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If there is oil it could be oil that's accumulated in the IC or in the intake manifold from a small leak from the turbo, excessive PCV gases and oil vapor (possibly due to worn or bad rings), or worn valve stem seals. You might as well do a compression test too and try to knock the big...

You'll need to look at these: http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TEWD/MK3/manual.aspx?S=Main&P=038 http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TEWD/MK3/manual.aspx?S=Main&P=122 and possibly: http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TEWD/MK3/manual.aspx?S=Main&P=090 Do note that the wiring diagrams...

The RTV isn't a big deal by the allen screws, it's not going to go anywhere as long as both surfaces are clean and you give it time to cure before you torque it down... nothing actually flows across it. ;) Gasket material is fine as long as it seals well.

Do an acidity test on the coolant (a pH test actually) to find out if exhaust gases are getting into the cooling system... could always be the start of HG problems. Excess fuel can create whitish smoke at low loads as it spreads in the open air much more rapidly. Do you have a wideband? If so...

Could you be more specific? What precisely are you asking about?

Don't forget the clutch switch or neutral start switch and the starter disable for the alarm. http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TEWD/MK3/manual.aspx?S=Main&P=038

Not at all. The heater control valve routes coolant through the heater core even when the A/C is on. It only closes the valve when the A/C is set to the maximum. There is valving INSIDE the car to prevent air from moving through the heater core and thus heat up the outcoming air. Most cars...

Add a turbo... that'll quiet it down a fair amount. I don't recommend straight through resonators which only use a perforated tube and packing as a damper. If you want to prevent flow restrictions AND quiet things down you need to look into a resonator which uses technology like a Helmholtz...

Stock location... except that it's several inches shorter than the stock muffler. I'll try to find the part number for you later. I'll edit this post with it. EDIT: Borla ProXS Muffler P/N 40358 2.5" in and out. Center/Offset.

Start by verifying that all of your vacuum lines are routed properly and that there are no leaking lines. Personally, I would just replace them all so i could be sure in the future that they're going to be in good shape. A vacuum leak can also cause the roaming idle, but I'd look at the TPS...

Props for the effort involved. I'm anal as hell about doing what I want with certain projects as well. I would personally have gone with the AutoLoc and removed the mechanical auto up and down components for smooth auto action across the board... but everyone' got their own style. I probably...

85 (R+M/2) + 17.5ºBTDC = :D I am in Denver, so altitude is how I get away with 85. I don't imagine I'd need anything higher than 87 (worst case scenario 89) to keep things running strong without issues at lower altitudes though.

Well, I suppose how to get the best seal also depends entirely on whether or not it's still coated in rubber or not. ;) If it's not, neither way will make a difference and you'll be wanting to use a little RTV on both sides of the holes the large allen head bolts go through.

I think most that I've seen have the extrusions on top. I believe there's one offset hole toward the back which you can use to line it up... If it's flipped the right way it'll line up with a built up section (can't recall if it's tapped or not).

Nah, probably just curious... but doesn't this really belong in OT?

Think like a nooB.... "Dash lighting" ;)

I may try to make the meet but I've got a few things going on that may keep me from it. I haven't gone through any large tunnels, but going under Speer always gets me some great looks. Personally, I'd rather have a dead quiet car and TONS of power than a loud mean sounding one with barely enough.

I believe it's been covered in all or at least most of the following threads: http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=24962&highlight=dash+lighting http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=46074&highlight=dash+lighting...

Hehe... I've got to say that in the higher RPM and at WOT it sounds pretty mean if you're driving next to a concrete barrier or, better yet, if you're in a tunnel.

100% incorrect. A lack of scavenging can reduce your engine's efficiency as the engine then has to work to push out the exhaust gas. BUT, ANY buildup of pressure in the exhaust plumbing is BAD. It's a common misconception, but the two effects are VERY different. There's a lot more information on...