Search results

Hey guys. My hatch glass was destroyed a few weeks ago and I've turned myself in knots trying to find a replacement. The nearest replacement on car-part.com is something like 300 miles away. Even that's not a given, every time I've called a yard that supposedly has a window, it's either 1)...

Was cruising car-part.com looking for some hatch glass when I stumbled on this: A 1991 Turbo 5 spd Targa with shaved side moldings. I don't spend a lot of time here anymore, but 5 years ago people would kill for this, and now it's junkyard fodder. WTF guys...

The problem with the Colorado trans is that it puts the shifter way too far forward for Supras. I also saw the other day that you can bolt a JDM Soarer shift housing to the solstice version and eliminate the remote shifter. It would still be too long for a Supra, but could be just right for...

Well shit. Wish I knew about that a few years ago. Here's an ebay ad that shows the yoke mate http://www.ebay.com/itm/2011-2012-2013-2014-Ford-Mustang-GT-1-Piece-Aluminum-3-5-900-HP-DriveShaft-Shop-/221677965077?fits=Model%3AMustang&hash=item339d094f15&vxp=mtr

Wow! Good on driftmotion for putting stuff out for this swap. Now if we could get a bolt-in shifter housing, the R154 would be obsolete.

In theory the ~1.75 should be sufficient, as you only need to account for compliance in the trans mount and diff mounts. As opposed to a live axle where you need to account for the entire rear suspension travel. Nonetheless, I was not comfortable doing this either, and wound up switching to a...

Wow, good find!

No to both.

HPTuners works with the stock MAF and PCM (different acronyms, same thing). Idle tuning is pretty easy, as is closed loop. What's hard is changing the diameter of the maf tube and the MAP scalar.

Ok, so we already know that limequat's welds look like shit. The question is, does it hold boost now. Well... Here's a HPTuners histogram that shows peak manifold pressure in KPA for each point of the spark map (RPM vs Load): So...the numbers are a bit small, but -yeah- at least one of...

I hung a bracket down from the block that retains the boost tube. It's a single mount point on each end, so there's plenty of play, but not in the direction that would allow the tubes to separate like they were before. Here's the attachment on the boost tube, which I now realize looks a lot...

OOOOOHHHHH.... Aluminum v-bands with an o-ring seal. Good to 75 psi. Yes, this is what I need. http://www.amazon.com/3-5-Aluminum-V-Band-Clamp-Rings/dp/B004FHU5ZO

Thanks guys! te72, it is 10.3:1 compression. Do you think v-bands would hold boost? What the bung and bracket setup you mention?

So, a new (professionally) welded aluminum oil pan is on the Supra. I welded up the up-pipe to manifold connection and put her all back together again. Been fighting laziness and a dead battery. I fired it up and it was running rough. Really lean. Trying to tune it last year with the hole...

I welded the up-pipe flanges to the manifold flanges...

I think mine was an 88 or 89.

Mill those 3 lips off so that you have a flat surface and then drill in a toyota 4x4 pattern.

Manifolds:

Turbo's off again:

My steering intermediate shaft has been disconnected for a while now. I had it off to drop my crossmember. It has now fused itself in the fully collapsed position. Is there a trick to coaxing the turtle out of its shell?