So basically I realized with my new turbo setup that running the timing at 0 DEG my car is weaker in the low rpms and less responcive but when the turbo comes on the car pulls alot harder. At 10 deg the engine power is great but the boost does not pull the car as hard. Whats up with this? what...
This is on the fuel rail it appears to be something like a second FPR? It had a green cap on it and there was a small screw inside that seemed to adjust it? the screw fell out and I dont know what the part does or if the screw was some adjustment? Anyone care to explain??? THX! - Eric
Okay when I was running the stock turbo I could rev it up and the dump off would be REALLY loud and driving it would be really loud when I let off (stock turbo with BC at like 15 PSI). I just got a new setup with different exhaust manifold, T66 turbo and 50MM wastegate. For some odd reason now...
Guys, the wire dident just grow out of the harness LOL take one more look please... I riped the coating off to try and trace it down thinking it broke off from the maf wire (because its the same type wire) but they are seperate.. WTF
PS the wire in question is LIGHT GREEN with red stripe the...
im not trying to say your wrong but I would be willing to put money on it that it would fix his problem and it wouldent give him any trouble, im just trying to help out and share my experience with it because I have one
there is nothing wrong with 1 wire alt, many man. use them on there high end vehicles, unless you know more then the engineers that spend years building and researching there vehicles, I have no problem with mine.
*** The solution is VERY easy.. get a 160 AMP 1 wire GM alt, they go for about 130 bucks on ebay. All you do is hook ONE wire to the positive terminal on batt then forget it!! stock is around 60 amps you can get anywhere from 160-200!! Oh make sure you specify serpintine pully and u need to shim...
"P.S. I already know that I'll have to advance my timing to prevent spark knock"
ummm im confused lol what does timing have to do with it? You would retard to prevent knock not advance anyway..
ummmmm..... stick the approprehate sized flat blade screwdriver in (one about the size of the hole) turn it and it will gently scrape the walls and the bottom clean then put a small amount of grease in the cap and your all set.
Maybe im missing something here??? is there something elce wrong...
I dont know why all you guys bash venom injectors, you think just because something is cheaper that means to must be junk, thats rediculous!!! You have no proof that they are poor quality. I have been using mine for quite some time with no problems, they work great. I remember when ppl use to...
I took apart the whole front harness and it keeps running back I cant find where its coming from, the wire is the SAME color as the MAF wire but where it came off of is unknown, it comes out around all the front temp sensors and maf wires. Can somone PLEASE help solve this mystery!!?? it makes a...
Just got the car running a few days ago, I ran the car without any piggy back to see how things went before switching to a MAFT. The car ran extreamly fast at 9PSI with the T66 on stock computer. I was VERY shocked, I will get a dyno sheet once I get my tune and have the MAFT setup but im...
well now im switching to a MAFT but I was using the LEX and its not one of the wires in the connector wait... unless somehow it pulled out underneath the insulating of the harness running to the maf and I cant see it because your right, there is the same color going into the maf connector...
I just did a NA-T in my car. I swaped my turbo car and turbo motor with a N/A block let me tell you guys something. The turbo block is lower compression and the cams are different, stock for stock there is about a 50 HP difference between the 2 based on the motor alone (no turbo) the NA has alot...
its strange I have no idea where its suppose to go but I know if I ground it with ign on I get a click sound... I think it might of been some kind of ground for maf but im not sure
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