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ehhh... im not liking the mbc. it'll spike like 15+ at times but the damn thing almost always settles at about 9-10psi. Really about to remove the damn thing and re-shim+T it. Discovered that my passenger side inner tie rod is shot. Shake the wheel and it has excessive play. I suspect the...

ok, was paranoid because my coolant reservoir kept lowering and setting off the radiator light. I've already topped off twice and was fearinga BHG due to the overheating incident two weeks ago. First i tried forcing compressed air into each cylinder individually to see if i see any bubbles...

i've removed my failure lamp box but id prefer it be working right. since they so commonly go bad didn't bother trying to repair mine... got another one but had the same problem till i eliminated it. hope you guys manage to fab up a suitable replacement.

OMG! :drool::bigthumb: made this and its to die for. had to modify the recipe as i didn't have all the ingredients.. substituded the garlic salt w/ garlic powder and salt, and had to leave out the rosemary as i didn't have any but nom nom :icon_bigg wanna try DT's meal from the 24th next :)

i was wondering... is there really all this need to cut open the dashpot? couldn't you just seal up the air inlet between the dashpots filter and the dashpot? further more, couldn't you just put the manual boost controller at the bottom of the dashpot where the air filter would go instead of...

just ordered a pair of Manual Boost Controllers. One to adjust the dashpots idle so the motor will quit stumbling/stalling when my BOV vents to the atmosphere, and the other to modify the boost and not have to mess w/ T's and Shims anymore (im at 15psi btw)

got fed up w/ the heat comming in from the sunroof. got a big peice of cardboard and cut out a lower cover for it, cut out some holes for adjustment and spray painted it in black. pics when i get the chance!

cars still not done... if i had my way every dime i got would go into the car.

cut the front rotors today. got rid of the front end vibration under breaking. also had to tighten all the t-bolt clamps for the IC piping. had a bad boost leak today. premature fuel cut, car lacked power... etc. but yeah. looks ok. sadly back to running 10psi.... thought that the...

sorry ta hear the cat ate ya food! looked good too. loving this thread, just wish i wasn't such a picky eater.

Ok, seems im boosting 18psi again. Cars running hard. Went to the only gas station that i know of here near my house that sells race gas and put 7 gallons of 100 octane. damn thing is $4.99/gallon. Im sure that the $35 dollars didn't fill my tank. Car feels a bit more responsive. I love...

ok, screw proper diag... messed w/ the cps wiring and afm connector and it eventualy started up. the T has me boosting 15psi. wasn't satisfied so i shimmed the wastegate a bit. Still pending road test. Also having an oil consumption issue. Put a quart of 10W30 Lucas Full Synthetic in today...

ok... It started.... My crank attempt followed by the 12 and 24 were following my disconnecting the AFM and CPS/O2 sensor connectors.... Obviously no start after disconnecting the CPS. Reconnected, turned it over for a bit and it started right up...

I'll double check today but I dont have any that i know of. Had the dumb idea to disconnect the EFI fuse thinkin that a trouble code in memory might cause a no start. Didn't check codes first. A while back I seem to have had the same issue. Re-Checked my connections and the AFM was...

ok... in an attempt to try to get the car to boost more than the 13 I managed to get it to boost by shimming the wastegate and installing a moderate sized T I put a bigger T in trying to up the boost. I re-assembled, and went for a road test. Was boosting too much. Going over 20 and hitting...

Ok, so far it seems that adjusting the pushrod fixed my brake issue. I got the bleeder screw for the back right just gotta get a chance to try to get the old screw out and put the new one in and bleed the brakes. T'ed the wastegate again. should be back at 1.5bar (18psi). Gotta save up some...

Just did a search for them on yahoo and got A1 Electrics. Cost like $125. plus shipping. did next day delivery because this was kinda top priority. as far as the code 42 then i gotta check that... Still having problems w/ the brakes. Changed the master cylinder and the pedal keeps getting...

ok, cleared the codes. there are no codes present now. looked around at stuff i messed with and noticed the AFM wasn't properly plugged in. car strarts now. just trying to put on the new master cylinder. UPDATE: Ok, Master Cylinder is installed. Bench bled it but have yet to bleed the...

Well I checked the codes and have the following: 24 - Intake Temp Sensor 34 - Turbo Pressure Sensor 42 - Vehicle Speed Sensor 43 - Starter Signal 52 - Knock Sensor Im pretty sure that the 24 was for me trying to start the motor w/o connecting the AFM. The 34 was from the broken...

Here are the pics of the fan controller. I had an issue yesterday where my Brake Master Cylinder started leaking again. I just replaced it like two weeks ago so i got a replacement. Also had removed the vacuum line w/ the T that i had put on the wastegate for the turbo. Realized why I kept...