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this is what watts performance gave me when he decked my block for me.

yes im almost positive the bypassed clutch switch will do it.

idk, i drive with the top off 80% of the time and chassis flex doesnt bother me much. not saying i dont want targa bars, i do...but its not a huge concern to me.

if its the champ toyo in houston ask for ken

that sucks, those were the first thing i trashed while installing my DM spacers...bummer

free flowing exhaust mostly helps with spool time, less turbo lag. the turbo's maximum boost output has nothing to do with exhaust after it (only with a stock wastegate setting). the turbo wastegate actuator is set to a precise pressure to start to open and fully open to keep from over boosting...

are you guys running rk bushings with solid spacers or just bushings?

after a quick search, looks like you saved a ton with the cobra kit. you get gaskets for the intermediate plate (not sure if its good for clearances) and i bet your output seal is correct unlike my marlin kit. had to spend another 10 bucks at vatozone for my correct timken seal. also id like to...

congrats!!! i just got done with the exact same upgrades! did you do the marlin rebuild kit? and the marlin bearing retainer too? i think marlin 1st gear is an understood upgrade anytime the trans is split.

^^^^+1, leave it for the 240 and 4x4 guys

youll almost for sure need an air impact...and a good one at that. PLEASE dont try a torch. you can try to "impact" your breaker bar with a good size hammer and sometimes its enough to crack it.

dude, it comes with the r154...1j/2j swap potential. the guy wanting to buy it prob has one just laying around and thats why he wants it so bad.

i didnt mean to make this a pissing contest. ofcourse oil will help seal the rings and increase the number. but when you see a 20psi jump all im saying is i wouldnt rule out the rings being bad.

maybe its just me, but imo a 20psi jump isnt so normal. record your numbers and carry on with the leakdown procedure.

agreed it looks more like its bent than rust. id lay each piece out on a towel and tap out the low spots if possible. couldnt hurt to try if you have the tools. id search up on body dent removal, the process is going to be similar to the hammer/dolly method.

oh, im very serious. i was gonna do r12 but junk yard wasnt all that bad to me tho. i had to swap out my clutch from my other comp but all is very well. "only" $200 isnt "only" when you just spent over a grand on a trans build, lol

what do the compression numbers do with a teaspoon of oil down the holes? if your numbers get dramatically higher then you have bad rings. you "could" have leaking valves in the head, or maybe someone did a bad valve clearance job. the way to check this is with a leakdown test (compression...

thanks for the reply nonetheless. off to loop12 and davis/jefferson to junk yard heaven now. im not too optimistic but theres a guy in indianna thatll sell me one 75 shipped, i just want one quicker than that if i can help it.

the thought crossed my mind...good for winter maybe? im 30/70 on this, one side i think its a cool/unique idea and on the other i think its the dumbest fucking concept...just remove the top, thats why its there. im all for custom stuff but i can only imagine how weak that top is now...and if he...

you dont happen to have a spare compressor laying around? im looking for one locally but dont wanna buy a brand new one just yet (tapped out on my trans build at the moment)