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Rebuilding my W58 transmission

I used RedlineGoods.com for my armrest, shift boot, and e-brake boot. They make the stuff in Poland. The fitment and quality is very good. They also offer different color leather and stitching for an original or a custom look. They just did not have a dashboard option for the Supra. I didn't...

Guys, I just found some interior restoration pieces for sale on eBay. This company in UK is making leather dashboards, center consoles, door panels, and other interior pieces. Here's a link to the dashboard...

Based on the smoke in the cabin, I think you fried something. Since the 'DOME' fused circuit is the problem, look on the modules within that circuit. The convenience module, located behind the main fuse panel, is a stong candidate.

Look, I'm not trying to start a flame war or nothing like that, I'm sharing my experience. The O2 sensor does not set the value for tail pipe O2 emissions, it is used to set final fuel trim. That Botched (Bosch) sensor was not sending a proper signal, but also did not set the CEL. The ECU...

Also, replace the O2 sensor with a Denso brand only. I tried a Bosch O2 sensor, but had to pay a mechanic $279 to tell me it wasn't working right. He put in a Desno sensor straight from the dealer and it immediately passed. It passed for 6 more years until I grandfathered out of emissions here...

I'm sure you know the drill, but I would send a certified, return receipt letter to the shipping address to let the buyer know that charges were reversed and you cannot ship until payment has been made. Also, since the charges were reversed, only a money order or cashier's check can be accepted...

My front speakers are some 4" generics that have been there for 10 years, but still sound good. I'm talking to my audio man about replacing them with 4" same make as the rears. I'm not running an amp right now. My head unit is a Pioneer FH-X700BT. I got it mainly for the Bluetooth connectivity...

I put 5-1/4" speakers in the factory boxes. The factory boxes are ported bass boxes. I showed it to an audio specialist I know, and he told me that if I put 5-1/4" speakers in and seal it up good, the sound would be phenomenal. He wasn't kidding! I saw how much open space I had with the 4"...

<<deleted>> Oops, didn't notice the composite part.

I got a gas smell from my canister that was driving me nuts. Checked all my vacuum lines and found out the purge line was cross-connected to a non-vacuum relief line. I hooked it back up properly and the smell went away. If the BVSV is not working, by-pass it and plug the purge directly to the...

Hard to get to. I wound up using a 1/4" socket wrench with an extension to tighten the clamp. There are also two 90-deg PITAs at the thermostat housing too. But, I found that pulling the distributor helps BIG TIME.

An oiled air filter should not damage a vane-style AFM like the 7M engines have. The oil will contaminate a fine-wire AFM found on a lot of late model cars and skew the sensor readings. Unless you have some sort of conversion to a fine-wire AFM on your Supra. I agree with the O2 sensor 100%. My...

Well, I went on the hunt for the last of the voltage drop this weekend. I wound up re-wiring the wire between the fuse block and the battery. I found the fusible link wire for the battery connection was trimmed to about 2 inches long! Everything I've read is this wire should be no shorter than 9...

I looked at the wiring diagram, and think you need to rethink the wiring you're planning. Run the alternator wire directly to the battery. Run a jumper from the 1/2" lug to the battery to the 3/16" as shown in the diagram. Run the large wire from the other switch 1/2" lug to the starter, and run...

I also clicked the link and found a 300A continuous switch, 2,000Amp intermittent (PN 74102). I think I found your Moroso 20A switch (PN 74100), but the description clearly says for non-alternator applications. You could go with the the JEGS PN 10305. It is rated at 125A continuous and cheaper...

A proper voltage drop test should have the suspect circuit loaded up and the engine running at 2000 rpm. I'd turn on everything, stereo, lights, electric fans if installed. Run it all full blast and run the test again. That's how I found the voltage dropping on mine across the fusible links...

Run a voltage drop test. I had a similar problem with a voltage drop from the alternator to the battery, and managed to isolate it to bad fusible links and connectors.

I was originally losing 1 whole volt on the positive side. Now, without the jumper, I'm losing .65V on the positive and .135V on the negative side for a total of .785V loss. That is way above the .5V loss limit that all the references I could find say should be the limit. So, I feel the effort...

Ok, I had some time this weekend to really dig into it. I found an excellent video on Youtube for a voltage drop test. My first test confirmed a whopping 1 volt drop between the alternator and the battery with full load on (all lights, wipers, and stereo). All this loss was on the positive side...