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I could believe the spec twin messing up the synchros, they're quite heavy even if you have the lighter pucks. I also spun to 7600, so that was also a thing. The problem I had was my 1-2 shift was 1.5-2.5 seconds throughout the weekend, according the the ECU logs. Felt bad like you wouldn't...

Guess I should update my time to the last best time I ran before going to the 2J. The final setup: 7M JE/Eagles BC 272 Cams +1mm Ferrea valves, port work to suit Supertech dual valve springs HKS Stopper Spec Super Twin Built R154 Dahn Automotive 3.5" AL driveshaft AEM, E-85, 31lbs on my 67mm...

Yup, even if you rewire the harness for sequential injection. Been there, done that!

As I said many times when I still had the 7M... "She thinks my tractor's sexy!" IMO totally normal sounding from what I can hear. Get big cams and it gets even louder.

The resistors aren't there to trick anything in the computer, it exists to protect the drivers within the ECU. Make absolutely certain that there is a resistor in-line with the injectors or you will destroy your AEM and be very sad.

Borderline, yes. Just don't try to sell it here in this thread. Make a FS thread with all the proper info and see if anyone bites. That said, open diffs are generally not sought after at all. I think craigslist may be a better, but don't expect it to move quickly.

Won't help your current situation, but a 92-96 Camry 4-cyl throttle cable is just a junkyard away and lines up perfectly with a mk3/JZ setup.

I grabbed a non-vvti one and it works just fine. Mind you, you'll have to get the intake manifold injector adapters for whatever size injectors (11mm/14mm) you have. Admittedly, I am using a USDM upper intake and throttle body, so there may be a difference if you're staying all OEM.

There is a coil setup/dwell wizard which has the Toyota Smart coil specs already input- iirc its 1NZ/2AZ coils in aem, but they all work the same. I'm guessing you have the harness wired for sequential ignition? If so, your firing order is a bit funky. What I'd do is set partner cylinders to...

OP hasn't been on in over a year, so I believe this thread has served it purpose. Unfortunate it didn't materialize, but that's the way it goes. Link to ERA's new discussion thread (not related to this group buy in any way)...

So get a little one! Mine is a 3.5" one that's pretty close the the OEM tach in size. I too, didn't want the giganto-tacho so I got the lil guy.

The AEM can output a tacho signal, but I never got it to work on my original 1991 Turbo Tacho. I bought an aftermarket (Autometer) unit that does the job pretty well.

Same answer- using an oscilloscope. Lots of signals are too fast for any ordinary meter to pick up on, which is why scopes exist. Now the fun part is determining what is a good and bad signal.

If you select front windshield defrost setting on the Climate control, the A/C will automatically run as well to speed de-fogging.

M10x1.0 threads, double flare like normal brake lines, not entirely sure on the line size (ID/OD), though.

The only companies I know that make dog box gearsets for the R154 are PPG (12k) and PAR (5k), both of which are in Australia. I think I may have seen that page at some point, but nobody knew how strong they were, nor the machining quality. Was more of a feeler iirc.

IMO, the bellmouth downpipes are a better option. I had significant trouble trying to control boost when I had a DDP, which was alleviated when I borrowed a friend's bellmouth. They're also much easier to install and remove than the DDP's, something I did many, many times.

I'm not sure about Canadian models, but the only difference to my knowledge in US spec MK3 supras is whether it has Progressive power steering or not. To tell if you have PPS, check the steering rack for a solenoid/2-wires coming from the control valve area. Check your rack, my guess would be...

Hey I haven't updates this for another while. Time to drop a bomb! The 7M is sold. I will never be using an R154 again I am going to stick with a manual transmission. The Gray body is being stripped and parted in favor of the new Maroon Shell. It seems my Supra life is being turned upside...

I own a P-trim spec twin and it held all the power I could throw at it (~800whp, ~700wtq). It did no-lift shifts, burnouts, drag launches, and everything without fail. The things I didn't like about it were the unsprung discs, they made for rough street driving. It also has an Aluminum...