

When you get over 350-400rwhp, traction really starts dropping off, especially the colder it is outside. I recently switched to 285 Nitto DR's in the rear. What a huge difference.. I can actually put all the power down in first gear now on a semi warm day.

Or smoking?

Depends.. I started going a little lean at 511rwhp.

I agree that Methonal is NOT a bandaide. It can not only be used to raise boost (and timing), but it can be used for safety since there can be knock even at fairly low boost if it's hot enough. I've used plenty of race gas for dyno pulls and the drag strip. It gets real old filling and draining...