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some news. Retarded all map, so max advance is 28* and problem went away but car feels soo slow. I have 3 channel igniter left from Haltech, so how can I convert AEM to it? It is dumb igniter so AEM will be controling dwell as well... But dwell settings look complicated to me =( Some kind of...

:1zhelp: I've got the similar problem right now. Fresh harness and AEM from Gixxer, car fired ok, idles.. Tuned low load a bit... But _sometimes_ something strange happens: during acceleration tacho stops for a moment and then continues to rise.... Like 2300, 2400, 2500.. pause.. 2600...

And one more to remember... Connectiong sensors (MAP) to the same line as actuators (Blow-Off, Wastegate, FPR) is not good idea, cause actuators can make MAP readings unstable. In other words, I'd made separate port for MAP. Even If you don't use it right now, think about future ;-)

Hey Chris! I hope those bugs aren't sitting in your AEM box, cause I'm starting to install it right now :evil2: ..or at least they died during long trip to Russia :sarcasm: PS: Good luck with your MK4

..or vac/pressure line isn't just hooked to WG

Hello guys and girls. I used to tighten crank pulley bolt using "5th gear + brakes" method... But now I have car with automatic transmission... the problem is I _never_ even seen auto cars before... I don't know what I can do and what I can't with this thing... So please give some advices...

I'm with Grim. Tuned Haltech for myself and MAFT-Pro for friend of mine... The first impression after installing MAFT-Pro was "Shit! This thing doesn't need tuning, it already running"... But on the other hand, I don't know what's happening with timing on maft-pro, so I'm a bit scared... PS...

I don't see reason to worry... Your compression is equal, don't stir engine to work! Are you sure compression test has performed right? Charged battery, opened throttle, warm engine etc... PS: Probes AFAIK get slightly lower CR to your engine.

Oil squirters are in all GTE blocks (pre -88 and 88+)... except turbo A maybe. Post 88 blocks have different crank (heavier, smoother and lower redline in stock). And yes.. later blocks are more beefy.

X-man, I see, thank you... But I'm a bit scared because AEM manual says 1.5 Amps per channel... Injector's impedance is 2 Ohms (Denso's) and resistor is 3 Ohms. So we get 2.8 Amps per driver @ 14volts... Isn't it too much?

Thanks man! ... and what about wiring? What ballast resistors are you using for 7,8 and 9 drivers? Or you are hi-imp guy? or P&H?

Some pics... Not pretiest thing, but definately works!

Tune what? Stock ECU using piggy-backs? No, thanks... Tune Haltech E8? I tried, and I'm sure it was not tuning problem. Either E8 went south or problem was just injectors driving related... And morevover, I just tired of Haltech. I am software developer and I know how to create comfortable...

jetjock lol Actually Koyo replacement will be much more expensive... Shipping to RU is not cheap :(

QWIKSTRIKE I removed that sensor for now because running stock ECU till AEM arrives. But I'll try not to forget and grab pictures of sensor tomorrow.

Installed stock ECU, harness, AFM, injectors... Car runs smooth. So it was management problem. AEM time for me. Thanks everybody for help /thread

mobes It has 3 p'n'p injector drives and extra 3 drivers on aux connector (pins 2-10, 2-11, 2-12).

Ok, and what about sequential injection? turbo joe Yeah, very funny.

Hello guys. I've got AEM 1110 from gixxer750, so no more Haltech for me. Does anybody run pnp box in sequential injection mode? How to configure AEM pro for that? What injectors must be enabled (1,2,3 and 7,8,9)? What about injector phasing? Do I need ballast resistor to run extra inj...

Well, I just used screw on top of it. I was thinking that I'll get good AFRs at idle with lower pressure but it actually didn't help. On small injection time and lower pressure engine was working roughly and WBO2 showed richer mixture.